The new Aluminium Scandal 29er from on one / planet x

but the 2.4 Goma’s went up easily

Do I infer that you’re running them tubeless?
I specced the same rubber not really intending to run tubeless but if they go up OK, I might as well.

Yup, a little tight so had to do the trick with an innertube, get it seated, take one side off, re inflate, valve core out, add sealent, re inflate. Then an above average ammount of stans dancing to seal the bead but that may just be because my tape was a bit narrow. So the bead may not be tubeless ready but the tyre itself is airtight.

Weighed the bargain rims, 525g each, scary! Wtb asym i35 are the closest profile i could find and those are 670g!

Good to know. Will ride it for a bit with tubes in anyway as I’ve got no sealant or tape here and it supposedly arrives today.

Just about finished building mine – couple little bits and pieces to tidy up this week then hopefully get out on it at the weekend.

Looking good Jase_MK. I like the amberwall tyres, and the silver stanchions on the fork. I always approve of a fork being de-stickered. Really nice classic Hope brakes too!

Mine will be a de-stickered Reba with silver stanchions. My brakes are kinda classic M988 XTRs (not that old in my mind). Good brakes are good brakes, whatever the age.

That looks stunning!

Wouldn’t be able to ride with a saddle pitched like that though…. :p

Just got the tracking confirmation that the ztto dropper lever is on a plane from china so should be here soon.

Although I think I’ve found a problem, the canyon/brand-x post looks like it needs a barrel on the cable at the post end. The ZTTO lever clamps on the cable. Does this mean it needs brake cable rather than gear cable?

That’s going to be annoying as I’ve got a reel of nice orange SP41 and box of teflon coated gear inners! Not sure what I’ve got brake cable wise any more!

My Ztto is on the way too, though purportedly from Ireland but either way due soon. I also got the Canyon dropper. Going to figure it out when it arrives as it’s my first stealth dropper…

Did your post come with the barrel nut? Dont think mine did but may have got lost in the packageing.

I think so, but can’t remember!

Here’s an orange one. Just arrived in País Vasco. Very impressed with the kit for the money, though it did predictably arrive with a bent hanger! Stock build, specced the 2.4″ Gomas. Having not ridden MTB for quite a few years, it feels absolutely massive.

it did predictably arrive with a bent hanger!

Was it sticking out the box? Did they send you a new one? Mine was sticking out but hard to tell if it’s bent. Dent on bottom of head tube too lol

Nope it’s a complete build so shipped with the mech on. Box looks fine.
Looking at the hanger, it’s scratched up a bit. The mech bolt is also very tight and has stripped the hanger thread slightly, kinda points to the hanger being bent when they assembled it.
The live chat bloke is sending a replacement hanger so all good – frame looks straight so that should fix it.

Straightened the dropout best I could and had a shakedown ride this morning. First thing to fall off was the saddle I hadn’t tightened properly. Rained heavily yesterday so everything was sodden, slippy Basque limestone did nothing for my confidence returning to MTB after years off. Wheelbase 20cm longer than my last bike caught me out time after time, though I did feel far more in control on steep techy climbs, just lacking the leg speed. Clown wheels wanted to roll over everything but I was too nervous to let them, I’ll try again in the dry.
Impressed with everything, GX eagle is nice but I’d like a gripshift, brakes great once bedded in, the fork will probably get better with a bit more use, felt a bit sticky but then I haven’t even checked the pressure.
Pulled the stickers off the wheels and fork, just needs setting up tubeless and maybe treating to a new saddle (bought that Flite in 92…).

Liking the stealth look. Although I did get a whole bag of RockShox stickers so could just go for the opposite look!

Anyone had a problem with the drive side crank almost touching the chainstay? I’ve tried boost and non boost, Shimano and SRAM and they’re all within 2mm. This is a boost NX crank.

Mines perhapse a smidgen better than that (GX), but that might just be the camera angle and frame/crank colour. Have you got the BB spacer on the right side? Looking at the preload collar on mine you could always add a second as theres >2.5mm of thread showing.

Boost shouldnt affect it much as thats chainline not q-factor so Id expect the arms to be similar.

The cranks in the photo are NX powerspline so no spacers or adjustment. Same crank to chainstay dimension as the GX/SX Dub cranks the full bikes come with. Gap measures 1mm. I can’t see them shipping bikes with clearances that tight but I’ll see what Planet X say tomorrow.

What size chainring is that?
What is dimension from bike centreline to the centre line of chainring?

It’s a 32t boost. Centre of BB shell to centre chainring is 53mm.

How does the size of the chainring affect how close the crankarm is to the chainstay?

How does the size of the chainring affect how close the crankarm is to the chainstay?

I suspect brant is off to compare with a built bike in the warehouse – dimensions and chainring/crank arm location to yoke angle / spread.

Max chain ring size is 32t but that’s got nothing to do the crank Arms. I’ll have a look at mine and upload a photo.

I can’t see them shipping bikes with clearances that tight

Unless either the frame or crank flex a lot then clearance is clearance surely.

Is there any reason you couldn’t put a spacer on the BB? I thought most cartridge BB’s still used one to allow for an e-type front mech or chain device.

Might take mine appart later, just looked at the SRAM manual and dont remember the 4.5mm drive side spacer, but do have a 2.5mm bb spacer on there.

How does the size of the chainring affect how close the crankarm is to the chainstay?

The chainring looks to be 50mm from the centreline. Which means it’s 2mm inboard of boost spec. Which means the whole crank is 2mm inboard. Which means the BB axle is the wrong length if I understand Powerspline correctly.

Bottom bracket is 118/73. If they did a longer axle I’ve not seen one. It’s marked 68 etype, 73 std no spacer.  I tried a 2.5mm spacer and whilst there’s more clearance, the nds cup has to screw in a long way to support the nds bearing. Everything should fit fine, chainring to centre is on spec. It’s just odd how the chainstay curves out towards the crank arm where it joins the cast yoke.

Im playing around with my chainline. I currently have a 2.5 spacer on the non drive side and clearance is OK, could be better. Running a triple xt 175 with hope chain ring.

When I threw the bike together I didn’t even measure the bb to see if it needed a spacer.

Just looked on the website and it’s BSA 73mm so doesn’t need a spacer 🤦‍♂️

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The non drive side has plenty of clearance

Pre emptive question whilst on the subject of offsets:

Whats the deal with direct mount chainrings. If they come inline +3 and +6mm. Do I want an inline one if the cranks are already boost, or are the cranks all the same and I want a +3mm (or +6mm) chainring?

Just looked on the website and it’s BSA 73mm so doesn’t need a spacer 🤦‍♂️

don’t think that’s right.
68mm shell, 3 no 2.5mm spacers. two drive side, one non drive
73mm shell, 1 spacer drive side.

The spacer allows for swap out with a BB mounted front mech (e-type), if you remember those things.

Have set mine up with no spacers at present as had read somewhere that was correct for 73mm shell.

Is the general consensus that should have 2.5mm spacer drive side then?

Yes – 73mm has 1no. 2.5mm spacer on the drive side.

No, DUB is different to the older BB’s.

73mm is either 1x 2.5mm spacer (or chainguide) and a 2mm axle spacer, or a 4.5mm axle spacer.

Speaking of, lightest/ cheapest chain guide? I test fitted my old straightline silentguide but it doesnt like the 12s chainline.

No, DUB is different to the older BB’s.

oops, missed that it was DUB.

This is why I bought a complete build for the first time ever; I have no idea about all these new standards. Last time I built an MTB it was square taper triple..
FWIW mine has about 5mm min. clearance between the DS stay and the crank. GX Eagle, DUB etc (whatever that is).

I initially fitted mine with a spacer on either side of the BB but as I’m using boost converters on the rear hub the cassette was to far inboard and the chainline was off. So whipped the spacers off and the chainline was fine and still enough clearance for the crank arm.

How are folk getting on with these? How do they compare to similar bikes? I nearly bought one at £999 which makes it near impossible to pay £1199…

Nobodys got one in a rideable state yet. For an extra £200 they might pack it properly.

How are folk getting on with these? How do they compare to similar bikes?

I’m loving mine – on both riding around local tracks and towpaths etc plus a run around Llandegla it’s just a whole heap of fun to ride. I went for the GX build with Mountain King tyres when the pre-order discounts were live and added a Brand X dropper.

I can’t compare it to other £1k bikes but I do know I like it !

Nobodys got one in a rideable state yet. For an extra £200 they might pack it properly

There are loads of built bikes and happy riders. A few bikes have had some issues but px sorted them straight away.

A few of us are messing around with chainline and crank clearance but we’ve built from frame only.

Personally I’m loving mine. I think it’s great. Exactly what I was after.

like markwsf i have the gx build with mountain kings and have added one of those canyon droppers off ebay . Have also swapped the 740 carbon bars for some 780s i had in the garage and after 1 ride i knew the saddle wasn’t for me . I seem to of got lucky and mine turned up with a straight mech hanger .

It has the same feel , geometry wise , to my flare max so i felt pretty comfortable on it straight away . It feels great on singletrack and feels like a pretty solid all rounder . I wouldn’t mind getting some big rubber  on it .

I really fancied a bird 29er or a solaris , my recent bike buys have been to replace my stolen bikes and i used a good chunk of the insurance money on my flare max so i was after a cheaper hardtail and you dont seem to get a lot for your money these days  so with the presale discount the on-one fitted what i was after .