manufacturers details apparently,had it pointed out to me by building control surveyor
Nothing in the 96 page product guide building control gave me when I asked about it. I did all my U value calculations using Celotex’s online calculators and it was quite happy with 100mm block.
The only possible relevant reference, in the 96 page guide, is: “Please note that where existing walls are subject to the ingress of excessive moisture, it is recommended that Celotex PL4000 should be installed using mechanical fixings rather than a direct bonding technique.”
OK, Thanks to matt_outandabout , I’ve been looking at fixings and have found a whole range which mean I can fix 150mm Celotex + 12.5mm plasterboard direct to concrete with no stud framework:
200 of something similar to these turn up tomorrow (215mm long, 10mm pilot hole in concrete and hammer in).
I’ll try them out in the spare blocks I have first to suss them out. Will post lots of photos. I’ll tape over the heads and then skim over the lot (but probably not this side of xmas for the skiming).
If you mean the plastic circle thing – that stays in the foam, slightly indented, to spread the load. Anything narrower will just pull through as the foam is so soft.
NB Had the PB lined Celotex boards arrive today and I can’t carry them on my own as their weight to strength ratio was too high so my hand pulled through the board when I upped them on one edge to get through gates, leaving a massive hand sized dent in the side of them. Have to be carried by two people to spread the load enough to not deform them. Mrs FF was very helpful and shifted 28 of them with me into the WS. The first two I did on my own and are hand print deformed.
[/url] Plaster Board backed Celotex (PB4050) arriving – two palletes worth![/url] by brf[/url], on Flickr
Go steady with the drill, set a depth guide up or youll be through the other side!
I think my DeWalt SDS is dying, as it really struggles with the concrete blocks, so over drilling is not a concern at the moment. It really didn’t like fitting the fixings for the door – 150mm x M10 was really slowing it down.
Can you put some pics up of those fixing things in action can’t get my head around the collar bit unless it comes off?
As said above, drill with depth stop/guage, hold up insulation board, drill holes (usually 5 per board, then screw in fixing and pop wee insulated end cap over screw head to prevent cold spots in plaster or render.
You drill a 10mm hole 50mm into the concrete, push outer (white) nylon shank into the hole (through 165mm of Celotex) and then hammer the orange rod in to splay the end of the shank and fix it in the concrete.
[/url] Celotex fixing bolts[/url] by brf[/url], on Flickr
To take this thread back to the OP and talk of brickies, I encountered a guy towards the less productive end of the scale today. I teach guitar in a variety of school, the school that I teach at today is having the existing arts block extended. Today there we’re architects/engineers/builder types in assessing the current structure. At some point the builder removed 4 breeze blocks from a wall to check what insulation was in place (at least I think that was why they were removed). At 1.30 I had to teach in the room where the blocks had removed, and a few minutes into my first lesson, the builder (who was a lovely chap!) popped in to replace the 4 blocks that he had removed. I left school at 3 to go and teach elsewhere and he’d only managed to put two in! 🙂
Seriously tho flaps set the drill guide accurately to say 55 mm and clean each hole out thoroughly. You head to the latter stages of the 60mms and you will undoubtedly be requiring some render and more pink paint!!