You jest, but there was an Italian neighbour who sold the house but kept 80% of the garden and then once the new owners had moved in he applied for planning permission for a huge Mausoleum in their garden. Didn’t get approved!
This is for rafter infill (70mm), line walls with 100mm between pillars and cover the floor (100mm). Walls and rafters then get a 50mm/12.5mm plaster board bonded layer, which arrives next week.
Should be quite snug by the time all this is installed…..
some amount of money spent on that structure. better built than some houses, must be some bikes in there, did my garage into a gym,workshop sauna years ago, lucky im a carpenter and cost me peanuts, enjoy though the escapism rocks
I’ve been enjoying following this thread thanks footflaps. I have got planning permission now to pull our old outbuilding down and rebuild it. I am impressed by your roof structure and would like to do something similar, I’m guessing you had a structural engineer to work out size of rsj and do you have any cross beams to make it like an A frame or don’t you need any?
Went passed on the train today and was pleased to see the roof on – but have you painted the render pink or were my eyes decieved ?
Errr yes. But we can’t see the painted sides. We had a sunny weekend, so nipped round to Ridgeons and the trade masonry paint had either Black, White, Grey or something called Suffolk – so we went for that. Turns out it’s Suffolk Pink – we were quite surprised. NB Trade paint tins are all just white with a name on….
In sheltered areas 9″ walls are accepted as being weather resistant,
Pretty much all Victorian houses are 9″ walls, and they are everywhere in the UK – make very nice dry houses…..
however as far as I can remember Celotex shouldn’t be applied to 4″ walls
Utter nonsense. Cellotex is an polyisocyanurate closed cell foam bonded between two sheets of aluminium. Last time I checked, aluminnum wasn’t water soluble and neither is the foam. As for damp pouring through 4″ of concrete, we’re having a rather wet autumn right now, and I’ve got a very dry workshop shell…..
It’s even more nonsense eg when you build a standard cavity wall house, guess what you have in the gap right next to the 4″ wall – a layer of celotex or equivalent….
As for progress, I’ve just finished a 14 hour shift fitting the bloody stuff – horrible to work with – fine dust everywhere. I now have the lung function of a squirrel.
The first phase is 100mm in between the pillars, to make the walls flush. 70mm in between rafters. Then phase 2 is 50mm bonded to 12.5mm plaster board (damp proof board) will go flush over everything. So final depths will be 150mm on 4″ walls. 50mm on pillars. 120mm on the roof and 100mm on the floor.
Jeezo- are you allergic to kryptonite but looking to store your collection somewhere??
I intend to heat the workshop using a candle, so need to get my U value right down……
EDIT plus you seal the whole thing up with aluminium tape to stop any drafts between / around the panels – basically the Celotex forms a vapour barrier. By the time it’s done, they’ll be something insane like 400m of tape on there as there are so many panels in the roof…
Top layer will screw through to the rafters. For the walls I’ll bond it to the brick pillars, the piers are 1.7m apart and the boards are 2.4m long. They’ll bow a bit in the middle, if it looks terrible, I’ll just cut out a middle stud, be pretty quick to fit.
Footflaps – Fisher make wall fixing plugs ( Termofix) for insulation boards that are ace. See if you can get a box – they do them in screw in wood, screw into masonry with rawl-plug attached and hammer fix epoxy. Means you should not have any bowing anywhere.