When you nail a hanger on in the wrong position using sheradized twist nails you will understand exactly why they ask for twist nails! Bastards to get out!!!
When you nail a hanger on in the wrong position using sheradized twist nails you will understand exactly why they ask for twist nails! Bastards to get out!!!
Hmm – so why not use screws? Although I guess twist nails are cheaper and quicker to fit…..
I picked up an engine hoist [just because it was available and free from my FIL] and it’s been remarkably usefull for shifting stuff around the place, especially as it folds away when not in use.
Hmm – so why not use screws? Although I guess twist nails are cheaper and quicker to fit…..
Dunno if it’s the same, but you don’t use screws on boats (wooden structure, suceptible to damp) as the expansion of the wood tends to work them out, whereas barbed nails tend to tighten things up,the head stops if going in further, and the barb/twist stops the other end pulling out, a screw is only held in by the friction stopping it turning.
Strictly speaking they don’t. The Building Regs (paraphrased) just say that the building must stand up to wind and gravity. Approved Document A gives guidance on ways that are ‘deemed to satisfy’ the Regs in that respect, but points out that you can meet the requirement any way you like. The AD gives a list of documents which are approved as guidance, one of which is BS 5268, which I believe says to use twist nails, although I don’t have a copy to hand. In theory you can use anything you can convince the building inspector is at least as good as twist nails. In practice, building inspectors don’t want to be convinced and will tell you to use the guidance, and it’s quicker to give in.
The front door is a set of double glazed french doors (all glass) to let lots of light in when working in it. Behind this, on the back of the return will be an electric steel roller shutter blind, so at night it’s reasonably secure.
The front door is a set of double glazed french doors (all glass) to let lots of light in when working in it. Behind this, on the back of the return will be an electric steel roller shutter blind, so at night it’s reasonably secure.
Expect to have upset neighbours, they are not the quietest of things & you know you will use it every time you leave the building, which will be often as you will find yourself visiting it frequently to begin with 😉
If your getting a RSD on the front make sure you have nylon endlocks not steel ones as they are v noisy in operation and when its windy and rattling round at night it will be grim, nylon help a lot but still not quite.
It will be inside, behind double glazed patio doors and I only envision using it at night. I’m thinking about wiring it up to the burglar alarm so when that gets activated it closes the shutters automatically. The idea being you shut patio door, hit remote fob to arm the alarm and the shutter close automatically. Might be an issue with setting off the PIRs – might need a delay on them. Anyway, that’s all something to figure out when the shell is completed.
You cant wire the RSD upto the alarm as the door will need a continious signal from the alarm. RSD only operate in “deadmans” mode, ie continious pressure on a switch so as not to trap anyone/thing. You can have it operating on impuse by the means of fitting a safety bottom edge or photcell safety beam in line with the door.
Also if you have a power failure or the RSD f00ks up is this your only point of access? if so your snookered.
You cant wire the RSD upto the alarm as the door will need a continious signal from the alarm.
Er, yes you can. Simple adaptor box to power it till it closes. Should take all of 30secs to design and about 30mins to make once I get the bits ordered from RS.
You cant wire the RSD upto the alarm as the door will need a continious signal from the alarm.
Er, yes you can. Simple adaptor box to power it till it closes. Should take all of 30secs to design and about 30mins to make once I get the bits ordered from RS.
Unless you had a control panel, like the one you want to design. Albeit, legally you need to be able to see the door close to the bottom limit as to not create a trapping/sheering hazard, in your own garage it will “be reet”.