light bicycle carbon rims

thisisnotaspoon – Member

Can’t see how it could be corrosion unless the alloys are vastly different?

I was thinking more of normal corrosion causing extra problems- glomming the parts together- rather than electrode stuff from dissimiliar metals. Only thing I can really think of tbh!

Alloy nipples on steel spokes and carbon rims built up without ti-prep or Linseed are likely to corrode at an increased rate vs the same alloy nips on alloy rims. No need for eyeleted rims with DT alloy nipples, just stay away from super light rims with tissue thin spoke beds.

DP.

I’ve waded through a lot of this thread but got lost in the detail so am asking “what should I get?”

My use case is:
* do-anything steel 29er HT
* I ride moderately quick XC through to moderate trail (like say CYB blacks or BPW reds or natural trails), if I ever do a BPW style black or serious rock garden it’s mince-core style, pick your way, not warp speed DH.
* I weight 76kg in my birthday suit, I don’t huck or jump more than a few inches but I’m not a super light rider either
* usually 2.25 or 2.3 Spesh tyres on Rebas but I want to be able to run 2.35 HDs without the silly light bulb profile
* tubeless always

Currently I have a set of Crests and a set of Arch Ex, what I’m looking for is, as someone describes earlier in the thread “Crest weight with Flow width” type of thing, tho wider is OK if it works and fits. Would the 29mm internal width ones come up “too wide” for general use.

What should I get, and just rims (I don’t have great confidence in my LBSs for building unfortunately, I’m more likely to get attitude back for not buying 800 quid Enves than I am a careful and considerate service), or built wheels?

The final aim: one wheel set to rule them all, fit and forget, except for putting the HDs on when I’m off somewhere rocky. My usual riding is Surrey Hills, year round.

What would you get?

Phew! Ta.

that post was much too long and fair beans for it being ignored

so I ask – which 29er set up to get “Flow width and Crest weight”?

ta

so I ask – which 29er set up to get “Flow width and Crest weight”?

These are 5g lighter than a Crest, and 0.6mm narrower than a Flow. These are wider and heavier than a Flow, but obviously much tougher.

I’ve got the former, also a Surrey Hills rider, but the lighter spectrum – on a 19lb carbon XC hardtail. They’ve been flawless though.

These are 5g lighter than a Crest, and 0.6mm narrower than a Flow. These are wider and heavier than a Flow, but obviously much tougher.

I’ve got the former, also a Surrey Hills rider, but the lighter spectrum – on a 19lb carbon XC hardtail. They’ve been flawless though

Old Flow 29″ was quoted as 525g, new Flow Ex 29″ is quoted as 545g. The LB 35mm rim is quoted as 420g +/- 15g with real reviews coming out at 395g.

Quite a bit lighter than even the lighter than any of the flows and almost down at Crest weight.

Yep, recollection fail on the weight of the Flow, I’m thinking Crest weights 😳

Thx – Stans site says a Flow is 29.1mm external width, 25.5mm internal (and a Crest 24.4mm and 21mm). The first LB is 27mm external 22mm internal, so I make that only 1mm wider internally than my Crests (not enough to be worth a switch). Am I missing something?

A Flow is 22.6mm, a Flow Ex is 25.5, but as I was getting the weights all wrong then I’d definitely get the wider ones.

Ah soz, I hadn’t realised there were 2 Flow models.

The wider ones are the same weight as Arch Ex, which I also have and am happy with.

Best ponder a bit …

Btw for those going with the ‘wide’ rims you might find you have frame tolerance issues. I only just can fit a 2.25 RR in the back of my scale only a couple of mm spare each side.

Rims still going strong couple of big scratches now. Enve stickers look a little worse for wear.

I went for the original wider hooked rim. Much wider than my Crests, similar ERD so I literally just swamped the rims. They were 10g lighter each and seem very strong.

http://www.light-bicycle.com/wider-carbon-mountain-29er-rims-clincher-tubeless-compatible.html#.U96p_4dwbbU

The width is a worry.

Currently running 2.25″ Smorgasbords on 21mm internal rims and looking at the 35mm rims with 30mm internal. Have currently got about 10mm clearance.

I run the same tyres on 21 and 29mm internals difference is about 0.5mm don’t worry about it 29 x 2.35 hans dampfs . Hype in my opinion as the profile and width are so minimal. It’s not akin to to running the likes of 2 and 2.25 tyres. You can however utilise lower tyre pressures presuming the tyre walls are up to it

cool, cheers Moda

I can measure tomorrow if you want another comparison, I’ve got a 2.3 Butcher on a LB 33mm and on a relatively skinny Roval. The difference isn’t going to be much though ime, based on measurements I did with other rims.

I can measure tomorrow if you want another comparison, I’ve got a 2.3 Butcher on a LB 33mm and on a relatively skinny Roval. The difference isn’t going to be much though ime, based on measurements I did with other rims.

yeah that would be dead handy, I have those tyres, thx’

perhaps though the difference is more about profile than width

I have a bit of a concern with the 33mm being, well just too damn big.

it does feel as if there is a bit of a gap in the LB product range here

Hype in my opinion as the profile and width are so minimal.

interesting POV

this makes sense to me http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday–Wider-Rims-Are-Better-and-Why-Tubeless-Tires-Burp-.html

I wasn’t trying to say there is a massive difference, but it is wider and if you already have tight tolerance you may end up closer than you like. Of course you can always go for a smaller tyre….

I would say it is more than .5mm but can’t be sure as didn’t measure beforehand

Just to update this thread, I’ve been running the 26″ 33mm wide AM rims for the past 9 months or so on my mojo HD.

Tonight I whacked the rear wheel into a water bar (coming down shining tor near the cat and fiddle – if anyone knows it) rather clumsily, and cracked the rim in two places.

I was running tubeless at the time, and running at a decent pressure (30psi),but after the crack, they wouldnt hold air, so I put a tube in and finished off the rest of the ride. The rims held up fine for the remainder of the ride, but they’re definitely a write off.

Pinched my rear at the ‘ard rock enduro hard enough to cut two big snakebite holes into the tyre but rim seems to be OK, need to have a proper look though. Replacement tyre sealed up OK anyway.

@mattjg, I haven’t forgotten, just not been out to the bikes! Will get on it

Right, have ordered a fully built 33mm wide 26inch hookless downhill wheel to replace the 33mm wide 26 inch hooked all mountain rim I broke last night.

Hopefully it will be up to the job, if this one breaks, then itll probably be back to alu rims for me, or maybe perfect my waterbar jumping skills.

I’m confused a bit by the wide rim thing being so much better.
the mavic enduro wheels run a 19mm wide rear rim as per testing with Nico and Fabien.
When I raced DH I always ran 721 rims as opposed to 729s as the square tyre profile from a wider rim made leaning the bike over in corners harder.
The narrow rim gave a rounder tyre profile and made off-camber and cornering more predictable.

Has this changed somehow with new tyres?

I don’t think it makes that much difference, personally. (always seems to me that the people who get most excited about it, are using tyres with bad edges, so flattening them out a bit makes them work more like they should.) More volume is good though on balance, imo. General use tyres have got wider in the time I’ve been riding, I used to get a lot of comments about my 2.35s but now that’s pretty standard (actual 2.35s that is, not Maxxis 2.35s!)

Nico doesn’t test for Mavic as far as I know, he’s been testing SRAM wheels which have been going wider. Barel seems to be into narrow rear thing but lots of Mavic pros aren’t- they had a wee production line going rebuilding Enduro rears with front rims at the EWS. (though I’d guess this is for strength rather than width- the whole “weaker on the rear” concept being pretty dubious. Certainly Cedric was getting his done for strength)

I think Mavic had to cut the width to drop the weight but attempt to keep the strength, didn’t work by the sound of it! They certainly look odd on the back of a chunky 6″ bike.

goodgrief – Member
I think Mavic had to cut the width to drop the weight but attempt to keep the strength, didn’t work by the sound of it! They certainly look odd on the back of a chunky 6″ bike.

Not sure on that – their new Crossmax XL WTS are 90g lighter than the SX, and 2mm wider internally, so the Enduros being narrower wasn’t all about weight.

OK, at Mattjg- short answer, don’t worry about the extra tyre width.

Long answer… This is an LB 33mm (26mm ID according to LB but I think that’s for the hooked version, the hookless is presumably wider ID?) vs a Roval Traversee EL’s 22mm ID. Both tyres with Butcher Control 2.3s on ’em.

The important number for frame clearance is probably the tyre width at the knobbles, as that’s where they frame’s generally tightest. And the difference is .3 of a mm! 57.2 on the LB vs 56.9 on the Roval.

There’s more difference to the actual carcass though. On the Roval, it’s 55.8mm, actually narrower than the knobs. On the LB it’s 58.2

Oh, and in terms of tyre shape, I can’t actually see any difference. Couldn’t think of any way to measure it. Perhaps height drop from the centre to the edge blocs? But that’s a bit unintuitive.

Not sure on that – their new Crossmax XL WTS are 90g lighter than the SX, and 2mm wider internally, so the Enduros being narrower wasn’t all about weight.

so, stronger without gaining weight.

TBF I think the Enduro wheelsets were mostly about getting a new product out with minimum r&d. One wheel off an SX, one wheel off a crossmax, paint off a deemax, ENDURO! Other than the 650b revision it’s all old, good parts.

XL looks a more impressive product on paper but I’m curious how strong they turn out- the SX was strong but denty, going lighter and stretching the metal further usually means losing more strength but you never know, it might just be better engineered…

4 mates have new crossmaxes, all race at ukge and other enduros, of the 4; 1 rim failure and 3 hub failures(axles split) all warrantied but no fun waiting for replacements

Northwind – Member

SX was strong but denty

Really? I’ve hammered mine and not a mark on them.

OK, at Mattjg- short answer, don’t worry about the extra tyre width.

Ta, I’ll read through the detail.

On my N9, a Crest with a 2.25 Nic has 8mm clearance at the chain stays (will vary a bit with slider position).

Up front a have a Reba, 2.3 Purgatory on a Crest too. 10mm clearance.

This is Surrey set up, in proper rocky place mode, I’d probably put the Purg out back and a Butcher up front.

Oh, and in terms of tyre shape, I can’t actually see any difference.

Maybe this requires rider weight on the wheel to kick in, or cornering side forces.

I look up the weights btw (all for a 29er):

Crest, 21mm internal, 365 grams
LB 30mm internal, they say 420 grams +/- 15
Arch Ex 21mm internal, 460 grams
Flow Ex 25mm internal, 545 grams.

So the LB is coming out half way between Crest and Arch Ex. I have some Arch Ex that I ride sometimes, I never noticed them feeling heavy.

more stickered up ENVE rims

They have these new ones that are coming out 10 Sep. I like that the bead is nice and thick.

Rim Size: 26-inch/26er mountain bike
Rim Construction: Tubeless, Carbon fiber
Rim Depth: 32mm
Width: External: 38 mm, Internal: 31 mm
Rim weight: 420g+/-15 for All mountain; 480g+/-15 for Downhill

New LB rim

I’m thinking the new Schwalbe procore system could be ideal for prolonging the life of carbon rims. Along with all the other reported benefits I’m definitely interested in trying them

Do any of you ride these LB rims in the peaks? Really tempted with some 35 wide hookless for my 29er stumpy to save a bit of weight.

Only thing holding me back is how they’d hold up with constant impact strikes. For those of you who have the hookless 35 wider rim how are you finding them and how are they holding up?

Have anyone of you had full pro2 builds from LB and how much did they come to with charges .etc?

Thanks

Do any of you ride these LB rims in the peaks? Really tempted with some 35 wide hookless for my 29er stumpy to save a bit of weight.

See my post further up there, but I destroyed a 26 inch 33mm wide rim in macc forest (well shining tor actually) in two places . Whacked it on a water bar.

A mate destroyed a mavic on one of those water bars just last week and I ruined a stans rim as well.

I flatted the other day on a very rocky descent, could not stop for about 15 meters and all the time the rim was running on a flat tyre. Rim survived and it is fine. I don’t believe a alloy rim would have lived.

I have to add that it had survived 9 months of peak/antur/welsh riding up until the water bar on shining tor killed it.

I have ordered a hookless downhill version to replace it, if that gets destroyed then its back to alu rims for me.