XC racers, what do you ride? (Insiration needed)

Think of the weight saving you would have with a new Spark frame instead of that Trek… 😛

about 50g… well mine was certainly lighter than njee20s last year i was at 17.3lbs for xl with single ring and 100mm travel forks and nobbley tyres i was happy with that and yes his does weight as much as he says, Next year im going 29er hard tail with single ring xtr and sid xx wc with tubular rims and dugast tubs
not sure on frame yet

Oh, Sefton, I think you’ll be disappointed with the weight of your RL Ti in full XT. I have full XT (except for hopexc/717/NNics wheels), XTR calipers, on my RL 853 and its 26.2lbs. Cant find your frame weight, but alu is 1lb lighter than 853. I’d say it would be closer to 25lb.

I ride my large Soda when I race. It’s my only bike and built to be versatile rather than weenie but still comes in at circa 22/23lbs. I’d go for a 29er if it was for racing only.

I’m not thin/fit/good enough to be a racer…but if I did, I’d just throw some off road tyres onto this

EDIT – damn my lack of ability to post pics – try THIS[/url]

As much as it pains me to say it 😉 njee’s bike is certainly lighter.
The weight of the Scale, as shown in that picture looks to be at least 21lb.

1475g, that figure is with the Stan rims isn’t it?

But weight isn’t everything, so who really cares.

Oh, Sefton, I think you’ll be disappointed with the weight of your RL Ti in full XT. I have full XT (except for hopexc/717/NNics wheels), XTR calipers, on my RL 853 and its 26.2lbs. Cant find your frame weight, but alu is 1lb lighter than 853. I’d say it would be closer to 25lb.

its just over 23lb in the pic thats with ox gripshift,ox rear mech, x9 front, stilo crank, mt65 wheels, m4 brakes, tubeless ready nobbys, kcnc steams bars & post. I was hoping with light wheels and smaller brakes I’d be able to get around 22lb???

the ali rocklobster frames is quoted 3.25lb

Sorry I was commenting on the XT groupset suggestion. Cant comment on your current setup, but if its 23lbs then XT groupset wont save you anything, it’ll gain. You’d need to loose both rings, front shifter/derailleur etc and yes, smaller rotors, lighter wheels will save you lbs.

I’d be happy saving the weight just from the rims & brakes.

(I need the granny) 😆

Njee, I hate to say it, but I do think his bike is lighter than yours.

Top Fuel 9.9 SSL is 21.18lbs built with full SRAM XX

That’s about right, I think my 2010 one (with XX) was slightly heavier, about 22lbs IIRC. The stock wheels are about 1550g real weight IIRC, mine are 1264g. Then go 1×10. 98g stem, alu bolts, over 100g saved in the rotors, daft skewers, ti Egg Beaters, it’s not that difficult…

As much as it pains me to say it njee’s bike is certainly lighter

Is it that bad eh Matt!? Probably lighter than yours, but yours still goes a hell of a lot faster, as you say, it really isnt’ everything!

mine was certainly lighter than njee20s last year i was at 17.3lbs for xl with single ring and 100mm travel forks and nobbley tyres i was happy with that and yes his does weight as much as he says, Next year im going 29er hard tail with single ring xtr and sid xx wc with tubular rims and dugast tubs

I look forward to weighing it, at Sherwood 🙂

Perhaps you should choose more reliable parts though – how many races did you DNF/have mechanicals!? To finish first, first you have to finish and that 😉

Is it that bad eh Matt!? Probably lighter than yours, but yours still goes a hell of a lot faster, as you say, it really isnt’ everything!

Yup, your Trek is lighter than I got the Rocky Mountain. But then I built it to be durable enough to do stage races and 24hrs and made no changes for XC races. Pretty sure the frames are similar weight.

Im not arguing that njees doesnt weigh what he says, just seems strange how he can comment on another bikes weight without it being weighed. I never built it that way for weight saving, just how it turned out. Could easliy shave another lb by taking off the bar ends, lighter grips, furious freds, carbon saddle etc. Why buy EC70 when EC90 is lighter etc, the total build cost me about £1700 with all parts brand new from shops so to get a bike under 20lbs for that money, I couldnt be happier.

I think your both lying!

If you’re looking for a bike that is feather light, stiff, but still comfortable enough for epic / enduro XC races, and with a lifetime warranty (even for racing), consider the Meridas on offer for 2012:

Ninety Nine CF Team D http://merida-bikes.com/en_int/bike/2012/13/Full+Suspension/Ninety-Nine+CF+Team-D-39

Big Nine Carbon Team D http://merida-bikes.com/en_int/bike/2012/25/MTB+Hardtails/Big.Nine+Carbon+Team-D

O.Nine Superlight Carbon Team D http://merida-bikes.com/en_int/bike/2012/20/MTB+Hardtails/O.Nine+Superlite+Team-D-39

Their Merida Multivan team has won (or finished in the high rankings) in a lot of world cup races this year and Jose Merida won the 2010 XC Wold Champs on the 2011 0.Nine Team D model year bike.

Merida have a couple of 2011 O.Nine Team Ds left.

Hope that helps.

just seems strange how he can comment on another bikes weight without it being weighed

I’ve weighed hundreds of bikes though, and I worked in a Scott dealership, so you can get an idea of what things weigh on my scales. Yours could well be more accurate!

Lynskey Ridgeline 29er does all I need and more. Light, fast, agile and so far robust!

The scales I used were at the Scott dealer I worked for, don’t own a set now

This argument is pointless.

I raced xc on a Trek EX8 (28lbs) and beat weight weenies on their xc race bikes, which goes to show weight doesn’t matter anywhere near as much as fitness and skill.

I raced xc on a Trek EX8 (28lbs) and beat weight weenies on their xc race bikes, which goes to show weight doesn’t matter anywhere near as much as fitness and skill.

Not really the discussion here though is it.

If you’re after a true all out race bike then something like the Merida or a carbon trek hardtail might be a good bet. The problem with heading down that route is that the weight, combined with the angles will make it brilliant at some things and a complete compromise for others. Yes, I’ve built a 19lb rigid singespeed which is perfect for the Thetford winter series as long as it rains heavily. For most other applications, its hard work.

As a side note, I really hope Paulatmtbleasing didn’t put the tags in at the top of the page – if it was you, you should be ashamed of yourself

flange – Member
As a side note, I really hope Paulatmtbleasing didn’t put the tags in at the top of the page – if it was you, you should be ashamed of yourself

If he didn’t that’s impresive.

XL comes in about 23lb, now with flat bar and ends. Got it as an all day marathon bike. Going to be hauling my sorry ass the length of the Pyrenees in July.

Those Canyons are storming value, almost worth buying even to hang the bits on another frame!

an on-one slot inbred with gears. having raced for years and years, I’m very much of the opinion that fit is more important than frame material or weight. nice to have light weight if it fits mind!

That is THE best advice I have read on this site for a while. Get this wrong and you’ll be selling your frame to fund the physio treatments later.

I’ve only experience this mistake in the Trialthon world. I don’t know how prolific it is within MTB but assuming you’ll be putting in time on the turbo and road miles to build speed&power (using the same bike, don’t forget to change that knobbly for the turbo 🙂 ) the same rules should apply.

Triathletes are famous for their propensity for throwing vast amounts of cash at their equipment to buy performance. There’s a huge amount more ‘have a go’ type folks (not a bad thing at all).

I’d say in XC racing at least, the ability level is somewhat higher than your average triathlon. Not too many racers do all their training on their MTBs either, although some do.

I know that this is left field, but further to what flow said above, the Transition Bandit with the Build Kit no 1 with Crank Brothers Cobalt wheelset etc weighs in at 25.7lbs.

Even though it’s a full susser with 140/130 set up this bike flies up hills and in all liklihood the forthcoming 29er will as well. Of course, when gravity works in your favour you absolutely fly! You’d keep up with the competition going up and fly past them on the down!

If you’re fit and competent as well – then you’ll certainly be competitive!

Going for a bike like this would let you tackle pretty much anything (unless you were going up something silly steep, but even then I’ve not had the front wheel lift on me) and you’d be able to enjoy it when you’re not XC racing and fancy a hoon around the trails!

Another possibility to consider – options options options!

I hear you njee, didn’t want to open the ”should I ride a road bike” can of worms 😛

Njee – do you do all your training on your MTB? I’m starting to think that this might be the way forward rather than using the road bike

oh, and behold – ‘Transition Bandit’ has appeared in the tags. How about a Transition TR450 as well?

Njee – do you do all your training on your MTB? I’m starting to think that this might be the way forward rather than using the road bike

Nope, hate riding my MTB on the road! The 16ish miles to/from Peaslake is about as much as I ever do!

Got a road bike with PowerTap for most training, which is mainly commuting (23 miles each way 2-3 days a week and 12 miles each way 1-2 days a week). Then usually do 3-5 hours on the MTB one day at the weekend.

I have to say Paul’s posts read like they’re from a marketing department, and not in a good way, treads the posting/spamming line very closely!

As title suggests.

I will be racing xc next year and need some inspiration on what frameset to get. Would prefer a carbon hartail unless convinced otherwise.

So what have you got and why did you choose you particular bike? Photo’s are more than welcome.

Hi Mulletus Maximus,

What sort of size, weight etc are you? Are you a whippet-like racer or built or something in between?

Not really the discussion here though is it.

No, its a pointless discussion about bike weight, like it wins you races or makes you faster.

MM is approx 5′ 10″ and C. 70kgs . Although it has been a while since we last rode somewhere .
TBH he already has a nice Cube AMS pro, and although not superlight the geometry is OK . It resembles a Soctt Spark with the shock tucked up under the TT . I reckon ( hope ) he will do alot of the Gorrick event where fs can be an advantage over the rooty terrain .
It might be worth changing out the ‘heavy’ componants on the Cube for lighter ones, as the cost to change by upgrading using good second hand bits and selling the old bits on ,is nowhere near that of a new bike .
A few choice changes could easily knock 1 – 2 lb off that bike which would make it a competant xc machine for a few ‘vets’ events / AYTE / Big Dog etc

has paul paid to be spamming us ?

I ride this:

However, I have changed some bits since then.
XTR skewers -> MT Zoom ti
Scott alu post -> Woodman carbon
XTR chain -> YBN something
I’ve also cut down the steerer too.

With silly tyres on (Fast Fred/Twisters) it comes in at 19.3 lbs, bit more with proper tyres (validated on expensive scales at uni).
Considering I’ve got lighter cranks, saddle, bars, post, tyres and grips I’d be very surprised if sebgt’s came in lighter 😉

With reference to the OP though, I much prefer racing this to my Epic. It demands a lot more rider input and you have to be awake to get the most out of it. It does sprint like a cat on fire uphill and is twitchy enough to be able to bomb downhill. However it is as stiff as a very stiff thing, so can be hard work on long enduros. That’s when I’d switch to the Epic (especially when I get tired in things like D2D, Mayhem etc).

Are you looking for podiums or just competing? Was very happy racing on my charge last year and bought a cheap second hand anthem x1 for this winters gorricks. I don’t think you need to spend mega bucks get something half decent and when you get to the point of thinking its the bike holding you back rather than fitness upgrade. That said I nearly went for a whippet, happy I picked the anthem much more practical for my riding.

Problem solved.

This is now mine. 😀

Will be built up with XT and Thomson. Wheels will be a bit of a let down though as they will be from my cube until I find something better.

schmiken if your bike weighs that little, there is no way Njees bike weighs whatever he says it does.

Kona Heihei.

schmiken if your bike weighs that little, there is no way Njees bike weighs whatever he says it does.

As in mine’s heavier, or lighter? My scales do seem to come up heavy, I’ve never seen a bike lighter than someone expected/had weighed elsewhere! The Park ones make everything lighter, and those often seem to be what people use – perhaps they’ve biased them for willy waving rights 🙂

OP, hope you like the BMC. Don’t use Thomson unless you’re a heavy bugger, there’s lighter finishing kit for less money!

Don’t use Thomson unless you’re a heavy bugger, there’s lighter finishing kit for less money!

I’m only using the thomson as they’re donor parts. I have some spare EA70 parts as but the seat tube is the wrong size.