Home › Forums › Bike Forum › Tripster ATR finally built up – lush!
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Tripster ATR finally built up – lush!
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TurnerGuyFree Member
you mean appears, don’t you. The effective TT is slightly longer, but because of the slacker seattube more of it is behind the BB and the reach is less, like on their chart.
I think I am going to have to find someone or somewhere with a 55.5 to check.
TurnerGuyFree MemberWoking, Surrey.
Junction 11 of the M25 and then down a bit. Near McLaren/Apple.
RikFree MemberCyclist magazine have a ‘gravel’ bike special and are showing the new ATR V2
Looks nice, they say it’s compatible with 650b but don’t say how big a tyre,
DaffyFull MemberI’m near Bristol (just outside Castle Comb) if you’re heading down the M4 at any point.
TurnerGuyFree Membercheers, I have mates in Cardiff that I visit occasionally, although I have a lot going on at the moment so nothing imminent 🙁
RikFree MemberIf I’m reading the Kinesis website correctly – is the warranty offered on the Tripster ATR only 1 year????
Seems ridiculously short, most Ti frames have a 10 year guarantee, even the ones sold by Planet X
RikFree MemberThere is a frame info sheet on the website that says 1 year for all frames, even 3 years seems short
slackboyFull Memberits three years
9. What is the Warranty Period on my product?: 3 years warranty for all frames, 1 year for paint and decals, 1 year for accessories such as forks, handlebars and wheelsets. These limited warranties do not apply to normal wear and tear, claimed defects, malfunctions or failures that result from abuse, neglect, improper assembly, improper maintenance, alteration, collision, crash or misuse. Installation of components, parts, or accessories not originally intended for use with or compatible with Kinesis UK frames and components will void any warranty offered by Kinesis UK.
http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/AdditionalDepartments/Footer-Content/Support/FAQ-2
notmyrealnameFree Member@TurnerGuy
If you’re wanting a try on a 55cm then drop me a line. I’m not far from Woking at all so you can have a go on mine if you want.whitecitadelFree Memberwhitecitadel: di2 on a tripster is also great because you can add shifters too the ends of your aerobars. Great for long-distance bike packing.
I’d fit MTB gears if starting from scratch. 30/32 is too high for repeated 20% hills and a fully loaded bike unless you are *very* fit.
Yes I saw that Mike Hall did that on his bike, very flexible (expensive) system. I have been doing some calculations and the XT really is great value, and from what I read as long as you run front/rear mech the same as MTB or Road you can mix – so you could go XT with drop bar RS785 shifters (hydraulic a must for me).
Depends what your riding I suppose, and how long its uphill, I can climb the big hill on local MTB route I ride on 24/22 (1.09), and 30/32 gives 0.983 – but that’s not “repeated hills” as you suggest. I actually just bought some 30/42 XTR cranks I might put on, the chainline is not identical to road though – might need creative spacing.
Of course if you went di2 with MTB shifters you could run a triple!
Waiting for pic of v2 frame at bike show at NEC, anyone seen one?
TurnerGuyFree Member@TurnerGuy
If you’re wanting a try on a 55cm then drop me a line. I’m not far from Woking at all so you can have a go on mine if you want.thanks for the offer, will get in touch !
jobroFree Memberhave been doing some calculations and the XT really is great value, and from what I read as long as you run front/rear mech the same as MTB or Road you can mix
So,does this mean I can use RS785 levers with Di XTR rear mech on a 1X11 set up? ‘Cos my lbs said I couldn’t.
This was my hoped for set up on the V2 ATR when it becomes available.
DaffyFull MemberR785s works perfectly with XTR11 Di2 or Alfine 11 Di2 for a 1*11 setup. I don’t see why you would, but it works fine.
I’ve done this with both, it works just fine.
There are (solvable) complications with front mechs and firmware, but the rears work fine.
llatsniFree MemberMy Tripster is reborn with Ultegra Hydro 2×11 kit… and I’m delighted! Such a nice road bike now. 52-36 up front, 11-32 out back is a simply brilliant range of gears for me. Brakes and shifting are sublime too.
Might swap out the 30c S-One’s (33mm wide on my Grails!) for something faster now. Hearing bad reliability reports for the Pro-One’s – can anyone here comment? Or recommend something else tubeless, fast and reliable?
atrthanksFree Memberyou could go XT with drop bar RS785 shifters (hydraulic a must for me).
This is probably how my Tripster will end up when I wear out my Di2 road FD/RD. I have RS785 brakes at the moment and they are fantastic.
Depends what your riding I suppose, and how long its uphill, I can climb the big hill on local MTB route I ride on 24/22 (1.09), and 30/32 gives 0.983 – but that’s not “repeated hills” as you suggest.
I like riding this kind of thing[/url] as well as 200-400km/day touring 🙂
(I also got my numbers wrong – the front is a normal Ultegra compact which is 50/34 giving an effective ratio of 1.06.)
Of course if you went di2 with MTB shifters you could run a triple!
What I really want is to gain 100W on my FTP and lose 5-10kg…
atrthanksFree MemberMight swap out the 30c S-One’s (33mm wide on my Grails!) for something faster now. Hearing bad reliability reports for the Pro-One’s – can anyone here comment?
I’ve got 30c S-Ones on my winter/exploring wheels and 25c Pro-Ones on my summer wheels. I’ve put a bit more than 1500 miles on both sets with no issues.
They both ride well and are both far better than the Sector 28s I tried before. Very easy to set up as well.
cloudnineFree MemberHearing bad reliability reports for the Pro-One’s – can anyone here comment? Or recommend something else tubeless, fast and reliable?
Have run 28c pro ones tubeless since April and can’t fault them. Couldn’t get them inflated with just a track pump but fine with co2 or an airshot. No known punctures, fast rolling and good in the wet.
notmyrealnameFree MemberI’ve been rebuilding the Tripster today and removed the current 1×11 set up and instead set it up as 2×11 with a compact up front.
After much faffing about I remembered why it is that I don’t have front mech’s on any of my bikes. Bloody horrible things.Anyway, after much faffing the front shifting still isn’t great so it got me thinking…….
The compact with an 11/28 cassette gives me a spread from 32.8 to 122.7 gear inches.
With a 46t single ring and an XT 11/40 cassette the gear spread would be from 31.1 to 112.9
According to my workings out I’d only really lose the equivalent of 50/11 from the double set up and if I went to a 48t single ring up front I’d have virtually the same spread as a double.Is there any reason that I shouldn’t run the Tripster with 1×11 running a 46t or 48t up front?
I’d be using an XT or XTR rear mech with a Tanpan so it would still work with my Ultegra shifters.mattsFree MemberIs there any reason that I shouldn’t run the Tripster with 1×11 running a 46t or 48t up front?
Depends on how you use it. If you do a lot of road miles training, then the smaller gaps between gears allows you to keep a steady power and cadence more easily. If you just ride around for pleasure the whole time, then you just ride a bit slower if you don’t have the exact gear you want.
atrthanksFree MemberAt 100rpm 50×11 is about 36mph vs 33mph for 50×12.
So you might need the gear depending on your natural cadence.
whitecitadelFree MemberIs there any reason that I shouldn’t run the Tripster with 1×11 running a 46t or 48t up front?
I’d be using an XT or XTR rear mech with a Tanpan so it would still work with my Ultegra shifters.Have you tried a gear calulator? Here are your two setups:
HTML 5 Gear Calculator 34t/50t & 11-28 vs 48t & 11-40
(you may need to select “gear inches” from the Display drop down to refresh the page after it loads).Your gear range is basically the same, but you have 13-15% gear step on every shift with the single chainring, if you have the double compact you get close spacing above 22kph.
Personally I find more gears is more when touring around, more choice, better match to cadence.
MTB-RobFree MemberFew things to some post in the last few pages,
Some great info on gear, front chain ring sizes etc, good timing as I been asked to spec/do a interesting build!Alloy nipples, look at Crosslight HD wheel set they come with brass nipples as standard.
Pro 1s, been running 28 tubeless with no issues, think they been great, and holding up v well, Not tried S ones yet (they turned up after a event I wanted them for) but might be fitting G one soon…. as they sitting there calling out to be fitted… 😈 But really I need to swap stans alpha 400 rims for the grail ones.
Daffy, not far from me 😉 if you passing Devizes way pop/let me know be good to meet you!
notmyrealnameFree MemberHave you tried a gear calulator? Here are your two setups:
HTML 5 Gear Calculator 34t/50t & 11-28 vs 48t & 11-40
(you may need to select “gear inches” from the Display drop down to refresh the page after it loads).Your gear range is basically the same, but you have 13-15% gear step on every shift with the single chainring, if you have the double compact you get close spacing above 22kph.
Thanks for that link. I was using the Sheldon Brown gear calculator but the one in your link is much better.
Still not 100% sure on whether I’m going to stick with the 1x set-up or whether I should go Di2 with a compact.
My current thinking is to go to 2×11 Di2 with Ultegra hydraulics and an XT rear mech to take advantage of the clutch. After doing a bit of reading yesterday I’m not sure yet whether I’d need the XT front mech as well or whether I would be able to use the Ultegra one.
Part of my thinking is that it would be quite easy to switch between 1x and 2x set-ups by just removing the front mech and swapping chainrings, no messing about with cables!whitecitadelFree MemberMy understanding is you can’t match road/MTB mech’s front/rear.
You can run both MTB mechs, or both road mechs, with any shifter, but you can’t mix the mech’s. I am no expert, I just read the internet. There was more on this a page or two back.
Also, see: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.0.0-01-EN.pdf
If your buying now, you want the latest bluetooth battery (external or seatpost) and either the XT MT800 display or the EW-WU101 wireless unit so you can adjust settings from a phone/tablet via bluetooth would be my advice. Again, not an expert – just pricing out options for my tripster build 😉
notmyrealnameFree MemberI’d been hunting about for the etube compatibility chart but only found it today, looks like I’ll be needing XTR front and rear mech’s if I want it to work the way I’m planning.
I’m a bit disappointed that when I spoke to Upgrade last month before I bought the frame they told me that there was no sign of the v2 frame and if there was going to be one it wouldn’t be until mid to late 2017 🙁
I’m not too keen on drilling the frame to run it internally with it being a new frame so it looks like I’ll be needing the external battery and holder. I’ll need to read up on the bluetooth battery as I didn’t realise that you could get one, I thought you just needed the dongle thing.
llatsniFree Member25c Pro-Ones installed and I love them. Compared to the S-Ones:
They’re light! They weighed in at 275 & 257g (IIRC the s-ones were in the 350g region)
They’re still pretty wide: Come up to 28.5mm @ 110psi on my Grails
They’re fast: It feels a lot easier to accelerate, and maintain speed
Lastly, they’re comfy! I think I might have been doing it wrong with the S-Ones, maybe I was running the pressures above their sweet-spot, because the Pro-Ones feel more compliant at a similar % of max pressure – despite losing 4.5mm of girth to the S’s
moobazFree MemberAdvice please. I have just entered the 2017 Majorca 312. I was planning to buy a Kinesis Gran Frondo Disc frame and build it up, but looking at the geometry and weight of the ATR its not a million miles apart.
Could I / should I use my ATR for the event? It has a full Ultegra 11 speed group set and hydraulics, a carbon seat stem, 3T Ergonova bars and stem and Hunt 4 Season wheels on it at the moment with Strada Bianca 30mm tyres.
Its a lovely ride, however, I was thinking of fitting it with Hunts’s 30Carbon Aero Discs, Dura Ace crank and rear mech and fitting a carbon stem.
HUNT 30 Carbon Aero Disc Wheelset
What are peoples thoughts on this and its suitability for the Majorca 312?
tomwoodburyFree MemberHi all, great to see this thread alive still. I’m looking to replace the headset on my tripster but have been advised by a dealer the only replacement available is the FSA headset that the bike was supplied with. It seems a bit crazy that a mass produced bike only has one option in this regard, and I was rather hoping to get something blingy like a Chris king. Has anyone fitted a non fsa headset?
mattsFree MemberWhat are peoples thoughts on this and its suitability for the Majorca 312?
Could I / should I use my ATR for the event?
Could you? For sure. I have started taking my Tripster away with me instead of my race bike. I stick some 25mm Open Pave tyres on and swap the seatpost+saddle.* Sure, it’s 2Kg heavier, but the ride is great. I love the way the bike rides. I have the position set up almost identically to my race bike (there is 2cm more stack). The only time I’d wish for my race bike was when I was having a proper crack at some of the 100 climbs segments on Strava.** The rest of the time, the weight difference is irrelevant, and I don’t even think about it. I also have a GS mech to take a 32 cassette. Perfect for spinning up those silly hills.
Those Hunt wheels would save you 200g. Not a great deal. They’re only a few mm deeper, so wouldn’t be much more aero. But over 300km, with all that climbing, they would make a bit of difference.
Maybe the bigger question is how would *you* feel about riding it? What do you want to get out of the day? Are you riding just for the thrill of it? Are you trying to set a top time? Are you trying to ride against your mates?
* I just swap the one from the other bike, as I usually have a seatpack mount on for commuting.
** I’m fairly certain I would’ve got second on these 2 with a 2Kg lighter bike.
– Asterton Bank (https://www.strava.com/segments/739488)
– Burway (https://www.strava.com/segments/6681340)whitecitadelFree MemberHi all, great to see this thread alive still. I’m looking to replace the headset on my tripster but have been advised by a dealer the only replacement available is the FSA headset that the bike was supplied with. It seems a bit crazy that a mass produced bike only has one option in this regard, and I was rather hoping to get something blingy like a Chris king. Has anyone fitted a non fsa headset?
I thought Tripster was FSA No42 tapered? I am using an Aerozine on my carbon MTB with the same headset – should be lots choice?
Not sure you can use external Chris King if its internal headset though?whitecitadelFree MemberAnyone heard anymore on the v2 frame? The large 60cm frame was no longer listed on the upgrade website when I looked the other day.
If it does not appear soon, likely to buy a Mason Bokeh (alu) instead!
moobazFree MemberThanks matts. I think i’ll use the Tripster and just adapt it. I’m just looking to complete / survive the event in the time limit. Comfort will be a big part of enjoying the ride so the Tripster makes sense.
I think i’ll invest some of the money I was going to use for the Gran Frondo in making the bike lighter. I’ve also got a stone I can lose to help. 😆 If nothing else, it’ll help psycologically!
gingerloverFree MemberIve had my tripster for a few months now, building it with 105 and Hunt cross wheels. Last Saturday was probably the best bike ride I’ve ever had, riding on quiet lanes and then getting lost on canal and bridle paths. If it were not for the trusty gps flag on my favourite café I’d still be out there now. Its truly a fantastic bike. Here’s the bit that’s going to get everyone moaning at me though! I think Kinesis have pushed the ATR description a bit tooo far. Adventure? Yep. Touring? Deffo. Race? Er…sorry..no. I know I could make it lighter by spending a few (hundred) quid, but I went out on my elderly VN Yukon yesterday, and the difference on road was night and day. As I say, this is a great bike, and we all knew there would be compromises when we bought one, but a true roadie this frame ain’t. Is there enough in my wallet for a GF disc too? Hmmm…
notmyrealnameFree MemberI always thought the ‘Race’ referred to CX racing, not road racing.
No idea what it’d be like for CX racing either mind you!VortexracingFull MemberMy CX Racing on it will, be very limited, that’s for sure. 😯
It’s my winter and wet commuter/light Touring/bridleway/canal path etc etc bike.
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