[Looks really nice, pretty similar to what I’ve been designing in my head only thing I’d like different is a shorter headtube and or fork. With a 4″ headtube it’d be perfect! ]
My idea behind the headtube height is that it takes the weight from your wrists with a rigid fork, and it works. You could run it with a 5mm spacer and a zero degree 40mm stem and it should downsize nicely, the standover is about the same height as a regular small (14″) frame.
The one problem I’ve had with all the rigid bikes I’ve owned is that they’ve all had what I call a low xcish position that punishes the wrists. I don’t get this with the Stooge, the riding position mimicks a long travel bike in relation to bar/seat position. The front end seems to skip over obstacles with a lot less manhandling than I’m used to. Couple with the slammed, tight rear end, it has a really nice pivot point, you certainly don’t need to pull on the bars much to get the front up.
Bonesetter, I understand what you’re saying. Many years ago I ran an Ellsworth Specialist with the original Pike forks. It was the street trial frame intended for rigid forks. With the Pikes set at 100mm it rode in a way that was nicely planted, but when I hiked it up to 140mm the bike became mentally capable, even though on paper the geometry was shot. The higher bb certainly made the bike kick forward when you pedalled. Obviously the Stooge is nothing like that bike 🙂