Best method/kit to bleed shimano brakes

In the past I put a block in, open valve on calliper, pull lever, close valve, release lever top up repeat.
Is there a better way of bleeding shimano brakes, what kit do you use?
Whilst this method works there is still room for better results
Any alternatives to shimano fluid?

bleed pot. fit it, pump a few times, wait…. do again… wait… done.

You need a funnel whatever. If you want to completely change the fluid then do a back bleed with a Reverb syringe (remove the threaded end from the tube and pop it over the bleed nipple and pump a full load back through the system until the fluid runs clean into the funnel). Otherwise, if all you want is to firm up the lever a bit, simply stick the funnel on (set the lever level with the ground)), pop a cm of fluid in and remove the plug, then tie the lever back to the bars with a strong elastic band and leave over night.

Trickle bleed it from the top. Scared me stupid when I saw this as it sounds preposterous, but it just works.

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-BR0005-12-ENG.pdf

the only concern about pumping the lever with the bleeder open is that you are running the master cylinder piston across a part of the master cylinder that it normally doesn’t reach. On older brakes, rubbish can collect in there and damage the seals.

In systems where you can top up the reservoir or fit a funnel, gravity bleeding is a good idea to start with – just open the bleeder at the caliper and let fluid flow down through the system, keep topping up the reservoir, obviously. If that doesn’t work, then try gently pumping the lever to force fluid through the system.

Fit old pads when you bleed. This will let the caliper pistons extend a little, so the system will be overfilled. Then, when you are finished, leave the bleed port on the master cylinder open and use a screwdriver to lever the pads apart and push the pistons back into the caliper. This will force the excess fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir and make sure it is completely full, without any air bubbles. Then fit your good pads. (However, it’s a good idea to clean the pistons first with a toothbrush or something and warm soapy water, then rinse them off with hot water, then lube them with a few drops of brake fluid. This stop dirt and rubbish getting force into the piston seals when you push the pistons back in.)

Thanks all, funnel ordered, hopefully that will do the trick, will certainly make it easier

Funnel all the way. 90% of the time I’m very lazy and just attach the funnel, pop a bit of oil in, and squeeze the lever / tap the hose for a few mins until bubbles stop coming out.

I did a bottom up bleed with a syringe at the calliper end and a funnel to catch fluid. On the basis that air generally rises I think that’s the best way to make sure your hoses are bubble free.

I did a bottom up bleed with a syringe at the calliper end and a funnel to catch fluid. On the basis that air generally rises I think that’s the best way to make sure your hoses are bubble free.

This. Just make sure you give a little pull on the caliper syringe when you first connect to avoid getting an air bubble in the caliper that you have to push all the way through.

Getting a firm lever is the easy bit. Making sure you haven’t got bubbles in the reservoir that will cause the famous wandering bite point is the tricky bit and pushing them out through the top seems better than hoping they flow out the bottom.

https://www.mbr.co.uk/how-to-2/wandering-bite-point-shimano-405883

Have used epicbleedsolutions.com kits for bleeding XT and Deore, and it just works

Have used <span class=”skimlinks-unlinked”>epicbleedsolutions.com</span> kits for bleeding XT and Deore, and it just works

How did you fair with their interpretation of a funnel? It looked a bit faff-ey to me compared to the proper Shimano jobbie.

My experience of gravity bleed is that the air bubble/s move upwards faster then the fluid flows down. You can watch it in a clear tube.
Fine if you’re flushing an air free system.
But then I’m not Marshy…

Mityvac vacuum pump. Once you have one, bleeding anything is a doddle.

This is a good method – good enough for the Santa Cruz Syndicate:

What difference would not screwing out the free stroke adjuster make to Marshy’s method in terms of removing wandering bite point? My MT501 levers don’t have them.

Must bleed mine….

Trickle bleed it from the top. Scared me stupid when I saw this as it sounds preposterous, but it just works.

That seems like quite a crazy way to go about it. Taking the caliper off the bike and allowing fluid to pour out all over it.

Open,pump,hold,close,release,open,pump,hold,close,release. – Been the way to do all manner of brakes since brakes began. too many ‘Sure’ ways to do it.
The fact hope use a bleed nipple is what I’d think it the correct method or building a brake thats designed to be bled. Small grub screws and caps and take this off and shove this syringe into that and etc etc etc and other radical designs so far havent caused anything but difficulties bleeding them

What scotroutes said (page 19 onwards in the manual)
I mean, seriously, why wouldn’t Shimano know how to maintain the product that they designed and made??
Only thing I’ve had to add (on one bike only ever) was leaving a cable tie round the brake lever overnight to get rid of excess lever movement.
OP also asked about alternative fluids, we dun that recently, link coming
pick the bones out of this:
.https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/the-great-shimano-mineral-oil-drought-of-2021-when-where-can-i-get-some/.
(Juice Lubes works fine IME)

I mean, seriously, why wouldn’t Shimano know how to maintain the product that they designed and made??

This.

@rockandrollmark It’s worked really well for me. have had it a couple of years, and not had any problems with faff.

If you take the plunger out of a syringe, it works just like a shimano funnel.

If you’re replacing old fluid with new fluid, you need to flush from one end to the other, obvs.

To absolutely get rid of air bubbles, IMO nothing beats running a funnel/open syringe at both ends and gently raising and lowering the caliper relative to the m/c to siphon the fluid one end to the other. Zero mess. Miniscule pressure differential to atmospheric, so no new air being introduced. Perfect control. Tap to dislodge bubbles. Do this with a detached caliper and rotate to various angles while tapping to get all the last air bubbles out.

FWIW, I’ve had bad M8000 calipers that did not come good, with indication that the pistons had embedded aluminium swarf in them (manufacturing defect) preventing correct slip/grip in the piston seals.

like the Syndicate vid but with a MityVac vacuum pump on the caliper. Faster, easier, and you don’t have to remove the caliper/pads.

You can also bleed Hopes like this too. Anything with a bleed port, basically.