I work in the perfume industry export concentrated perfume in massive tonnages to factories that make soap and other smelly products. It’s one of those jobs you hear about then you think: “Of course! How does the smell get into my shower gel or shampoo or detergent?”
We employ three chemistry graduates full time on compliance and a large amount of their time is spent in keeping up to date with the latest piece of EU legislation concerning maximum dosages of certain supposed allergens or irritants or whatever that are allowed in a product. We also emply five perfumers and most of their time is also wasted in modifying existing products to fit the latest legislation. Modifications are always done with the customer’s knowledge. As chewkw points out above, you would have to feed several litres of these raw materials to a volunteer for a couple of years before they suffered any harm but that’s EU paranoia for you.
On pheromones, if there really was one that worked we would be selling it by the shipload, believe me! The aphrodisiac effect is entirely in people’s heads, as far as we can tell!
On male vs.female, female perfumes are usually more floral in character with subtle woody and musky notes to give substantivity on the skin whereas men’s perfumes are usualy fresher and more citrussy or woody, without the floral notes – with a few notable exceptions.
Somebody mentioned Cool Water – this is technically a very interesting perfume in that the perfumer used some materials called Galbex, precylemone B, Calone 1951 and di-hydro myrcenol, which had only been used until then to give freshness in things like fabric conditioners and at tiny dosages like 0.01%. In Cool Water they were employed at unprecedentedly high dosages of up to 4%, which is what gave Cool water that amazing fresh ozonic smell. The benefit to consumers is that those materials were never sold for use in luxury perfumes so they are cheap, which is why soon after Cool water was launched the supermarket shelves were full of cheap masculine toiletries with very good copies of Cool Water in them.