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  • What steel roadbike frame
  • MrSmith
    Free Member

    deda 215’s are the old road diameter? the drop is the same as a newton shallow.
    personally i would go for a short/shallow wing/compact type bar as being a ‘clydesdale’ you are more likely to use the closer drops then as they won’t be far away.
    forget carbon bars, theres loads of good butted light alloy ones to choose from.

    hora
    Free Member

    Cheers – Newton’s more populous/available too

    flange
    Free Member

    It’s a fair cop regarding my previous thread about weight, I was just trying for a bite….It’s a nice frame and I’m jealous..

    Bars – I always used to get the widest bars I could with a view that I like wide bars on my MTB so surely I’d like them on the road bike. Not true however, recently I’ve gone narrow again with 42’s and they feel much nicer and I don’t get the shoulder/neck pain that I did previously on the 44’s (that were closer to 46’s). Don’t bother with carbon unless you’re going for a weight weenie build. I like the Syntace stuff, but the Zipp service course stuff is always well regarded.

    crashtestmonkey
    Free Member

    my MTB bars have gone from 711 to 730, and at the same time my road bike’s went from 42 to 40 (I’m quite a slight build).

    + plenty on being meh about carbon bars, huge price increase for negligible benefits.

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Interesting TINAS, you’ve lost 250gm over mine which have 32/32 15/16 guage spokes and a 105 rear hub (I like cheap cassettes!) (and my point you quoted was in reference to the bloke saying it was easy to get a 7.3kg bike then said it was Super Record etc).

    I rebuilt my rear with spoke washers.

    hora
    Free Member

    Probably not the done thing but that dark grey demands tan bar tape- lynch me or kinda agree? 8)

    Either that it perforated black

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    Not too offensive. You’d need a saddle to match though. It’s the law.

    Reckon with your wheels though, and assuming back stem, bars and post, I’d stick with black bar tape. Tan tends to go better with chrome finishing kit IMO.

    bikebouy
    Free Member

    Black or White tape, black or white saddle.

    Tan tapes fine but you’ll struggle to find a saddle modern enough in Tan, of course you could go down the Brooks route, if you like. If you really want to do that, I doubt it.

    Or..

    Orange tape/saddle (with orange highlights) will work.

    Pink will work too.

    Steer clear of green or blue.

    hora
    Free Member

    Oh- so that’d mean I’d have to have white tape? (I’ve got a white Spesh saddle that I like).

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    Sell it. Buy a black one.

    edhornby
    Full Member

    yes white tape with white saddle

    a lot of the recommends for compact bars (as above) are exactly what you already have with the PX bars so crack on with what you have – spending a lot of money on bars would gain about 60g weight loss, you don’t need ‘soft’ carbon bars because you’ve just bought a steel frame to solve that job

    I have them on my commuter bike, they’re good bars

    TurnerGuy
    Free Member

    There was a ti railed tan leather charge spoon a while ago (I have one), although I don’t think they do them any more.

    KPHC
    Full Member

    There’s a tan Charge/Fabric Scoop too, but think it has a sky blue base

    TurnerGuy
    Free Member

    Here’s my charge, but I am thinking of getting rid as I think the tan only works with the chrome kit, as mentioned. The tape is cheap charge stuff as well, which doesn’t look great:

    As its leather the shade of the charge could be darkened I reckon with some expert polishing skills…

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Interesting TINAS, you’ve lost 250gm over mine which have 32/32 15/16 guage spokes and a 105 rear hub (I like cheap cassettes!) (and my point you quoted was in reference to the bloke saying it was easy to get a 7.3kg bike then said it was Super Record etc).

    I rebuilt my rear with spoke washers.

    I’ll be mostly in the hub, they’re scarily light. Although unlike the A2Z on my MTB when I took them appart there’s nothing scary about them, they’re just very simple/minimal. Whereas the A2Z I suspect will break it’s axle at some point as it’s not well suppourted.

    I used washers and plenty of grease as they’re the original Alphas with less material in the spoke bead.

    That build’s DA 7800 shifters/mechs, PX brakes, FSA SL-K chainset, carbon post, ritchey WCS alloy bars and stem, so not budget either (but not super-record!), but the groupset was bought 2nd hand. Just proves that a build nudging the UCI weight limit is possible without breaking the bank, and most of the 2nd hand bits would be even cheaper now than when I bough them.

    theflatboy
    Free Member

    Here you go – my seat of choice, Charge Knife, in a fetching brown with ti rails at a truly bargain price… http://www.rutlandcycling.com/280813/products/charge-knife-saddle.aspx

    hora
    Free Member

    Let the building commence.

    Allow circa 25mm ontop of the stem depth for above/below spacers then chop down again when sure?

    monkeyfudger
    Free Member

    Na, man through and slam it. This is your 3rd road bike, you’re an experienced roadie now…

    hora
    Free Member

    Sod that yet- +15mm?

    The forks are crazy light. The frame unwrapped and the most ultra-accurate hand-heft test- I didn’t think ‘thats heavy’ just ‘its lighter than what I thought’.

    firestarter
    Free Member

    Id leave more than that tbh i tend to leave at least 50mm plus stem and trim later as its much harder to trim small amounts later i find and its gives more room to play with

    Looks nice i do love the red white and blue ritchey bikes tho

    Macavity
    Free Member

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61kUfkb-gyQ
    Trevor Jarvis, Flying Gate

    theflatboy
    Free Member

    hora – 25mm on top of stem

    mf – slam it

    hora – 15mm

    😆 peer pressure susceptibility 100% 😆

    ahwiles
    Free Member

    what’s the frame weigh?…

    (not that i’m tempted, oh no)

    hora
    Free Member

    Officially 3.9lb- I dont think it is. It feels lighter. Handscales say 3.2lb 😆

    It feels as light as the Rocky Mountain Vertex frame that I owned years ago.

    everyone
    Free Member

    Please don’t do an ugly build on that frame. It deserves to be beautiful!

    hora
    Free Member

    All black 6800 Ultegra and Ultegra wheels and black tape?

    The only fly in the ointment is my Spesh Phenom saddle is… white.

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    theflatboy
    Free Member

    Personally I’d go with all black finishing kit, Ultegra to match the frame and I would get tape and seat to match the colour of one of the stripes on the frame as far as possible. I realise that is controversial, but I like a bit of colour and it would all coordinate beautifully. 🙂

    everyone
    Free Member

    Some of the Ritchey classic finishing kit might be nice.

    BadlyWiredDog
    Full Member

    Love the way My ‘I don’t care’ Hora is being slowly assimilated into the ‘build a pretty road bike with matching saddle and tape’ orthodoxy. You’ll be a slave to The Rules next…

    Don’t let them grind you down, Hora: rock it out with a pink saddle, tan bar-tape and humungous flared bars. Fit mud-guards and stack of stems. Wear non-matching socks and baggies and parade your helmet peak with pride. We’re rooting for you here in road bike Uglyville.

    Please don’t do an ugly build on that frame. It deserves to be beautiful!

    Diddums… it’s not like it’s your bike is it? 😉

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    Something about the newer Shimano chain sets look a bit rubbish with thinner steel tubes…

    SRAM or Campag look a lot better…

    Bin the old finishing kit too and get some nice WCS.

    Also I reckon these Ambrosio Nemesis wheels[/url] from a different thread would be ideal 🙂

    hora
    Free Member

    I’m more concerned at wrapping the bars properly! I’ve only ever wrapped one set of bars before (track commuter).

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    Bar wrapping… loads of videos on youtube of how to do it properly.

    aP
    Free Member

    Ambrisio Nemesis rims? Can you imagine hora with tubs?
    Reminds me, I must get round to finishing off Aquaseal-ing my Dugast tubs on Record/ Nemesis before Battle on the Beach.

    Teetosugars
    Free Member

    Where did you get the Frame from Hora?

    hora
    Free Member

    Acycles in France. DONT try Shiny bikes.

    bikebouy
    Free Member

    I’d leave at least 25mm steerer showing then fit the stem, bars and go ride. You’ll be suprised at the difference from your old bike.. Plus when you do cut the steerer down you’ll have enough to play with. Don’t slam it yet, give it about 10 rides before you get the hacksaw to it.
    Bar tape, peasy, GCN has some great vids on “how to..”
    I’d at least try and match the tape with the saddle, if your saddle is white then spend £15 and get some white tape too.

    Finishing kit?

    You’ll figure out what works well/budget constraints soon enough.

    Just build it, post pics, then ride it..

    oldgit
    Free Member

    aP (sorry Hora) my tubs have been glued on and unused for over a year. Tyres are fine, but do you reckon I should re glue them?

    Bregante
    Full Member

    Just build it, post pics, then ride sell it..

    I believe you have my email.

    Gary_C
    Full Member

    FOURHUNDRED!! 😆

Viewing 40 posts - 361 through 400 (of 523 total)

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