Tongsheng TSDZ2 ebike kit

remember there is a hidden setting to adjust the torque sensor sensitivity. I turned mine up a bit and it feels better. Max power at moderate pedaling effort rather than only when really jumping on the pedals

remember there is a hidden setting to adjust the torque sensor sensitivity.

Is that the setting that is set as 16 by default? I can’t see me adjusting this upwards, I do actually want to pedal.

Yes

I only turned it up a bit. I didn’t want to break sweat climbing the hills to work! If you turn it up a lot its like an on off switch

I found as standard even on turbo I wasn’t getting full power unless i was sprinting flat out

Careful and of overheating it in Turbo. You can kill them with heat if you are pulling load, especially if it’s 36v battery. Mines 48v and a 10 mile sprint back from the pub had it uncomfortably hot, and that wasn’t even grinding up hills. I use mine in sport 99% of the time and it’s fine. Feels more natural as well.

You can run an under bb cable but may have to dremel down the plastic guide. However, I’d be tempted just to run a full outer and route it around the motor.

16 is 16 amp current limit. You can go higher but risk burning it out. Depends what battery is rated at as well.

I’ve left the current limit and sensitivity as default. It’s plenty fast enough and should protect the motor and maintain usable range. My battery BMS may make it behave differently to yours though

Some crap photos I took ages ago. The sheds a mess!

New day, different bike 😁

Wow.
An old purple Rig that’s not cracked at the seatube toptube junction.🙂

Or at the BB

Give it time 🙂 I’m sure adding another 10kg to it and riding it through another winter will be fine

It’s bastardised anyway. 6 speed, slicks, full mudguards, did have Mary bars on it, now it’s electrified.

It’s better as a commuter than it was as an MTB to be honest. Didn’t really like it as a SS MTB. Unforgiving and not a lot of fun.

Hmm, I do have one small issue with the new build. If I just wheel the bike along or ride really slowly it says I’m doing 99.9kph! Once going it displays the speed properly. Any ideas?

Weird. Not had that! It must be dropping off the bottom end of the measurement. Does it do it when set to MPH?

Maybe it’s not picking up a reading at lower speeds. Try moving the sensor so it’s closer to the magnet

Haven’t tried it in mph. It didn’t do it when fitted to my Orange yesterday! I wonder if it is interference where some wires are crossing? I will try re-routing. Speed sensor is close to the magnet already

Just spinning the wheel in the workstand shows 99.9kph

Solved. Sensor was too close to the magnet!

Well I was sort of right 🙂

First ride this evening when I rode it home from work. Mostly left it in tour mode (level 2) except when I overtook a couple when I turned it off – pedals really rather well without assistance. 32km and no bars used on the battery indicator – must have infinite range!
Impressed by how smooth it is. It would be nice if you could put the actual wheel circumference into the software so that the speed is accurate but that is a minor niggle.

I do need to find a way of mounting a waterbottle as I’m going to find it rather annoying not having one.

the battery indicator unfortunatly is not very good. It stays on full for ages then drops quite quickly

the battery indicator unfortunatly is not very good. It stays on full for ages then drops quite quickly

Noted!

the battery indicator unfortunatly is not very good. It stays on full for ages then drops quite quickly

Can you change the chemistry in the menu?

LiFePO4 batteries are only 3.2, and conventional lithium batteries are 3.6-3.85 depending on various factors like electrolyte chemistry, anode coatings, internal resistance, and what protection they have.

Lithium batteries have a relatively flat discharge curve over the middle 80% or so, so if you pick the wrong chemistry then you won’t drop below that first 10% being used until you hit the far end and there’s only 10% left.

Not that I am aware although there are folk who mod the firmware who might be able to do something.

I have been using mine for the 7 mile ride to work with 1000ft ish of climbing and do it all in turbo. first round trip – full charge still on display. Second drops to 4, 3rd drops to 1 or 2 and cuts power. Its certainly not linear and shows some charge left when actually the voltage has dropped enough to mean full power is not available.

Most folk will not ride it like this tho I guess

Mine is showing 4 out of 6 bars remaining after 60km

Thats the difference between turning it up to 11 and not!

Full Member
Thats the difference between turning it up to 11 and not!

True! Anyway, have done 90km on initial charge and rather than risk it running out on the 25-30km ride back to work in the morning I’ve put it on charge 🙂

Having had mine on a power supply and adjusted the voltage, it sits on full bars until the battery is at about 50%.

My battery had a seperate indicator, which is fortunate (and theoretically a Bluetooth module but I can’t get the app to work.)

I can get 40 miles but not pushed it further than that

My battery had a seperate indicator,

I’ve just remembered that mine has too! I should probably have checked that 🙂

I’m going to time how long it takes to fully charge and that should give me a rough idea of how much capacity I used.

Did anyone try the Indiegogo thing that was posted? Seems like it would be lighter and a bit less “wirey”.

Did anyone try the Indiegogo thing that was posted? Seems like it would be lighter and a bit less “wirey”.

I didn’t look to be honest

Oh and it turns out that I can fit a bottle cage thanks to a zip tie 🙂

Fat boy fat. It’s a much smaller battery and not the most powerful motor

I find that the indicator on the battery behaves similarly in that the last bit disappears quickly

I find that the indicator on the battery behaves similarly in that the last bit disappears quickly

Its because these things base the indicator on the voltage of the battery, and the voltage does this during discharge:

So not much use then as an indicator of charge.

Electric cars and more intelligent devices have more intelligent battery management, that will understand the usage so far, the current drawn over time and will make much better estimates based on how long it lasted last time etc.

To be fair, the last bar on the battery scale is 0-49% so it’s not THAT helpful 🙂

Although I tend to recharge when I feel the assistance drop off

Quick 500km update…

All good so far. I’ve got it wet, I’ve got it muddy and it hasn’t skipped a beat. Power delivery is lovely and smooth, it is just like riding a normal bike but with a nice tailwind 🙂
I did use self amalgamating tape over the connections between the battery & motor, hopefully that’ll help keep moisture out. The battery connection to the frame has been rock solid.

Be nice if it assisted at higher cadences but I’m getting used to using a gear or two higher than I usually would. I’ve been charging once a day (so after 50-70km depending on route)

The only real niggle is the q-factor – it is huge and also offset to the drive side. I will probably try a Shimano steps rh crank arm to even things up a bit.

Somebody asked about the Italian indiegogo, I am on this, eta is now Jan. Have high hopes for it as a lightweight battery efficient assistance. I’m getting a custom ISIS shaft with the kit to fit the supplied 104bcd freewheel cranks onto my fatbike HT2 BB.

ETA tjagain, its equivalent 90nm and they have batteries up to 840wh, although I will source UK batteries for mine. Aiming for 1.6kg motor plus 3ish kg 500wh battery myself.

Ref q factor – can’t say I’ve really noticed it.. apparently the bafang crank arms bring it in a bit. Mines a 63mm BB – small spacer on the DS so the drive cover doesn’t hit the EBB body, and the rest of the spacers on the NDS.

I also had to get creative with cut down roofing bolts to secure the torque arm

richardthird

Ta for the info – I obviously either muddled it up with something else or didn’t get all the info.

I don’t notice the q factor at all but then I don’t on the fatbike either. Maybe one of those things some folk notice and some do not?

Tech is moving quick on these isn’t it!

remember there is a hidden setting to adjust the torque sensor sensitivity.

Is that the setting that is set as 16 by default?

yes

16 is 16 amp current limit. You can go higher but risk burning it out. Depends what battery is rated at as well.

No its not. I have seen this myth online but its not so

What this setting does is adjust the sensitivity of the torque sensor. As standard on 16 you only get max power out of the motor when pedalling hard. the higher the number you set it to the more sensitive the torque sensor is. Turn it right up and it acts like a cadence sensor ie turn the pedals with no force and you get max power out of the motor immediately. I have mine turned up a bit. Its still progressive in power output but you get max power out of the motor when you are peddling with normal cruising force. turn it down and you need to really jump on the pedals to get the motor to produce max power

Adjusting this setting does NOT change the power output of the motor at all – it just alters the relationship between the torque you put on the pedals and the torque the motor puts out but you still have the same max torque output.

800 miles in. Lockring came off on a ride over xmas. Tapped up tight with a drift and some loctite.

All the nuts holding the battery tray together rattled lose – fortunately they stayed captive, but bit random,.

Chain is about 60% worn, which is impressive.

However, its knocking – i thought it was the motor moving slightly, but all tight. Turns out its the BB bearings as there is play in the crank.

So need to work out how to replace those, without messing up the torque sensor or the wiring.

Just discovered this:

https://www.electrifybike.com

They do some smart TSDZ2 bits, including a nice display:

https://www.electrifybike.com/store/p157/SW102.html#/

and some lights

https://www.electrifybike.com/store/p70/TSDZ2_Light_Set.html#/

and also some nice, albeit pricey, chainrings

Bummer on the BBbearings. I am at almost 1000 miles now with no problems – used in turbo on the road

I am fairly sure spares are available.

I’ve seen a vid on YouTube of someone changing bearings. Mine hasn’t been used for a while, been off the bikes.