All I can say is I never had any issues with the chain skipping or dropping from the front apart from when I had a sunrace chain on a sram block which tho both 9spd did not mesh properly.

Id go for a new chain and cassettee from the same manufacturer and see

I put a new NW ring on ,chain and cassette and if I stomp while in the 11T it will slip.
So gently does it.

@zippykona what NW ring did you get? I see you can get down to 34t (110BCD 5 bolt) on it, but not seen anything NW that is dished like the chain ring that it’s come with. If I get a non-dished chainring (original 42t or smaller) will it be a problem??

Sorry for all the questions. It’s doing my head in 😞

Dished rings for the B motor are rare if not non existent. I’ve gone for a flat 36 t. The chain line isn’t brilliant but I rarely go in the low gears.
I bought one of these….
Hope Retainer Ring – 110 BCD (5 Bolt)
I needed to file a tiny chamfer on the arms to stop it hitting the plastic motor cover.

Cheers, I’ll look at that,once I’ve sorted the rear issue out.

Mine drops the chain occasionally but not enough for me to have bothered doing anything about it.

I’ve been in Cambridge, Canterbury and London over the last week and they are all full of Deliveroos whizzing round on home builds on the throttle everywhere. Makes me want to fit a kit to my old Cinder Cone 😄

It lives!

I replaced the cassette (I’m still sure the other one is fine) and the rear derailleur (pretty old and battered) and it’s all working grand. I’m convinced it was actually the RD as shifting and everything is spot on now too.

Trying it out up and down the road top gear(42*11) in turbo gives 35kph just soft pedalling (obviously with restriction turned off). Might a get a proper ride in later….

Well my usual 25min round trip to the shop for milk and bits only took 14mins in turbo mode, but was no effort compared usual especially with a head wind there. I’m not planning on using that level as a rule (probably tourer level), but it was fun to see what it was like and definitely useful for the ‘shit we’ve got no milk’ moments 🤣

I see that upping the resistance number higher than 16 (I upped it to 22) can risk burning stuff out, is that right? If so I think I’ll drop it back to 16 and see ho that feels.

@tjagain can you comment on this? Or anyone else.

I see online that upping the resistance number higher than 16 (I upped it to 22) can risk burning stuff out, is that right? If so I think I’ll drop it back to 16 and see how that feels.

Is it upping the amps (as you said back in the thread) or the torque sensitivity? My googlefu is failing to give a conclusive answer.

its the torque sensor sensitivity on the one I had but often confused by folk

I don’t see how it can cause any harm.  You can hack the software to increase amperage however

Cheers👍

I’m not going to be hacking the firmware, not my thing, and I’d probably mess it up. I have the 48v 20amp battery, but tbh that doesn’t mean anything to me other than it’s more powerful.

I’ll maybe leave the setting at 22 and see how it goes.

I’m half way through fitting a kit to my bike. Thanks TJ et al for the tips on this thread.

I can’t get the light output to work. Have a y-cable that plugs into cable going to the speed magnet sensor. Motor is on and working but there’s no voltage on the light output. I was expecting 6V.

Is there some fiddling I need to do on the controllor (I’ve got a VLCD6) to get the light output switched on?

Dunno sorry

Its perhaps something in the hidden menu – have yo found that?

Tongsheng TSDZ2 VLCD6 Display Manual

Tongsheng TSDZ2 VLCD5 Display manual

Gratuitous photos attached to test new image upload functionality

Its perhaps something in the hidden menu – have yo found that?

No, can’t find it on my control. It’s only got 3 buttons so the VLCD5 instructions don’t apply directly. The wheel size setting I have found.

To follow up on my light issue – it was in the manual and I’d managed to skim past it…

The function of the “assist – ” button
Assist down: Short press the button to lower the assist level.
Press and hold the button for 2 seconds will turn on the LCD backlight and headlight (if fitted).

Nearly a year and less than 300 miles and I’m really lacking in power.

Changing power setting only makes a very small difference.

Even on max I struggle to hit the limiter.

It’s the 250b motor and I put the smaller controller on it 150 miles ago.

Would going back to the big telly screen display make any difference?

Any other ideas?

Check the batter terminals / wiring?  I had an underpower fault and it was a crap connection.

Thanks, I’ll give that a go.