A little reading suggests its common and is poor tolerance in the shell/bearing.

I currently can barely get to my workbench in my shed as it’s full of decorating equipment, a door and a half started kids bike project (and a Jeffsy with no shock fitted that’s a pain to move)

Need to sort that lot out and then I’ll get the Rig on the stand and take the BB apart and report back 🧐

Someone was asking about sealing on these. I took the side cover off – the bit that covers the electronics and motor and was impressed that it had a proper o ring seal in the cover.

I read somewhere they are IP44?

Well, the shed is tidy and I have a list of bikes to spanner, so hopefully I can get the bike apart and work out what I need to do.

It’s working fine though, but definitely needs some general TLC. I think several months of wet commutes hasn’t done it much good 😉

After a new offset 42 max chainring. Has anyone seen a source that isn’t £85?!

I thought they took standard chainrings or are you looking to have a different chainline?

You can, but they come stock with an offset chainring to improve the chainline

Ah – I just had a good look at mine and you are right

Superstar sell them for about £30 to £35 but depends on which fitment it is their stocks look low. Could be worth emailing to ask about availability.

The superstar chainrings are 4 Bolt and it looks like the offset is in the thickness / bolts rather than at the teeth to clear the motor

Did you ever get round to changing the bearings on yours @tim ?
Mine are in need of replacing now.

simon – has it got worse? Mine had a tiny bit of play from ew that felt like a knbackered BB but 1000 miles on its still the same

I’ve only just noticed the play @tjagain to be fair. Was just cleaning chain & cassette and fitting a new gear cable and brake pads.

Will keep an eye on it.

simondbarnes
Full Member
Did you ever get round to changing the bearings on yours @tim ?
Mine are in need of replacing now.

Disassembly is fairly easy, just be careful with the torque sensor assembly. The bolts are a bit cheesy / shallow so take care.

I didn’t do anything with the torque sensor but replaced the LH BB bearing and the sprag clutch.

The BB bearing is really easy as the tolerances are shite so it just floats on the axle and in the shell. I used a fair amount of retaining compound and made a big difference.

If you want to replace the sprag clutch you need to remove the final drive gear. I needed to use a gear puller to remove it, using the spider to pull on.

The sprag clutch needed pressing out on a fly press at work. If you have access to any sort of press or bearing puller it should be fine. I wouldn’t smash it out.

Give me a shout if you need help

Cheers 🙂

Oh:

Final drive comes off first as the gear puller pushes on the end of axle, then the circlip can come off and the BB assembly comes out of the LH side.

I’ve put another 1000km on it and play hasn’t got noticeably worse so can hopefully avoid tinkering with it for a while 🙂

Stealth ad
I’ve a tongsheng kit and battery for sale .
The motor has a fault which I believe to be a broken torque sensor so will be cheap for spares
Pm if of interest

Approx. 1800 miles and mines developed a fault. Pulsing noise rather than whine when under load.

Stripped it apart and the ceramic torque sensor ring has cracked. Possibly as a result of clumsiness when I stripped it down to change the bearing but could have been a fault from new that’s steadily got worse. It shouldn’t have any impact through it but it could be general shock and vibration.

New sensor ring on order from PSW power for £17 delivered.

Cartwheels – you can buy a whole torque sensor assembly new for about £65, but it may just be the sensor ring as above. AliExpress is your friend

simondbarnes
Full Member
I’ve put another 1000km on it and play hasn’t got noticeably worse so can hopefully avoid tinkering with it for a while 🙂

There is some float / backlash in the assembly from new, and the tolerance isn’t great so some seem to float more than others. The LH BB bearing tolerance is particularly poor.

I would watch out though as it appears that too much bearing play could mean the torque assembly is damaged as it could rub/bind.

I am going to experiment with something better than retaining compound to improve the BB bearing tolerance, but need to be careful with the housing as the bearing sits alongside the spline for the torque sensor so I don’t want to foul that.

Cartwheels – if not, how much are you looking for as is?

Tjagain, Tim, SB, what do you think a year or so on? s a spin off from the other thread on EB’s, I’ve got a couple of 26’ers I could convert, rather than shell out for a new bike to commute on. I imagine electric bikes will sell out very quickly.

I don’t use mine as much but it still works as good as new, battery still has the same life.  I think they are great bits of kit.

the only thing to watch is they don’t fit all frames – sometimes they clash on the chainstays if the bike is set up for clearance for fat tyres

Still happy with mine. It’s done around 4500km. Even survived me falling off it on the way home from work on Friday.

@tjagain would you care to elaborate on adjusting the torque settings?

Its in a hidden menu you get to with a pattern of button pushes.  What it does is adjust the sensitivity of the torque sensor so you effectively vary the amount of pressure you need to put on the pedals to get the same output from the motor.  It does not change the actual torque output – just the relationship between the pressure on the pedals and the output of the motor.  turn it right up its like a cadence sensor motor – touch the pedals and the motor runs flat out.  turn it right down and you have to put a lot of effort in to get the max output from the motor.  5.4 in this manual

Tongsheng TSDZ2 VLCD5 Display manual

Sorry dude its not showing properly on here.  Ive added some spaces in the URL

https      ://www      .ebikechoices .com/tongsheng-tsdz2-v5lcd-display-manual

turn it right up its like a cadence sensor motor – touch the pedals and the motor runs flat out. turn it right down and you have to put a lot of effort in to get the max output from the motor. 5.4 in this manual

I’ve just tried this. Seems to make bugger all difference whether it is set to 5, 16 (default) or 32 (max)

made an obvious differnce to me.  at 32 you get full output from the motor even with minimal pressure on the pedals, turned down you need a lot of effort to get full output

It doesn’t alter the total output – just how its delivered

at 32 you get full output from the motor even with minimal pressure on the pedals

I definitely didn’t get that

did you have it on turbo?  Its more obvious tho it works in every setting.  when I say full power its full power for the power setting you have it on

Yes, had it on turbo.

I’ve just looked at the manual again at it says I should have a range for that setting of 6-35. I can do 0-32. Maybe mine is faulty?

who knows?  Maybe you got into another hidden setting?  Odd.  After fiddling I left mine on standard anyway

Yeah, a bit odd. It also doesn’t show me which software version it’s on. Oh well. It rides really nicely so I’m not fussed. It’s always felt underpowered on steep stuff but other than that has been great.

Just got the newer 500w B version to add to my old hard tail with the 48v 20amp battery as a birthday present to help my knackered knees and heart.

Got it mainly fitted last night, but need to figure out how to tidy up all the excess cable (can you cut just cut, rejoin, and tape?) Also need to mount the best of a battery better as my bottle bosses are totally in the wrong place.

Will maybe get some pics up later when it’s done and I’ve tried it out.

I tucked the excess cable behind and below the BB.

I ended up with a strap around the battery to supplement the mountings for offroad.  One frame I had it on I added extra mounts to the frame – an extra rivnut

Where did you get the new motor from?  I was thinking of getting one

Cheers. I just got it off Amazon Tongsheng B

Got it all fitted and the unit is working fine. Upped the sensitivity to 22 for now based on your posts.

The issue I’m having now is the chain is skipping on the rear mech under load and I can’t understand why. The chain is new (but not a main brand chain), the cassette (11-42) is practically new (maybe 50km on it) and it was all working well before. I think the chain was a bit lose before so shortened it, but no difference.

Any ideas?

I always have a cover over the battery so just ended tucking the excess wire under that.
Didn’t use throttle or brake sensors and have just got a small controller that sits next to the lever. A lot neater.

Yeh I’m not using the throttle or brake sensors. Just battery cable, display cable, and speed sensor.

Not been able to resolve the skipping chain under load. I’m considering a new cassette and RD (pretty old), but before I buy I was wondering if anyone else had had these issues.

Also been dropping the chain on the front. Can you get a narrow/wide tongsheng chain rings (I see the original is dished) or am I best looking for a chain guide? Not sure the old FD will fit back to act as one without rebundling my cables or what range it will allow.

This is all 10speed btw. Any advice appreciated as this carryon has really been taking the shine off getting it. I’m buggered, stressed and don’t need to be spending more money unless it will fix it.

Ta.