Removing a square taper crank arm, drive side.

The threads are stripped out of the drive side crank arm so the extractor tool will not screw in, how do I remove it?

I say with a big hammer but what do you say.?

Edit, the cranks will be going in the bin afterwards.

I await the answer as have the same issue.
Answers may well be.
Take bolt out and ride till it falls off.
Or use a bearing puller.

3 legged puller thing

http://motorcycleproducts.co.uk/catalogue/puller-legged-75mm-length-arms-ideal-for-bearings-p-56707.html

Remove chainrings and using a hacksaw cut a deep slot over the axle at an angle so you dont touch the frame. When you are 90% through, insert large screwdriver or cold chisel and wiggle it, just a little bit.

Well yes ,but no good if you want to use the crank again .I have this problem on a tandem where I need to get the crank off and helicoiled cos its new chainset otherwise.

cutting through a BB axle takes ages, and I managed to get through 2.5 blades in the process when i did it a week ago…

this combo works,
hit at the base of the crank arm coming in from the other side, ie looking from the non drive side knocking it off the axle

If you can get the non drive side off then take the BB out with the crank still attached. You might even be able to extract the BB once it is on the bench

How do you get the tool on the drive side cup then? unless the right crank comes off?

Edric, read the OP’s post – The cranks are going in the bin. That is why I proposed a destructive method. FFS.

Hammer and ball joint splitter

proper destructive I would go [ I would expect to knacker the BB shaft though]

Float, obviously you wouldn’t cut the very hard BB axle, you cut the soft alluminium chainset, split it and bin it.

How do you get the tool on the drive side cup then? unless the right crank comes off?

You won’t get a socket tool on but you might get a C-spanner on or use a hammer and brass drift

I’d be tempted to try sawing the crank arm off and using an old-style nut splitter, though the one I have is a bit small…

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht246-nut-splitter-set?da=1&TC=SRC-nut%20splitter

I asked a similar question the other day. I ended up getting mine angle ground off.

Took all of 10 seconds.

Float, obviously you wouldn’t cut the very hard BB axle, you cut the soft alluminium chainset, split it and bin it.

obviously… 😳

Put a heat gun to it. Then bash with hammer and wood.

you need to use the right tools for the job.
a hammer and some welly.

not much more satisfying than taking a run up, windmilling your hammer and sending those crappy cranks flying across the garage, through the wall and back to the 1980s where they belong.

I know he was binning them I was trying to suggest something else in case anyone else like me needs to save a crank and get it helicoiled

I’ve always liked to use eithe a puller but don’t always seem to fit well.
The ball joint splitter works well ( it’s the fork shaped thing in the pic above )

A bit of heat always helps

And if all else fails you can just take out the crank bolt and ride for a bit till it falls off

I asked the same question recently as I had the same problem, in the end I used Plus-Gas, a heat gun and a crowbar to jar the arm off.

I’ve usually wanted to save the crank & replace the BB in which case an angle grinder with one of the 1mm fine stainless cutting discs is through the axle in seconds & the taper has then always knocked out easily. If for some reason you wish to save the BB it’s just a more tedious job to saw the crank arm.

Hitting the crank may twist/crack your frame. Always cut the crank and ease it off. Don’t grind it for ages though, heat transmits through it to your frame. Same with blow torches.

take the other side off and remove the bb cup. it should be attached to the body of the bracket, so the arm on the non drive side will pull off as it winds out.

the only reason to bin cranks is if the peddle threads are jazzed or the taper is rounded.