Plunge sawyers, how are you getting on?

Is that basically using a big plinth as a drawer?

On the non wall side, eventually another cabinet will got in, so that side will need to stay flush.

Yeah big drawer plinth is a better description. You could match the design for the other one if desired.

Same project, these cabinet carcasses are goung to be 1200mm boxes.

Which I dont have Clamps for that size, what are the best options for this? Parallel Clamps?

Parallel Clamps?

Even the cheaper axminster range you’re looking at 70 quid a pop.

Axminster trade sash cramps less than 1/2 that.

https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-trade-clamps-sash-clamp-1-370mm-505580

And the good thing about bar clamps is unlike the t bar you can easily join them together.

Just found these though. but its a pack of 4 for 160 smackeroos.

https://www.rutlands.com/sp+workholding-parallel-jaw-clamps-parallel-jaw-clamps-parallel-jaw-clamps-1200mm-x-95mm-pack-of-4-rutlands+r3016x4

If I’m making something big then I screw a couple of bits of 2×3 to the bench (or a sheet of timber) parallel and a bit wider apart than the thing, so around 1250 in your case. Then cut some wedges. Push one side of the job against one batten and use pairs of wedges to fill the gap to the other batten. Hammer or clamp the wedges together to clamp the job. Easy to keep it square and flat.

Same project, these cabinet carcasses are goung to be 1200mm boxes.

Which I dont have Clamps for that size, what are the best options for this? Parallel Clamps?

Are these carcass sides going to be hidden?
If so, screw and glue them together. Don’t need clamps then.
Failing that, maybe counterbore and plug the screws.

I’ve got quite a few of the Rutlands clamps and I’m a fan. Don’t have any parallel clamps, just your regular Record pattern sash clamps.
Good value from there.

Another way of clamping big stuff if you’ve not got clamps is a method using long timber sections and blocks.
You’ll have to excuse the terrible fat finger phone sketch but like this.

Use a stout section of timber or ply that spans the width and then some. Screw a block on each side up against the clamping edges using a single, central screw.

Now tap one of the blocks along the edge. This has the effect of shortening the span and clamping together.

I’ve used this method a few times and it can work well though of course you don’t have as much fine direction control as with proper clamps.

What kayak23 says
Or http://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/prodzoom/REC130N.jpg

These carcasses are basically learning projects where quality if finish is secondary to learning how stuff goes together and end use functionality.

The room they are going in, is on the ground floor/basement (house in on a slope). And already resembles a garden shed interior.

The cabinets are intended to replace the current storage stacks of tote boxes 3×3 similar to these.

https://www.bigdug.co.uk/storage-boxes-containers-c363/euro-containers-c418/attached-lid-containers-p14027

The corner cabinet is going to be double height, two carcasses stack on top of each other.

The other two cabinets, currently I think are going to be two Tote boxes wide and one box high. Maybe…

Im building the cabinets to fill the same floor space as the Tote Boxes as that is how much room is available.

Are these carcass sides going to be hidden?
If so, screw and glue them together. Don’t need clamps then.
Failing that, maybe counterbore and plug the screws.

Is that basically, getting each corner squared, and work your way around each corner?

Id thought about parallel clamps as i have a project lined up where a reversed clamp might be useful.

I’ve just built myself a wall cabinet 1200 x 1050 out of 18mm mr mdf (basically a big box with shelves and overlay doors). Didn’t use any clamps just assembled carefully and glued and screwed using a square thing and measuring diagonals as kayak suggests. It’s square within a mm or 2 which is is Ok for this application as the walls are less flat and square than that.

I used 3.5mm 40mm spaxs screws for the 18mm but drilled pilot holes first otherwise the edges are likely to split. Other issue I’ve had is you don’t want glue that sets quicker than you can build the piece. You want yo be able to assemble, check the whole thing and adjust if needed. Forbthe size you’re talking about having 2 people is a big help.

The screw holes are invisible if you fill and sand carefully.

To hell with it, life’s too short etc etc.

And theres a 15% off on ebay currently so I pulled the trigger on a Festool TS55FEBQ plunge saw. Came in at £364.

I’d 80 quid sitting in Paypal from a couple of bike bit sales the other day on retrobike. Brought my outlay down to a very acceptable amount.

Just a rail or 2 to get and thats that sorted 😀

Nice

It wont just be a rail or two, youll want a couple of track clamps and no doubt, many other gadgets for it, and there are lots to WANT

Ive actually told my neighbour he might be prising his TS55 out of my cold dead hands.

Hang on, you posted at 1am?

Is that a beer purchase?

Budget’ish end of the scale, what’s the go to for a plunge saw?

I’m still kicking myself for not grabbing the ebauer one I saw on Gumtree locally for £35 a couple of months back, the feller had hardly used it, at the time I didn’t think I needed one, then two weeks later I needed to cut a load of 25mm ply down to size for a floor…

I’ve got a cheap S/H circular saw for rough work and a Titan Mitre but one of these would fill a big gap and suit a load of jobs I need to do in the next few months

Hang on, you posted at 1am?

Is that a beer purchase?

No, I bought it earlier, about 8pm.

I added it because theres been a number of interested parties in plunge saws and most were looking at Bosch and makita, which are not far off thanks to the 15% discount being about the same price as a festool. I think most given the choice would spend the little extra.

If you get the TS55 FEBQ-plus you get the saw and rail with the discount for £425. A bosch with 2 rails is £450. Even the fact the bosch has 2 rails is nothing compared to the quality of the festool in comparison.

.

I do have a life you know, other things, other forums. I dont rush in here to blab about what I’ve done this day moments after doing it 😆

It wont just be a rail or two, youll want a couple of track clamps and no doubt, many other gadgets for it, and there are lots to WANT

Yup 😆

I’ll need the Parallel side fence next. at £155 😆

But in all honesty i dont mind adding to things as we go. Its getting the meat of it out the road first then the add on bits arent such a strain on the bank balance. I’ll pick up the parallel side fence in a couple of months time.

So, after quite a bit of bodged set ups in this space ive changed what I want to do, and do seem pretty settled hiw I want the item to work so can start drawing up plans (by which i mean badly scrawl freehand)

First of which is basically a chest if drawers measuring 1380w 710d 690h which in which I want 3 vertical dividers, with 3 drawers in each section. One shallow, medium and deep drawer in each section.

Actually at this point I dont know what im doing well enough to know what im asking. 🤣 And theres a fair chance

Is there anything likely to catch me out with this layout?

The top will sit on the ends/dividers, and have a slight overhang to sit on the back so I can use thick ply for the back to help rigidity. The back and dividers will also sit on the bottom sheet of ply. One end wont be visible at all, the other mostly hidden.

Will this want some additional bracing somewhere to keep it rigid?

If you’re looking for clamps to square up the corners of units, these are worth a look… Corner Clamps