Plunge sawyers, how are you getting on?

https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/v-tuf-vtm1-m-class-mini-15l-800w-dust-extractor-inc-accessories

Any particular reason not to?

I’m limited on space. I’m also not a heavy user, this is solely intended for dust collection.

Which I may or may not change my mind on at a later date.

They’re supposed to be good those, but they’ve not got a power take-off have they?
It’s very handy to have.

I have the Titan one like this. It’s good. Very sucky.

I’ve have looked at those, but the size is a big issue for the space itll live in.

Yeah, if you’re not bothered about power take off then I expect it’ll perform very well.

I’ve also got a Festool ctl sys which is small systainer size. Lives under my bench.
Obviously that’s not got as much capacity and is expensiverer.

I wouldn’t get one without power take off. Not since getting one.

I’ve got the evolution one R15vac which is about £85-90, has the power take off. Seems to work OK if you want a compact kind of thing. Power take off is game changer it just means I use it more. Works really well with the plunge saw.

Functionally only gripe is the hose is fairly short so will probably replace at some point. Definitely budget end tool wise so cables and finish reflect that.

I can’t see a filter rating for that Evolution R15, I’ll be cutting sheet materials including MDF so believe I really want Class M?

It comes with L but you can buy L or M filters.

I’m a DIYer and I figure the L provides a makred improvement over none so I’ll go with that. Also once the filter is loaded with mdf I’m not sure what the real world difference would be between thoe two options.

I’ve also got a Festool ctl sys which is small systainer size. Lives under my bench.
Obviously that’s not got as much capacity and is expensiverer.

Seem to be amazingly expensive now. I bought the smallest wheeled CTL thing a few years back – think it was around £250 back then. They all seem to start around £500 now. I fancy the Systainer thing to sit under the chop saw, but not at £500+.

If the power take off isn’t an issue then I think the £45 Titan is a newer version of mine. Cheap and lasted long enough that I’m very happy.

I’ve got the Titan too: seriously battered in 6 months but it wont die. It is big. I will replace it with something smaller. And yes: PTO is just great! I wouldnt go back.

I got the Titan with the PTO for Xmas. I got it for cleaning up swarf from my mini lathe. I didn’t think I needed the PTO but it’s been really useful e.g. sanding my 25 year old knife block before oiling it, instead of the garage being a dusty mess there was just sawdust in the can. Highly recommended if you can make some space.

I can’t see a filter rating for that Evolution R15, I’ll be cutting sheet materials including MDF so believe I really want Class M?

It comes with L but you can buy L or M filters.

M Class machines aren’t necceassily filtering to a finer degree – in most cases L class and M class machines have the same filters inside. The difference between L and M  (apart from a few hundred quid and a sticker) is that an M class machine has is an alarm to tell you that suction has been reduced – pretty much to tell you that the bag is full… thats it really.

I fancy the Systainer thing to sit under the chop saw, but not at £500+.

The whole point of them is they’re really portable – they’re for carrying in and out of job sites- kind of defeats the point to hook them up to static tools at home. A friend uses on because he travels to jobs by taxi so he needs to carry his whole workshop with two hands. They’ve got bugger all capacity  – unlike most extractor they dont have wheels so although they”re portable in the sense that they’re easy to carry when not in use – they limit your movement a bit when they actually are in use

I fancy the Systainer thing to sit under the chop saw, but not at £500+.

It’s not £500, its £275. (If thats the mini extractor in a systainer you’re meaning). Has power take off, quite handy i thought. OK expensive, but everything Festool is expensive. Holds its price though, works as it should and gives years of service.

I’ve gone it’s the V Tuf mini, mainly as the dimensions are a perfect fit for the available space.

I’m going to try and sort a remote control plug for it, a few of the tools it’ll be used with are cordless too so not sure PTO can be made to work with those, certainly not with the tools I have.

Is there a standard way to handle inside corners? That last bit on both cuts the track saw leaves – was assuming ubiquitous YouTube instructions but not found anything yet.

Japanese saw is okay, not yet tried turning over the wood to plunge from t’other side…

Is there a standard way to handle inside corners?

Depends how fine you want the finish – the chippie doing all the birdmouths on our roof timbers finished off with a battery powered jigsaw.

Obs for cabinetry you might want a nicer finish and use chisels / or a router etc.

I tend to finish it with a jigsaw away from the edge I want, then pare down to a crisp corner with a chisel.

So that’d be tracksaw with finish side up and then turn over for jigaw? Cut away from intended edge as are no precise lines, then turn back over and chisel?

I tend to finish it with a jigsaw away from the edge I want, then pare down to a crisp corner with a chisel.

^^ As above.

You shouldn’t need to turn it over. If you use the jigsaw far enough off the line, it wont be effected by breakout. Besides a jigsaw cuts on the down stroke, so breakout should be minimized anyway.

Thanks! Off to the shed…

If you mess it up its Kayak’s fault 😉

I will check which my my jigsaw cuts 😜

I use one of these switches and a cheap 1500w titan from screwfix. Great for battery powered tools or if you don’t want to spend too much. I have the vacuum set up under my workbench with the hose clipped on to the side of the bench and the switch is clipped in to it’s bracket next to the hose. The switch can be unclipped easily for doing work away from the bench. I have the same again in my van for the big saws, routers etc. 2 vacuums, 2 switches were approx £110.

Jigsaw blades are usually “cut up” meaning they leave a ragged cut on the upper face. This is a safety feature: the saw is pulled into the workpiece. A cut down blade, BR101, in the hands of an inexperienced user will bounce off and cause all sorts of damage. You need to apply constant pressure. I used to have some blades that had a cut up section at the very top and the rest was cut down. It left a neat cut both sides but I’ve never found any since.

Bosch T101 AO cut perfect both sides, good for laminates etc. Excellent for tight radius circles also. They are shorter than usual blades but I have never had a problem with that.

The Bosch T308BF are the blades which cut on the upstroke underneath the wood, and on the downstroke on top of the wood, good for laminate worktops.

Thanks for the find!

Is there a standard way to handle inside corners?

It will depend on what you are making and what finish you want. A sharp corner isn’t usually a good idea. If it is just rough I use a pull saw or jigsaw, if it is a finished edge then I usually aim to have a radiused corner. Clamp on a template corner and follow route it. Having a radius makes adding a pencil rad or chamfer much easier too.

Is there a standard way to handle inside corners?

It will depend on what you are making and what finish you want. A sharp corner isn’t usually a good idea

Good point actually.
Always difficult to clean up sharp corners well.

I quite often drill a nice hole with a forstner bit so it spans the corner, then tracksaw up to the apex on each side.
You get a lush corner that way.
You still have to wisp the last bit away with something but it works well.
Like this router jig for a finger pull, but a corner instead of a cut out.

Concealed hing jigs, any in particular worth buying?

Or just buy that Krek one!

Soss hinge or kitchen hinge?

I’ve never used a jig for kitchen hinges apart from an old tatty bit of mdf withe 3 pilot holes in.
Soss hinge will definitely need a jig

Kitchen hinge, im ham fisted so dome sort of jig will be needed. Even if it needs making.

Just make your own some hinge manufacturers differ by a few mm. Get a cutter with a depth stop built in

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165393056569?hash=item268231c339:g:uaIAAOSwWcZiNz3D&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4DjZSzib0Z41DQ%2B%2B0bxG1Wy4CPVzVHoda7eb%2FXZb%2BkkG5EMbzKz2iT7E2SvLrMm0fwfWofl3KwI7P2WhWh6AtU2co2qbrn8WH6rGmQJ%2BSify97wtl0sYk0EkQtqAXM3zngFbnY1eo6sOq1ncDh7ph9r6b6Sl3NtUdrLNvYf8ILNFK65sAwX0wv6L20GpLjdtDfcLmkTt5wkS8lMXCZpWivFZDzX4Jl1Ecno1O4n45c1mqZ8ZnJpvZjZDx6RfGB7XJyWLrE5gp6AGaqWDdZRTyAQu3VEMDrEEnzJmjev3lv1J%7Ctkp%3ABFBM7uS62KRg

Ok for the price

Kitchen hinge, im ham fisted so dome sort of jig will be needed.

I’ve been using one of these:

and one of these

More questions…

I’m building a cabinet (actually 2 stacked) the cabinet is going to be heavy when built and used.

The cabinet is going into a corner with a 30cm high skirting board that also protrudes about 3cm (I’m really done with old houses…)

Is there a good way of fitting this close into both walls in the corner? I can’t think of anything that doesn’t compromise the strength of the basic box/exceeds my abilities. I don’t want too many things fixed to the walls.

Or am I better adding a bit more space to the side wall to make a usable space, either that or just scribing a fillet(?) to hide the gap.

And cheers all for the hinge guidance 👍

How about a cabinet from skirting up then a drawer unit besides the skirting? Unless this doesn’t go with the current design theme. Whatever gap is left can be filled with a face frame.
I have a similar challenge for my living room cabinets either side of the fireplace. In my case I think I’ll keep the cabinet away from the wall to give cable space.