Have we done fitting larch cladding recently?

We’ve rebuilt the boiler room/bike store and now time to fit the vertical T&G Siberian latch cladding. I’ve no experience of fitting external cladding so looking for any advice from the collective mind.
I’ve battened and counter battened, have read up a bit that the options are to nail (annular ring shank) or screw into pre-drilled holes. I’ve read that a gasket type seal between the larch and the batten is a good idea. Any advice appreciated and also any views on treating the larch once fitted, suitable osmo or alternative?
Many thanks

Aren’t you meant to leave it alone to weather? That’s the whole point of it

Qualifications: im a wood enthusiast diy’er and I’ve larch clad a shed, featheredge profile, fixed with stainless ring shank nails onto battens. I’ve also worked with cheap softwood t+g from wickes (saying that it cost more than the larch from the sawmill, but it was definitely “cheap carp”)

Comments:
Yes pre-drill holes whether nailing or screwing. Essential at board ends to avoid splitting when putting the fixing in, but should be done throughout at a diameter slightly larger than the fixing to prevent cracks when the wood contracts. Eg 3.65mm nail, 4.5mm drill.
Yes annular ring shank. Only key word missing from your spec is “stainless steel”. Essential. Sometimes described as austenitic.

Gasket seal? Sorry no idea.

Finish: I’m with wbo On this. Larch is an excellent choice of timber because it doesn’t need treatment to maintain its integrity and it’s beautiful as it weathers and silvers.

Things you haven’t mentioned:
Batch up/template the pre-drilling operation. Use templates/jigs to ensure consistent spacing. Use a story stick and/or mark up the battens to keep rows level and even as you work up.

Big thing: expansion. Wood moves. Lots! Predominately on the width of a board. To illustrate the point; You don’t want your timber to expand after fitting such that the gaps close up to nothing, and (more likely) you don’t want your timber to shrink after you fit it so the t+g joints turn into clear air. You need to judge the moisture content of the the timber as it arrives on site, vs the moisture content once it’s installed, and through the seasons. Chances are, the timber is air dried, which will make it a lot wetter (bigger) than it will be when fixed to a sunny wall. But if it’s kiln dried, it might be nearly as small as it’s gonna get. Judge the T+G board spacing appropriately.

Also, I live in a Norwegian wood house and have helped build a few bits and pieces. I’ve never used any kind of gasket attaching cladding. Nailed and screwed, normally the latter.

Yes pre-drill holes whether nailing or screwing. Essential at board ends to avoid splitting when putting the fixing in, but should be done throughout at a diameter slightly larger than the fixing to prevent cracks when the wood contracts. Eg 3.65mm nail, 4.5mm drill.

If you’re screwing rather than nailing – Stainless screws tend to be a bit soft and the heads easily get mashed – so pre-drilling with a clearance for the cladding helps prevent splitting But when you go to fix the boards its a good idea to pilot into the batten you’re fixing to as well (but obviously not wit the same over-size drill bit 🙂 )

Thanks all, comments greatly appreciated.

Aren’t you meant to leave it alone to weather? That’s the whole point of it

It’s one point, tbh I think it looks kinda shit when it’s grey, and a nice coat of something clear keeps it looking nice. Just my opinion.

If you really don’t like it going grey then I’d buy something else that won’t go grey and save myself a huge amount of money – it’s more expensive than most anything else, and there’s only one reason to spend the extra.

I would agree there is a stage where they look terrible for a couple of years before they look good, you just have to suck that up.

Ah, maybe I just haven’t seen any reach the good bit yet!.

The initial plan was Canadian cedar cladding, but it is now OMG expensive hence move to Larch. Trying to get a plan in place for the corners (the timber will be clad vertically), guessing ripping a 45 degree edge will be a better option compared to butting two pieces together.