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First fat bike
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zippykonaFull Member
To save hours of Google how much lighter are dt wheels compared to stock on one?
Denis99Free MemberDT rim is 675g
Depends on which Surly rim you go for , the Rolling Darryl is 860 g
Tubeless is the way to go though,
then there are light tyres and heavy tyres.
again the surly tyres are on the portly side.
whitestoneFree MemberMy wife has a Surly Wednesday, just weighed it – a tad (about 20g) under 17Kg! The front wheel is 3.75Kg on its own. She says it rides nicely, a bit slower on the uphills as you’d expect when compared with a 12Kg HT but nothing like you’d expect a bike of that weight to ride. The rims are lighter than the Mulefuts on my Puffin but my wheels as a whole are lighter by 750g or so.
Really not sure why Surly spec the 27tpi Nates though, the 120tpi versions are 350g lighter per tyre.
My fat bike’s name is “The Money Pit” 😆
monkeyboyjcFull Memberupgraded to Jumbo Jims, which I have been assured are a BIG improvement on the On One own brands on offer.
An upgrade only in weight, not in grip or puncture protection. JJ’s are a good summer tyre, but forget it when mud appears. I use the One one tyres in the winter and JJ’s for the one or two dryer months of the year.
n0b0dy0ftheg0atFree MemberNot sure I would upgrade to JJ liteskins for £100, I’d take the free pink Floaters and consider buying JJ snakeskins.
I often think the PX “upgrade” system for bike build components makes little sense, it many cases it’s worth taking a “free” option and buying the better component separately. You then either have a spare, or sell the one you decide not to keep and more likely than not reduce the overall bike cost.
sgn23Free MemberDecent wheels and tyres is what makes a good fatbike, particularly tubeless – this is the big let-down on the O-O as you could probably end up spending another £500 on decent wheel and tyres.
The OO Emmental wheels and Floater tyres may not be bling, but they are just fine for trail riding. With a bit of googling you can get them setup tubeless. Definitely not a requirement to upgrade from day 1.
tofu21Full MemberAfter having a play on an ice cream truck today, I hit “Go” on a Wednesday with DT rims and Hope hubs. With a bit of luck it will be ready for collection in a couple of weeks.
The ICT was great but was more bike than I needed and the Wednesday has cool things like internal dropper routing and a slightly more aggressive setup.
fatbikeandcoffeeFree MemberUnsurprisingly I find my farely new to me Rocky Mountain Blizzard a right laugh and as my only bike have no regrets. Yes it’s heavier, yes you can’t get all the bits you want instantly in LBS but I can’t help but grin every ride and it has amazed me the people constantly want to ask about the bike everywhere I go.
The Nutrails are a great option but many ships that advertised good deals on 2016 modems simply didn’t have them, OO and Canyon are always good value for money. As others have said watch for wheel spec as upgrades aren’t cheap but also look at tire clearance if that suit if thing worries you.
Whatever you get you’ll have a right laugh.
James
hummerliciousFree MemberI’ve just got myself an Ice Cream Truck, I wanted a ‘trail bike’ but didn’t want to buy a full sus. It’s a lot of fun to ride and seems to be able to handle anything I can dish out. Ultimately I will get a pair of Blutos for it, but I’m skint now!
It is a bit of a lump to get uphill, but it’s not too bad and bizarrely on my last ride I got a couple of PRs on climbs for some reason. The true fun happens when you turn round and head back down though, it’s way more maneuverable and nimble than it has any right to be!
Surly Ice Cream Truck by Jim Barrow[/url], on Flickr
Surly Ice Cream Truck by Jim Barrow[/url], on Flickr
cozzFree Memberawesome, first one in yellow I’ve seen, they have only just arrived in the UK I think
such a shame they now have 80 mm rims rather than the 100’s they were designed around
but a great colour
NorthwindFull Membermotozulu – Member
Tyres are sorted – upgraded to Jumbo Jims, which I have been assured are a BIG improvement on the On One own brands on offer.
They are but they’re basically summer tyres- the fatbike equivalent of a racing ralph. More than most bikes fatbikes live and die by their tyres. Tubeless is a gamechanger (fatbike flats suck balls) and in mud, all that girth becomes a problem and you need a good, toothy tyre to keep things working well.
But almost no complete bikes come with this sort of tyres, OE tends to mean light and fast, so it’s a good idea to budget for an upgrade. Minions or Bud/Lou for me, others are available. Bud/Lou might actually be the better set but for a trailbike the liveliness and feedback of the Minions is a big deal for me so I made the swap.
YMMV but I’d be looking for something that takes a 5 inch tyre. There’s no real drawback to having the capability, but for me being able to run a wide tyre is what makes a fat trailbike work, basically. More volume means you can run lower pressures without flatting- on 4.0s I had to run high pressure to keep the air in the tyres when riding harder, and that really meant the bike wasn’t working, hard fatbike tyres kind of defeat the purpose.
hummerliciousFree MemberThe blue ones were sold out ages ago Cozz, I ended up waiting for the new one to come into stock. It’s so much fun to ride, I’m sure I won’t miss 20mm of rim width.
speedstarFull MemberNutrail, Lou and Nate. Simply brilliant. Hope you find one as good!
vincienupFree MemberI liked my original OOF and love the Trail I replaced it with. I built mine up rather than buying a ‘build’ but would have been as well with the old X01 build (which was around 1500 full price) pricewise – but I prefer my choices.
Basically: X1400 crank, GX RD and cassette, X1 shifter, Lev, Guide RS’s, 180mm rotors, Bluto 120 RCT3, JRA Snowpigs (Mulefuts in s handbuild) and Nates (tubeless) RF Aeffect finishing kit.
The bike rocks. It’s not particularly slow to climb and it’s a riot to descend on or muck about in woods / trail centres etc.
The Surlys are built tough and with options. The Wednesday is s bike I’ve considered more than once. As Charlie says, you’re getting better frames, wheels and tyres rather than drivetrains and stuff for your money with them than you would other cheaper fatbikes. Fatty wheels and tyres are ruinously expensive coming from mainstream mountain biking and an obvious corner to cut for a cheap manufacturer.
Whether you want an ICT is up to you – everyone I know who’s bought one loves it, but a 5″ Fatty is a different bike than a 4″. Maybe look at a Beargrease or something ?
Personally out of the cheap options I’d go with the OnOne over the Voodoo, Dune etc – but expect to rebuild it. QC ain’t great and it’s more comfortable spannering im your kitchen than trailside…
NormalManFull Member@ hummerlicious
That ICT looks great. I loved the blue of the old one. But thst looks really good too.
MugbooFull MemberI’ve owned a Dune for a couple of months, its mostly upgraded but standard wheels and forks. On a recent ride I did a bike swap for Cotic Soul for a bit and it was horrible, bloody thing felt like a boneshaking bag of spanners. Needless to say my winter hardtail is up for sale and my mate is shopping for a fat bike!!
Apart from proper drop offs (they seem like a daft idea with rigid forks and tyres that will burp) it is capable of anything my full suss can do, although really rocky stuff hurts if I try and ride fast, a Bluto might fix that?
Tubeless Floaters here with 7psi, the rear shows signs of sealant after most good rides but holds air just fine. Before I went tubeless I ran them at 12psi and they were pingy and scary. I can’t compare them to other tyres but I’ve no complaints so far.
If anybody wants a Juggernaut for next summer give me a shout.
And if anybody has spotted a bargain Aeffect 170 please let me know.
dovebikerFull MemberWhilst fatbike tyres can be expensive, I get 2-3 years from a pair which is a whole lot more than I get from regular MTB tyres, so I don’t mind paying extra for something decent as they can literally be the difference between riding and walking
NorthwindFull MemberMugboo – Member
And if anybody has spotted a bargain Aeffect 170 please let me know.
I’ve got a set of 197 rear aeffect 170s to sell- but for a Dune you probably want the 170/177 version (that’s what I’ve got on my medium)
dansim81Free Memberi have a On One Fatty and a Fatty Trail and a Specialized Fatboy all great bikes and all very capable i run with a group 140mm to 160mm trail bikes and its anything they can do i wont be back to skinny tyres
RatterFree MemberCanyon Dudes, what are people riding in terms of sizes to height? I’ve spoken to Canyon twice now and one has said medium / one has said large. Their online calc isn’t working but I’m 6ft 32 inch inside leg and 61 cm reach. I’d say I’m an average 6ft guy based on other 6fters.
nedrapierFull Memberbizarrely on my last ride I got a couple of PRs on climbs for some reason
Same! More grip, you don’t skip out on ripples, roots and kipple, you don’t got hung up on little bumps, tyre deforms round them, you keep pedalling.
I’ll be trying the Puffin on some long rides soon. If it’s quicker/more efficient on 9, 10 minute climbs than a 29er, it’s probably good for SDW in a day, South Lakes 100.
It can’t be that straightforward, or Ian Leitch would have done his record double ride on a fatty. We’ll see! Maybe he’d have been quicker if he had. A ha ha ha. 😀
whitestoneFree Member@nedrapier – I’m finding that the increased traction works against you when you’re on smoother ground particularly if you’ve an aggressive tyre. I notice the difference between 45Nrth Husker Dus and Vanhelgas for example with the latter feeling very draggy.
I notice this on B+ vs 29er tyres as well – with 29er tyres on fire roads or tarmac I’m having to brake occasionally to let my wife catch up whereas with the B+ tyres I’m having to pedal like mad to keep up with her!
I’ve not tried the fat bike on longer ITT type rides but I have run B+ on one and it was hard work. Someone did last year’s Yorkshire Dales 300 on a fat bike – here’s their report.
nedrapierFull Memberagreed, it wouldn’t be a first choice for road climbs, but I was surprised to find myself rolling down a road next to a mate at the same speed, no pedaling, no braking – me on 4in Jumbo Jims, him on all rounder 26in tyres. Dunno what they were, not fast, not mud, not DH.
phy7tesFree Member@Ratter – I’ve just bought one, I’m a similar size to you. Bought a large and it’s spot on. I was expecting it to be a bit too big and that I’d put on a 40mm stem to make it fit better but it’s fine with the 60mm stem that it comes with. Awesome bike and awesome price on last years models at the moment!
boltonjonFull MemberCheers Whitestone – that’s my report 🙂
Fattys rule on everything 🙂
whitestoneFree Member@boltonjohn – I did think you guys were mad when I saw you at the start! Impressed that you finished TBH, quite a few scratched.
RatterFree Member@phy7tes scratched that fat itch. As of Monday I was going to buy a Cube Nutrail, as of now my budget has gone up 600 nicker but I’m getting a truly phenomenal deal through Canyon’s factory outlet.
Gone for the only dude they had in a Large which meant the SL but should be future proof for a good few years without a noggin of upgrades required.
Now I have 14 days to transfer the money and come up with an excuse why my budget almost doubled to the missus. Mind you she’s after a bike too so perhaps that would sweeten her up a bit.
boltonjonFull MemberToughest thing i’ve ever done Whitestone – but certainly need to do some more events like that – couldn’t get an entry for the HT500 – btu will do similar 🙂
whitestoneFree MemberPeak 200 (actually 230) and Cairngorm Loop come to mind as the most likely. Next up in difficulty would be the Lakeland 200 and the Cambrian Trail.
Nothing stopping you doing the HT550 as an ITT (or a pair/trio).
roverpigFull MemberIt is a bit of a lump to get uphill, but it’s not too bad and bizarrely on my last ride I got a couple of PRs on climbs for some reason.
Love the bike (I think I prefer the yellow to my blue one), but if you are setting PRs on a Bud/Lou combo you can’t have been trying that hard before 🙂
I found the ICT with JJs on to be a surprisingly good climber. Now I’ve put the Bud/Lou on for the winter I find that it can steamroller the descents, which is quite addictive, but boy do I pay for it on the climbs.
I had a similar experience with a B+ bike last year. I built it up in the summer with Trailblazer tyres and loved it. Then the winter came and the TBs started trying to kill me. So, I switched to Nobby Nics but found the extra drag ruined the fun. With the B+ the difference descending wasn’t enough to be worth the extra drag, so I sold it. With the ICT the descending is proper laugh out loud bonkers, but I still find the extra drag of the Bud/Lou a pain.
rocketmanFree Member…bizarrely on my last ride I got a couple of PRs on climbs for some reason
+ 1 it’s bizarre at first but simple reason is you’re not skidding.
Following the hordes of thin bikes around my local loop (looking for a way past) the most obvious thing is the small but relentless amount of slip-grip going on with skinny rear tyres. It’s happening all the time – every rock/pebble/root – and wastes the rider’s efforts, whereas fat tyres adapt to the surface and make every single pedal stroke count, going forwards all the time.
Upshot of this is that I’m usually in the top 30-40 of segments with 1000s of attempts and also have a few top 10s OF ALL TIME WOHHHHHHHHHHHHHH on some very hotly contested segments.
I can put some good times in on the HT/FS but I can never beat the fatty
boltonjonFull MemberYeah – considering the HT550 outside of the event but also quite scared of it!!! 🙁
SannyFree MemberBoltonjohn
That is a brilliant write up! You really do write well and made me laugh! Well done, sir!
Have you any more write ups you can point me to as I really enjoyed that one.
Cheers
Sanny
dovebikerFull MemberAnother aspect of fatbikes is the bomb-proof stability – it’s one of the few bikes I have every confidence of simply letting-it-go on descents and know that nothing will upset it on the way down – descending in the dark at 60kph is fun – my mates on regular MTBs never to be seen.
GoldiggerFree MemberWho’s got a canyon dude on here?
No thread is complete without pics..Have been looking at the Farley 9 for £1500 but now there’s a dude CF SL option for £1659
What’s the warranties/customer service like with canyon?
GoldiggerFree MemberJust looking at the weights of the dude and Farley 9, is it me or is the dude heavy for a carbon bike?
Dude CF 9 SL 13.10kg/28.82lbs
Trek Farley 9 13.98kg/30.82lbsCheezpleezFull MemberIt’s you. Carbon’s not going to save much more than a pound over aluminium on a sturdy hardtail frame.
bedmakerFull MemberI love my Dude! It’s a great bike, the spec is great for the money. A bonus is getting the DT Swiss wheels throughout the range – the best fat wheels bar none.
It really is a lot nicer to hikeabike than my steel Rohloff ftbike too..
I’m not too sure about weight Vs the Farley, but people pick it up the do some headscratching generallly 🙂
I love the stiffness under pedalling and steering yet it feels a lot less harsh then the OOF I had before.
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