Cheap 3d printer kits – Experiences?

It’s also really good for making shapes/models to then sand cast from.

Yes, that sounds fun. Is it possible to do that domestically? They have the facilities at school anyway though I think.

I’ve also been looking at rubber moulding. A bit more house-friendly.

Although again, uses for rubbery things are limited.

I guess I worry about the number of hours on the computer, vs running around outside and building treehouses, etc.

I’d probably not try Alu casting at home, but you could do pewter/white metal casting. A blow torch or even oven will melt it.

The 3D models do need a bit of sanding and prep to get them smooth enough to cast from. With ABS you can dip and brush them with acetone, which does a good job of smoothing the surfaces. A bit of sanding with 600/1200 wet and dry works too.

I’m using one all the time right now. I find it invaluable to convey the realness of an item to the client or end user. That’s not to say I’ve got one, I simply don’t have the time to set it up, calibrate it, get used to using it and get the best from it.

I use http://www.3dhubs.com to get stuff done locally.

Much more time efficient and cost effective than putting my own money into something of limited practical use which is going to take up loads of room in the house/garage.

Castings!? Carbon Fibre 😉

http://www.mbr.co.uk/videos/bikes-and-equipment/meet-the-man-who-3d-prints-his-own-carbon-fibre-mountain-bikes

At the weekend, I mentioned treating myself to a £150 3-D printer, rather than £2k worth of CNC router which is what I’d really like to get…

I got told to put it on my Christmas list….. 😐

At the weekend, I mentioned treating myself to a £150 3-D printer, rather than £2k worth of CNC router which is what I’d really like to get…

Yep – me too.
However, now that I’ve seen MPCNC – maybe the two can be combined.
Looks like you can get a pretty good CNC router for around £350 once you’ve got the 3d printer.
https://www.vicious1.com/assembly/

AlexSimon – Member

Yep – me too.
However, now that I’ve seen MPCNC – maybe the two can be combined.
Looks like you can get a pretty good CNC router for around £350 once you’ve got the 3d printer.

Have not seen that website before! Gah!! That looks great! I’d be impressed if it cuts accurately – but pics on the gallery page seem to confirm it will do!

Flex of the long metal sections seem to be the weak point. Mainly because it’s easy to make a very large one! Keeping the size small will help (450×450 cut area might be about right), but you can see all sorts of mods people have made to support the sides, etc. The trucks at the sides don’t wrap under completely, so you can actually support the side rails from underneath.

(it doesn’t have to be this complex – some people just add a plywood side and bolt up at various points)

I will probably be making one of these before the CNC machine so I can more quickly get 3D prints replicating existing parts

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1762299

Add ‘Bigger garage’ to wish list

Add ‘Bigger garage’ to wish list

Yep – I’m going to need to build more sheds! (cnc routed obvs)

Every time I go round to one of my mates…..I look at his cluttered double garage with a distinct case of envy!

It’s just a jumbled mess. If it was mine, it would be split into bike stuff/storage on one side & ‘tinkering workshop’ on the other…..

I should really replace my ‘normal’ garden shed with a workshop – although at the moment I don’t really have anything to put in it!!

Go on then – humour me. How useful can I make it?

I’ve done a full suss 29er if thats usefull? Am working on version 2.

link

I should really replace my ‘normal’ garden shed with a workshop – although at the moment I don’t really have anything to put in it!!

That’s the perfect situation! Unfortunately I had the contents of my old shed + a lod of extra stuff to fill mine with. Still a useful amount of workshop space though!

bigdean – Member

Go on then – humour me. How useful can I make it?

I’ve done a full suss 29er if thats usefull? Am working on version 2.

link Yes, been following that! Amazing stuff. Beyond my current skillset for sure. You never know in the future though!

AlexSimon – Member

That’s the perfect situation! Unfortunately I had the contents of my old shed + a lod of extra stuff to fill mine with. Still a useful amount of workshop space though!

What I mean by ‘nothing to put in it’, is no CNC router, no 3-D printer, no band saw, no planer/thicknesser, no lathe etc…..all the toys I’d want in there.

There’s tons of junk to fill it with though! 😆

At our previous house, we had a shed, perhaps 6×8 or 8×8. It was full, but there was plenty of room; I could even do a bit of bike tinkering in there if needed.

Now, I’ve got a shed; smaller than the last one, but still a decent size & a single garage.
Both are full to the rafters & there is no room to swing even the smallest cat! I don’t know how this has happened.
Some of it might be due to going from one bike to 4, but even so…. 😀

What I mean by ‘nothing to put in it’, is no CNC router, no 3-D printer, no band saw, no planer/thicknesser, no lathe etc…..all the toys I’d want in there.

Ah. I started with a small toolbox and drill and a chop saw. Now added a track saw, vacuum and loads of hand tools/squares/clamps/etc. That and a load of ply means that I can just get on and make most things.
Doesn’t mean I wouldn’t love a planer-thicknesser/lathe/etc, although I did notice that someone 3d printed a cnc lathe in one of the MPCNC threads!

Blimey – I didn’t realise the Anet A8 was that cheap!
£120 delivered!
http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html

I already have a double garage with no room for the cars. An art studio in one corner, gardening and bike bits in another with tools and bench in the third and some space to work in the fourth.

Perhaps I can print a fifth corner to the square?
Extend upwards?
Dig down?
Build more

Dig down?

I have a massive banking (almost too steep to climb up – lethal in the wet). When we first moved in, we thought we could do a hobbit house under there. Then we looked at the cost of earth removal down the 36 steps from our house. Nope.

After spending most of the evening looking at 3D printers, I think this is the one I would currently buy.

£311
http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_441282.html

Probably better than the Tevo Tarantula but also almost exactly double the price.

Enough to put it over the ‘under the radar’ purchase for me unfortunately. Also looking forward to actually building it. Pictures/videos may follow

Yeah, that printer does look pretty nice.
But not sure I’d use 300x300x400 bed.
Need to factor in the cost of filament to run the thing…printing vases and massive iris boxes is soon gonna start getting pricey in terms of materials…

Does look bloody ace though!

Probably better than the Tevo Tarantula but also almost exactly double the price.

I know – I guess I’m paying to remove risk, but I’d hate to get one and spend hours and hours modding to make it produce something acceptable. I don’t want the machine to be the hobby, I want the creative aspect to be the hobby.
It’s obvious that a lot of people on YouTube genuinely enjoy the hacking about and test prints, etc. But for me the Monoprice Select Mini and the Creality make more sense (print volume being the main decider).

300x300x400mm 😯
That will take a very long time to print big things, as the print speed isn’t lightning speed! It would be fine for printing stuff like vases, not so great at printing big complex objects.

I just sliced a Lego Batman Head, scaled to max for the Creality CR10 and it says it would take 8 days continual printing to finish at 0.2mm layer height, set of draft setting, this generally doesn’t take certain things into consideration such as retraction, print head acceleration and deceleration, so I would add 10% at least.

It also says it will use 1.2km of filament! I realise no one would want to print this at this size, but it gives you an idea of time for a full build plate sized print. 😆

I don’t want the machine to be the hobby, I want the creative aspect to be the hobby.

Then don’t buy a cheap 3D printer. Something like a new Ultimaker would be better as they hold their settings.

Then don’t buy a cheap 3D printer. Something like a new Ultimaker would be better as they hold their settings.

But that’s jumping from one extreme to the other. I think the Monoprice Select Mini or the Creality slot into a happy mix of price/performance/convenience.

Ultimaker is hardly the extreme end, it works well, but is certainly not top end, middle of the road maybe. It seems top end when you are looking at the cheapest printers out there.

I would say you get what you pay for, but with 3D printers that is not the case.

I am planning on using the build process to teach my self how the printer works. As I found with my car: if you build it then you can repair it. From what I see, even with the better printers, a lot of the early prints people do are for modifications.

I will use the printing of modification parts to learn how to control the print quality and print process, both software and steps required.

I will then start designing my own bits to teach myself CAD and the other required software. I have used Sketchup as I mentioned earlier so hopefully it will be expanding knowledge rather than starting from scratch.

Those are the steps I see before you can start doing ‘creative’ stuff. In reality, the creative stuff is done in your head and then there is a whole stack of processes to get it from your head into reality. Same if you do it in wood, welding, carving or casting.

I see the 3D printer and just another tool in the armory, a means to an end and not an end in itself. I expect to be combining printed stuff with wood, welding, carving or casting stuff to express my creativity.

Plus it should be fun and is only £150 if it ends up gathering dust after I have used the 2 free rolls of filament that come with it.

I’d probably not try Alu casting at home, but you could do pewter/white metal casting. A blow torch or even oven will melt it.

Alu is just as easy: loaf of bread, sand from the beach, styrofoam, and a blowtorch. Job done 😀

Also looking forward to actually building it. Pictures/videos may follow

Please do. Interested to see how it turns out.

WCA – The printer you have bought is perfect for that and your reasons are why I bought one. If you wanted to just print things then I would say 3D printing isn’t at that stage yet.

The best advice I had when learning CAD was: There is no right or wrong way to draw, but there might be an easier or quicker way.

If you wanted to just print things then I would say 3D printing isn’t at that stage yet.

Just use one of the many online printing houses to do it for you. Cheaper, easier and better than home printing.

There is no right or wrong way to draw, but there might be an easier or quicker way.
Yep. That’s why I want to look at other peoples models before I start making my own.

One of the things I want to try is a round headlight surround for the Barchetta. This is a ring shape with a curved profile but the outside edge of the ring cureves lower than the inside edge. There are various clip holders and screw holes etc to include. I am expecting that to be a steep learning curve.

I expect there to be several iterations until I create one that fits properly.

Once designed I then need to print it and use the printed model for displacement forging in a metal of my choice, probably aluminium but not sure yet…

…or I could buy one for about £10.

It is all about the fun, not necessarily the result.

It has arrived!!!!!!!!!

20170722_185351 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

In a box!
20170722_185556 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

With a box inside!
20170722_185814 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

And the inside most box has been opened before it got here, will everything be there?
20170722_185854 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

Manual is
20170722_185919 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

First layer of stuff looks undisturbed
20170722_185925 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

And that is where we stop for today. As you may have spotted in the first picture there were a couple of glasses of Pinot in the hot tub before it arrived so I don’t fancy starting work on it now.

I will post up pictures and maybe even videos as I build but these will be basically a direct copy of this guy who’s videos i will be using alongside the official build manual.

Okay, I opened the envelope with the manual in it, what harm can that do?

I am glad that they are pleasured and once built I will check I have satisfied their machine. Sounds a bit kinky or is that just the after effects of the sex pond hot tub?
20170722_191112 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

The important stuff appears to use mostly English sentences though
20170722_191209 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

Nice. Looking forward to seeing some build details & how well it goes together!!

Yep, keep the updates coming WCA. I look forward to some 3D printed hot tub accessories.

Can you fit magnets…

Does the manual still end halfway through? 😆 Check our ArcadEd’s youtube series, it’s ever so slightly out of date because Tevo have done some rolling revisions (including some things he suggests) but it’s still really useful. It’s really worth spending time over alignment and solidity, a lot of the complaints you see are from people who’re really comfortable with the software and design side but can’t work an allen key and don’t understand why their squint wobbly printer makes squint wobbly parts.

Mounting it to a base board helps a lot btw. And then, print a replacement Y axis bracket as the top one is a bit flexy, and will snap sooner or later. And some corner reinforcements. Then a hotend fan- makes a tremendous difference, this, especially if printing small parts (they’ll tend to slump if just naturally cooled)

(I don’t want to get too ahead of myself but I’m just finishing a dual-Z conversion which I’ve got high hopes for, the only real hardware issue I’ve had is that the Z axis is just naturally a little unstable as it’s only driven at one end, it’s too reliant on perfect guide wheel setup. Should have it printing again in a day or two)

Also, order some of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Glue-Sticks-Pens/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E1560/B00143UIC2

And if you don’t already have some aerosol freeze spray, that’s really useful too- if you spray it on a part while the bed’s still hot it’ll often pop right off. Most people complain of bad adhesion but with the tevo bed and a little elmer’s it’s the other way round, sometimes they’re hard to shift.

Northwind – you may become my new best friend during this build and foer the first few prints. I am of to a car breakfast meet for the next few hours but then plan to start the build. No idea how far the manual gets but there are just 15 steps in it.

I can handle a spanner so am reasonably hopeful that the printer will hold together long enough to print the reinforcement brackets and cooling fan.

Are those glue sticks just like normal glue sticks? I would have thought the glue would stick up too much or does the base layer of the print ‘absorb’ the bumps?

I was planning on placing a piece of glass, actually an spare mirror tile, on top of the bed and printing on that. I have seen a couple of videos where they do that and then use hair spray. Any views on this?

Loads more questions later today I am sure.

Thanks

Okay, I started the build while drinking my coffee and have completed the first step successfully!

1) Get bits outof box
20170722_213519 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

2) Put the bits shown in the manual, on the manual
20170722_214247 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

3) Carefully fit the first bracket ensuring it is flush with the end of the metal*
20170722_214904 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

*4) Realise it shouldn’t be flush as it needs to connect to the other piece of metal
20170722_215551 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

5) Repeat for the other brackets and step 1 is completed in less than 10 minutes. Turn the page for step 2 and decide to go to car show instead…
20170723_072750 by WCA![/url], on Flickr

WorldClassAccident – Member

Are those glue sticks just like normal glue sticks? I would have thought the glue would stick up too much or does the base layer of the print ‘absorb’ the bumps?

Yeah, they’re basically just pritt stick but they go on a little smoother. Occasionally it leaves a wee bit of discolouration in the first layer of the print but it doesn’t affect the shape.

I’ve heard good things about printing on borosilicate glass, haven’t really investigated it much though but it’s on the list of things to play with. Hairspray just does the same thing as the glue sticks but seems a little more temperamental, I’ve more or less found something that works and stuck with it

I’m thinking about investing in one of these. Anyone know anything about them?

After a somewhat interrupted day I managed to get some building done.

Not finished by any means but quite interesting with a couple bits of frustration.

I HATE the paper they stick to the acrylic to protect it. Use a craft knife to help remove it.

I HATE dropping the bolts and nuts but most of all the acrylic as that snaps easy.

I HATE forgetting to strap up the cross bar after fitting the z axis screw as when that breaks you have to superglue it and pray it holds. I am currently praying.

8 minutes of photos with captions describing the build so far(including my mistakes)

Probably a good time to buy a load of t-nuts, they’re one of those things that costs the same for 5 in the UK or 50 from china for the exact same part. M4 and M5 just because there’s no standards for hole sizes…

The paper on the acrylic is a total pain in the cock. But stop breaking it! I’ve never broken one yet… I do have some spare bits though from things I’ve upgraded so post up a pic of any broken ones and I’ll see what I have. Ah actually I have some superceded printed reinforcements too that might help you out, pm me your details if you want them