Buying and renovating a rural property on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees

Last week we took a stroll up to the old castle ruins above the town of Boltaña – which is where our flat is.

Boltaña, like so many of these old European towns, comprises of the “old town” up on a hill with the new town spread out below it. The castle is higher still, up above the old town.

The footpath up to the castle from the old town is easy enough and not too steep, but if you start off down in the new town, walk up to the old town and then continue on up to the castle you will have climbed a fair way. 🙂

Views north and west . . . .

You can just make out the castle at the top of the shadow of the hill we were on…..

Standing up here enjoying the sun and the views, something special happened.

At the far end of the road in this picture (too far away to see clearly I’m afraid) are a couple of small buildings on the left where the local Hunters meet. Hunting was on this weekend and by the time we climbed up here on Sunday afternoon the hunters had finished their hunting and were “back at base”. Across the road from where they meet is a fenced off patch of ground where they throw away all the stuff they don’t want. We didn’t actually know any of this until we were standing admiring the views and Mrs Spekkie saw a vulture glide by overhead. We watched where it went and then worked out what was happening from that because I had remembered seeing the signposted buildings when I’d ridden past there previously.

Once we were aware of what was going on we kept a look out and very quickly spotted dozens of vultures gliding down from all directions towards where the carcasses were. In the end there must have been 40 of them. A couple of minutes after seeing our first vulture pass overhead I heard a noise like a plane passing by at high altitude. It was the noise of the wind passing through the feathers of a huge vulture as it glided overhead. I don’t know if it’s by smell, sight or just knowing where meat gets dumped on a Sunday during winter – but these guys came in from miles around. It took them five minutes to clean up the dump site and then they all flew off in different directions. Some came our way and settled in the sun on a ledge below us.

I was just talking to someone last week about how, aside from the attraction of the MTB trails here, we also have the two attractions of amazing local Geology and Birds of Prey . . . and then this happened. I’m glad out timing was right. 10 minutes later and we’d have missed it all!

One of the reasons for choosing to live on this side of the Pyrenees was the fact that the weather is so different on the southern side.

Northern Europe gets so much of its weather from the west – damp air coming in from over the atlantic – whereas we don’t.

I’ve said on here before, once we’re up and running we will definately have a “weather-cam” on our web site so that people sitting somewhere cold and grey can see what they’re missing!

Great pics Spekkie, very very different to the Basque Country right now. 6ºC and pouring rain for the holiday weekend!

Have you ever been up the Peña Montanesa? I fancied a crack at it last time but ran out of time.

I’m considering a family trip up to Aínsa over Xmas – we usually spend it in UK or Bordeaux but I guess neither of those will be happening. Need a change of scenery as we’ve been confined within city limits since early November…

Brilliant. Just brilliant.

I’m not sure whether moving from one autonomous community to another is allowed under the current Covid restrictions Bob. We’ve knocked a UK visit on the head, we had a short visit to attend MrsPB’s mother’s funeral in October which meant a week of travelling there and back for a half hour funeral service. Trish is missing her boys who are stuck in Sheffield so to cheer her up, I’ve booked a 3 day stay in a Parador in Lleida so staying within Cataluña. It’s Tuesday to Thursday which is Christmas Eve as travel outside our village “terme” is forbidden at weekends. They’ve got a deal of €60 per night for a double room in a place which is usually 3x that.

I use these updates and especially the photos to continue an incredibly boring and painful physiotherapy programme to rebuild my knee after a big operation so I can one day ride the Spanish trails like many moons ago.

I’m not sure whether moving from one autonomous community to another is allowed under the current Covid restrictions Bob

You’re allowed to travel to meet family or “close friends/associates”.

And we’ve got loads of vultures in the mountains outside Madrid, and it’s really cool to hear them fly close by – it’s a very distinctive noise.

Ah yes “allegados” the Spanish equivalent of the substantial meal🤔 I wonder if I was stopped by the Guarda Civil I could use the Scotch Egg defence.😁

Reminds me of being out on a run last winter, wind in my face carrying a strong smell of death . I ‘surprised’ 6 or so vultures feasting on a wild pony in a ditch, and they all took off together when I was about 20-30 feet away. The noise that made was incredible, they are griffon vultures so get up to about 10kg and 3m across.

I’m not sure whether moving from one autonomous community to another is allowed under the current Covid restrictions Bob

Was thinking more towards the end of the month or before Reyes – supposed to be lifting restrictions on Thursday. That said, they probably want to avoid mass movements to second homes or ski stations, so it might come to naught

@bob_summers – I’ve climbed the Pena several times. Always up from the south side, which takes longer but is easier/safer/warmer. In good weather the return trip is about a 7hr walk. Nothing too difficult, but it’s up all the way! Views from the top are amazing of course. Never done it when there’s been snow up there though . . . .

Not sure what the restrictions on movement will be in the near future. We’ve seen people from Barca, Madrid, Zaragoza . . . here lately, so some people are certainly still moving around.

@matt_outandabout – cheers man!

@handybar – glad to be of service!

@mogrim – the noise is really loud close up, but only as they pass. Before that you hear nothing.

We took a drive up to France a couple of days ago on the road north out of Ainsa. The border is 45km away and it’s an easy enough drive. We had snow/sleet/rain down here last Monday, but it only settled for a couple of hours before the sun melted it. Up in the mountains on the road to France the snow fell some while ago. It’s deeper and it’s here to stay. Every so often we go and have a look.

Through the 3.5km long “Bielsa Tunnel” to the northern side on the Pyrenees and the snow is suddenly meters deep at the side of the road. Nice to look at and get out and stand in for 5 minutes, but I woudn’t want to live like that!

Down where we are we only see snow up on the peaks at the moment . . . . here the Pena Montenesa has snow down to about 1000m.

Our photo’s don’t capture the sheer beauty of the snow covered trees on the mountains, but here’s the best we could do . . . .

Then it was home for a nice hot lunch!

Not sure what the restrictions on movement will be in the near future. We’ve seen people from Barca, Madrid, Zaragoza . . .

As of today I can move around País Vasco but not leave it. Which is a pain because I wanted to at least get up to the Navarran Pyrenees over the hols.

There are a couple of days amnesty at Xmas and NY to allow people to get home – but otherwise there’s no leaving the perimeter of the comunidad without a valid reason. If you’re in Aragon then you have the same restrictions. So if you see anyone from outside the comunidad, they’ve either got a work justification or are flouting the rules!
From here: https://elpais.com/sociedad/2020-12-09/coronavirus-en-espana-medidas-y-restricciones-por-comunidades-para-navidad.html

Alongside the Rio Ara, Zona Zero, Spain . . . . . 5 mins from home.

Yesterday I had time to pop up to one of my fav viewing points.

Ainsa Old Town, with the New Town below it and the Mountains behind it in the distance. There was some morning mist over the rivers and the dam…

Wow looks so different from when we were there! Beautiful. We’re staying warm in the Algarve!

Nice shot of the three Marias, Spekkie!

Back in the Autumn I had the use of the company pickup for a week while our car was in the garage for some repairs and I took the opportunity to hunt for stones/rocks suitable for wall building.

Almost everything built here – houses/barns/boundary walls are built from rocks just laying around in the veld…. you just have to make sure they have at least one good “face” on them. Thanks to the local geology, the way rocks are formed here makes that pretty easy.

Picking up rocks . . . . . it’s not work – it’s cross-training!

They said I was doing a good job!

The philosophy here is “If you’re riding a trail and you see a stone in the way, just move it”. If everyone does that then the Zona Zero trails remain well maintained with the minimum of work.

The Zona Zero team have provided a broom at the Pump Track so that if anyone turns up to ride and the track is a bit dirty, they can give it a sweep…..

🙂

Looks amazing , hopefully I can start my pirineos dream this year COVID pending. I remember a very drunk fiesta in Boltana and a few strange party barns.

@stonemonkey – keep me posted 🙂

Went for a local trail run yesterday, clear weather brought the Pyrenees into view (would’ve been there this week if not for the travel restrictions) – camera doesn’t really show much but could see Pic D’Anie clearly enough, and Midi d’Ossau?).
Ossau is about 120km as the crow flies, looking north could also see Dune du Pilat which is about 150km.

View post on imgur.com

So you run over Jaizkibel. We’ve walked along there from Hendaye to St Seb a few times, train back. I can see the same mountains from the other side from my garden in Pau. Snow forecast for tomorrow . 🙂

@edukator that’s the one. It’s been off limits for a month and a half due to covid movement restrictions so it was nice to get up again.
It’s a 15km run getting the train out and climbing up from Lezo, up the crags on the south side. Run down the ridge and either train back or cross the harbour and run the extra 10k home over Ulia.

Btw you said you could see Dune du Pilat from up here and I didn’t believe you, but on about 5 days of the year when it’s not hazy or raining, it is indeed visible!

Always nice to have views to distract you when you’re digging deep on a climb!

The spanish people love Christmas and we have lots of Christmas Trees here in Spain, but out on my ride yesterday I came across this “Christmas Ladder” in the nearby village of Margudged, decorated with baubles, flowers and cuddly toys….. 🙂

Mrs Spekkie & I wish everyone on Singletrack a Merry Christmas.

Best wishes to everyone.

Wot no Pooping Log 🙂

🙂

Haven’t seen the traditional “man taking a dump” yet!

https://www.thenotsoinnocentsabroad.com/blog/caganer-a-crappy-spanish-christmas-tradition-explained

Another happy Christmas from me and the other mogrims in Madrid 🙂

Bones Festes from us in Cataluña, all the best for 2021 Tony and Andrea. Bring on the return to normal service.

Er and and felicitous novadudes from the DoD’s in Murcia.

There’s always somewhere to get a drink of water here!

Temps dropped here over the last week – and then last night around midnight it started snowing!

I took these outside our rented flat at 1am last night. It was amazingly quiet and still, with just a light falling of snow coming down . . . . . the tyre tracks were from a patrolling police car.

Pump track isn’t going to get much use today!

Off to get a couple of warm French loaves from the bakers for breakfast….

With Spanish Butter & Jam and a cup of English breakfast Tea . . . .perfect!

Snow & Sunshine – outside the village of Latorrecilla, just down the road from our “Project”

Last ride of the year – a spin in the snow. 🙂

It’s cold here now, need to dig out my winter kit. Summer kit plus “arm warmers and a Buff” are just not enough!

You know you’ve been in Spain too long when you dig out full winter gear for temps you’d still be on shorts and lightweight jacket in the UK.
After 35 years in Valencia my sis brings a coat over in the summer. She can barely cope with our winter.

Yep – acclimatization is a real thing. My first winter in South Africa I wore shorts when everyone else had jumpers on. 3 years later and I had a jumper on too.

Here in Spain I fare better than most of the locals with the cold, but I’m also getting more used to the summer each year. First year here 40 degrees in summer was impossible. Now it’s manageable.