1x systems – what are the benefits?

🙂

Whats the net effect of having a heavier rear wheel(cassette) and a lighter chainset?

At low speeds my chainset spins faster, so is it beneficial then?

At high speeds and when I stop pedalling, the back wheel spins more, and the heavier cassette robs performance?

I’d love to see some people sprinting down steep hills in top gear with their 3 x 9 set ups. Hilarious. Who maxes out with that. Unless youre just bombing down roads in which case wtf

Mines a 2×9 setup and I use my top gear of 36/11 most rides

I switched from 2×10 to 1×10. I replaced the front with a 32T oval and the back with an 11-42 sun race (the black posher one). I love it.

I’ve effectively lost one gear at either end, though the oval seems to make up for that as I’m not missing them. The downside is the larger gap means sometimes you miss the ideal gear, but the flip side is you can jump from easy climb to fast descent easily without faffing with the front ring.

There’s no rubbing noises from the chain on the front mech when its muddy and I’m at extremes on the cogs. It also rather nicely frees up the front shifter position for my dropper lever – more ergonomic.

Previously I was constantly flipping between chain rings, particularly when approaching descents after a climb, and I always found the location of my dropper lever awkward. I suppose I very rarely miss the 24T I had up front on a really long steep climb, but since switching I’ve PR’d every segment so it’s +ve from me.

I absolutely love the oval chainring. Long medium climbs are so much quicker.

Mines a 2×9 setup and I use my top gear of 36/11 most rides

32T front on a 10-42T will give you almost the same. A 32T oval probably effectively slightly higher and probably not much different at the low end assuming you have a 32T cassette.

joefm – Member
Unless youre just bombing down roads in which case wtf

Yeah, roads.
🙂
Because it’s more fun and quicker than freewheeling down them?

The way back from my local ‘proper’ trails, Hurstwood, is about a mile and half.
It has a short but steep granny ring climb followed by a long flat out downhill road blast back to the house.

I see no advantages in me spending cash to achieve nothing but a happier thumb and a narrower gear range.

This thread is making me laugh a little bit inside. We are talking quite small variation in rations, yes some loss in the in-betweens going from 2/3x to 1x but it’s still quite laughable.
Myself and may other have been quite happy running single speed, I used to run 32-16 when I lived in Wiltshire and down here in Cornwall got around 90% of places pretty well and was the fittest I have been doing it. Only had gears again as I bought a new bike after a car accident and it had gears.
My newest is 1×11 and I hardly use the 46T well apart from that 20degree last hill.

I think we’re a bit spoilt with so many ratios but once you don’t have them you realise you don’t need so many and just get on with it, it’s not all about spinning your legs where comfortable.

Andyl

I have an 11/34 cassette.
My bottom gear is 22/34 my top gear 36/11
You can’t get that range on 1x ( maybe near with a 50th sprocket?) I use all the gears for a number of reasons – I am old and unfit and like climbing big steep hills, I ride to the hills or train mainly not drive so have to get back home either on the road or cycle path both of which are downhill gently for a few miles – so build up the speed and spin out of top gear. Id actually prefer a greater gear range but don’t like a big ring since getting bitten by one.

I don’t have any issues with chain drop, rub or missed shifts I use it as a low and high ratio set of gears so never change to granny ring under power. I do know how to set it all up meticulously thoi.

Other folk may have other needs. Thats whats so good. Its all about choice.

Looks dope.

No getting bitten by a chainring on a 1x system – the teeth are covered by the chain 😆

Skankin_giant – Member

I think we’re a bit spoilt with so many ratios but once you don’t have them you realise you don’t need so many and just get on with it, it’s not all about spinning your legs where comfortable.

Yeah, but need has nothing to do with it, you should use what you want- all the options are good enough to use so it’s purely about personal taste.

When I went from triple to double, I thought I’d miss the top gears as I did use them. But when they were gone, I just didn’t use them, I never missed them. That’s one of the things that made me open to 1×9 because even though I knew I used the top gear, I thought maybe I wouldn’t mind once it was gone. And so it proves- not having it just means I spin a little higher on some descents, which unexpectedly is working better, I used to be a real pedal masher. But if I missed the top gear I’d probbaly have gone back and carried on mashing.

Not looking forward to hebden on wednesday

you’ll be right, I’m in Heb and I get on fine with a 1X

The way back from my local ‘proper’ trails, Hurstwood

rare definition of proper…

tjagain – Member
Andyl

I have an 11/34 cassette.
My bottom gear is 22/34 my top gear 36/11
You can’t get that range on 1x ( maybe near with a 50th sprocket?)

Nearly if you wouldn’t miss the 36/11

http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=22,36&RZ=11,13,15,17,19,21,23,26,30,34&UF=2240&TF=90&SL=2.6&UN=KMH&GR2=DERS&KB2=30&RZ2=11,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32,37,46&UF2=2240

with a 11-50 you could get even closer running a 32T

http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=22,36&RZ=11,13,15,17,19,21,23,26,30,34&UF=2240&TF=94&SL=2.6&UN=MPH&GR2=DERS&KB2=32&RZ2=11,13,15,18,21,24,28,32,37,42,50&UF2=2240

Northwind – Member

Yeah, but need has nothing to do with it, you should use what you want- all the options are good enough to use so it’s purely about personal taste.

Yes indeed, not trying to convert anyone here, I would go as far to say it’s not worth the money unless your current kit is shagged out and you’re going to change it any way.

Cheers, Steve

nickc – Member
rare definition of proper…

As in ‘not cheeky’.
🙂

I’d love to see some people sprinting down steep hills in top gear with their 3 x 9 set ups.

You’re more than welcome to come watch.
But I’ll warn you it’s a bit like watching TdF live… the interesting bit is over pretty quick.

Hilarious.

Wouldn’t go that far, but it is enjoyable.

Who maxes out with that. Unless youre just bombing down roads in which case wtf

some of us ride to the forest trails. for me that means about 11 minutes worth of road. I could load the bike in the car and drive the other side of town. but wtf.

the only wtf is that I agree with TJ about something. that’s probably a first on here 😉

32T front on a 10-42T will give you almost the same

yeah but it’s not exactly the same
posted on several threads before… to replicate my 3×9 I’d need a 9-56 cassette. Eagle is getting there. It’s several times the price of what I have.

only time I’ve been bitten by a big ring is when not following recommended advice with pedal spanner. follow advice, and you don’t get bit. that really clutching at straws if that’s an argument for converting to 1x.

I like 1x as it’s less opportunity for crap to accumulate round a front mech, plus I’ve got someone to mount my Southpaw. 2x was a pain when reaching the top of a steep climb with an immediate techy descent:

Front mech shift up the chainring
Rear mech shift down the cassette a good few sprockets
Dropper post lower
Unhook chain from round bb shell
Sulk

Top gearing is pretty useful for road bashing tbh. I think people who don’t do that, just discount it, but I do feel the difference spinning back in from the end of some of my rides.

Thing is, I couldn’t give a shit about that. Same with fireroad descending- I don’t spec my bike to make the rubbish bit .3% less rubbish. And for trail descending, I don’t think my trailbike needs higher gearing than Greg Minaar’s V10.

But, the ymmv is strong here.

and to echo some of Northwinds points you also use it differently, if you try and ride 1×11 like 3×9 it doesn’t quite work, I looked back at my Strava for a couple of races that I did 2×10 and 1×10 the top speed difference was negligible (I think the fastest part of the fire road section had a detour as a bridge had collapsed) overall there was no real change in top speed even pedalling along a fire road, my legs could spin and drive faster in the easier gear than the could trying to push 38/11.

It’s really interesting seeing how things roll, of course if it’s flat tarmac then that doesn’t help as much but I’m also happy to give up 3% (NW approved figure) on that mostly as there is bugger all flat around here

I think it’s hilarious and laughable (well, perhaps mildly amusing) that some of the 1x advocates can’t accept there are people who ride in a different way to them, and who have made rational choices based on equally long cycling experience. Anyway, my current 3×9 setup has over 3500km on it so I’ve just ordered a complete replacement drivetrain for the Spring – cost me £55…

I think it’s hilarious and laughable (well, perhaps mildly amusing) that some of the 1x advocates can’t accept there are people who ride in a different way to them,

It’s mostly countering the points that are either untrue or don’t make sense.
There is a lot of assumptions being made about what 1×11 is like mostly without trying it properly.

I think it’s hilarious and laughable (well, perhaps mildly amusing) that some of the 2x and 3x advocates can’t accept there are people who ride in a different way to them, and who have made rational choices based on equally long cycling experience.

Nobody has done that that I can see chief.

I think it’s hilarious and laughable (well, perhaps mildly amusing) that some of the 1x advocates can’t accept there are people who ride in a different way to them

I can’t see that anybody has TBH, mostly it’s just been a discussion about the pros and cons.

Edited – I ride 2×10 at present, but like the look of 1×11, if it does the same thing as my current set up and prices up ok, I will get it next time.

I’ve finally decided to board the 1x bandwagon…

34T Ringmaster to be paired with my exisiting 11-30T (on 29er wheels) and 11-34T (on fat wheels), for 1×8! 😈

My order also included a 34T stainless chainring (which curiously states it could be used for 1x on 8/9-speed and is not narrow/wide), a 16T singlespeed converter kit and a two tone singlespeed chain for £18 all in. 😯 😆

Nobody has done that that I can see chief.

…nothing will convince me this is anything but marketing / fashion led with no real advantages and plenty of disadvantages.

Which is not what you said at all chief. Never mind

TJ, you said that you’re convinced it is solely marketing/fashion led with no real advantages and lots of disadvantages. In that sentence you have failed to accept that “there are people who ride in a different way to them, and who have made rational choices based on equally long cycling experience.”

If you’re going to be argumentative in black and white then you have to be consistent or people like me will just ending up quoting your contradictions back at yourself! :p

My MTBing gearing history since 1988 has been 3×5, 3×7, 3×9, 2×9, 1×9, 1×10. And most recently I went to a wider range (11-42) cassette on my bike that does away trips.

It isn’t marketing/fashion led, it’s totally function driven. Anyone who knows me knows what I’m like about things like that, and my bikes are fairly clearly function driven builds. Of course, you’d probably consider their sub 65 deg head angles to be fashion led but that would say more about you than me. 😉

3×5 then… 3×7 then… 3×8 then… 3×9 (and 2×9) currently for me.

Have 9 MTBs with 3x set-ups, so I’m fairly well committed to 1900s chainring and front derailleur technology… 😉

Nothing practical about it at all though, probably… save the opportunity to let rip on the fire road descent three times a year at CyB Beast. It’s probably pretty well all fashion (and economically) led for me.

Triple ring bikes just look ‘right’ to me – and changing the front ring feels good – the mechanical punctuation point between the grind to the top of a climb and the beginning of a fun descent.

I’m awesum.. 8)

Chief

Fair point. Its not really contradictory as I meant it tho but I take your point it could be read as that.

It would appear tho that the only advantages ( from this thread) are a slight weight reduction and only needing one lever.

Plenty of disadvantages but I accept that for some the disadvantages are immaterial / of no relevance

Huge amounts of bikestuff are fashion / marketing led IMO. The companies need to keep on finding ways to get people to spend money on the latest newest thing

I still bet in a couple of years 2x will come back into fashion and will be marketed as the next greatest thing

It would appear tho that the only advantages ( from this thread) are a slight weight reduction and only needing one lever.

Straight range (no massive jumps going from front shifts)
Shift up or shift down with no massive cadence change
Good Chain retention
Range gaps through a cassette that are similar to a 10sp
Better frame design options
Weight
Less shifters
Simplicity

The companies need to keep on finding ways to get people to spend money on the latest newest thing

I still bet in a couple of years 2x will come back into fashion and will be marketed as the next greatest thing
I won’t be going back. Bike companies don’t actually with drive trains, they wear out, SRAM could have saved all that trouble redesigning the rear mech and just kept on shipping 10sp 2x. Would have made them more cash.

It would appear tho that the only advantages ( from this thread) are a slight weight reduction and only needing one lever.

The HUGE advantage with modern 1x systems is that your chain actually stays on the bike if you’re doing gnarlier riding. If you prefer to mince and consequently never drop chains than I see why you wouldn’t see a benefit.

The other advantage is that shifting is that much more intuitive. Note that the handful of pro enduro riders on 2x are using Di2 with single shifters and I believe that’s the case for a lot of XC pros too. One shifter is simply better for the riding that a lot of people do.

As you’ve said yourself, you prefer to ride your bike like a Land Rover, not a rally car. Amongst keen MTBers, and certainly amongst those spending money on bikes (driven by modern geometry, modern suspension, etc), that approach is very much in the minority.

I’ll just squeeze in better ground clearance while we are here. This will have no impact while on the road.

tjagain – Member

It would appear tho that the only advantages ( from this thread) are a slight weight reduction and only needing one lever.

Dude, no. This is exactly why these threads get argumentative, you’re just not listening to what people are saying. Go back and look at the first page, by the 4th post people mentioned advantages which you’ve ignored.

It would appear tho that the only advantages for me ( from this thread) are a slight weight reduction and only needing one lever.

we get it wouldn’t work for you. it works for many, many other people.

no one is claiming its the perfect solution but for me, and the majority of people I ride with it works.

It works for me, I wouldn’t say it’s for everyone. The people who absolutely evangelise about 1x are as sensible as the ones who evangelise about 2x or 3x…

Anyway, something that came to me earlier – I remember when I was on 3×9 and then 2×9/10 – If I came to a short techy climb, I’d always try and go into the middle (or big on 2x) on the front, as it felt easier to power through that section. If I stayed in the granny, I’d be spinning furiously, more likely I’d lose traction or lose balance.

So is going 1x, as it’s more akin in size to a middle ring in say a 3×9 setup, better in those sort of situations?. Makes sense to me.

Saw a number of queries on this thread about weight saving – I made it about 270g going from 2x to 1x….

A bit more would be saved if you choice not to run a top guide/skid plate.

I don’t think 1x is necessarily better – it’s a choice – but when I purchased a Bird Aeris this year it could ONLY run 1x so I was compelled to try it and apart from ‘losing’ the very lowest gear of my 2×10 set up (24-36) I liked it. So I also changed the set up on the HT. Still need a 30T chainring if I want any hope of getting up hills in Calderdale.

Getting closer on the range? That price though!

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/ethirteens-trs-race-9-46-tooth-cassette-now-available-2016.html