Whyte T129s anybody got one,what's it like

I just swapped mine onto the right hand side under the bar. It took two minutes, no problem with hose length at all.

How did you do it then jonny??? cant figure it out? do i need to purchase extra parts as my gears, brakes and reverb are all hanging of one bracket..

just unscrew it and fit it under the bar on the opposite side (kind of upside down) Its that easy..

I run wider bars than stock, perhaps that was the difference, can’t remember now, but I’m pretty sure on mine the Reverb hose wasn’t long enough to run it on the left with ample bar movement. Perhaps they’re not all the same.

Anyway as Jonny says, try it.

as my gears, brakes and reverb are all hanging of one bracket..

shifters and brake levers are on a Matchmaker together – my Reverb was separate on its own clamp

Hi cant just unscrew it.. the brakes, shifters and reverb are all part of one bracket system that came supplied on the bike.

are you sure? Mine was on a seperate clamp, it sits very flush and neat but it is seperate on mine.

the brakes, shifters and reverb are all part of one bracket system that came supplied on the bike.

not seen that before, got a pic?

Fair enough, not seen that before.

Did you get another bracket in the bits, not used?

If you did, use that for the brakes and shifter on the left, then the Reverb bracket isn’t holding anything else and you can move it and invert it.

On mine, I have a bracket each side holding the brake and the shifter, and the Reverb was separate.

If still stuck, go ask the shop.

Ok no extra bits with the bike so i will have to source some bits. did you put your reverb lever to the left side of the brake leaver?

yes – right side of the bars, underneath, inboard of the brakes/shifters

my mail in profile, if you mail me I’ll send you a pic of the bracket that holds the brakes

no need – it’s like this: http://www.bike-components.de/products/info/p23376_Matchmaker-X-Schellenadapter-.html

you put the brake where the long bolt is

the bit underneath is where the shifter goes, you probably already have that

Cheers Matt,

Fitted my remote on my T129s on the underside of the bar on the right, hose was plenty long enough.

My missus has just bought the T129, just been fitting a reverb to that.

It’s no wonder these have pretty much sold out. I tracked down 1 T129-s but it was too far to travel, there are a few T129 still knocking about though.

I was going to go Stans Flow on my S but to be honest the stock rims are brilliant and plenty stiff enough, they went up tubeless 1st time too, better than my Stans Arch!

I was going to go Stans Flow on my S but to be honest the stock rims are brilliant and plenty stiff enough, they went up tubeless 1st time too, better than my Stans Arch!

I had the stock Ardent burp off the rim when set up tubeless, it dumped the rider at the time (not me), luckily he wasn’t hurt. It’s got a tube in now, but I think I’d like a wider rim next time.

I’ve snapped two spokes in as many weeks, and a full weeks riding in Wales in two weeks I’m taking no chances some stronger wheels ordered and two spare 🙂

Picked up the t129 yesterday, the guys at jejames kindly set it up tubeless for me, their service was very good. Only quibble was they didn’t supply a shock pump and put the documents in for a fox float rather than shox They honored a bank holiday discount which applied to online purchases but the bike couldn’t be bought on line. They still let me have the 15 percent discount which made it more affordable.

The bad news , by the time I had got home both tyre pressures were very low, as I tried to pump the tires the front lost more and more air, the blue milk was showing around the rim/tyre in places. It took ages lots of pulling and pushing to reseat them and finally get them up. Still felt a little too soft, I think they are always going to be softer then running tubes but what’s the ideal tyre pressure?

I hadn’t used the bolt through axle before and at first I couldn’t just get it through but then after some wiggling I figured it out. After screwing it through I just couldn’t get it so I needs any great pressure to lock of the quick release I the end I tightened so much I broke the corner of the end off trying to tighten it . The instruction booklet said they should have given some form of instruction on this but I didn’t receive it.

Went for a quick ride and I hated the swept back position they had set the are up so moved them forward and it felt much better. Tom a bit of time getting used to the avid shifters from my shimano but when I did I it feels like a better system for the Down shifting, much slicker.

Rear suspension lockout is good on the flat and when activated on the bumpy stuff seemed to work well. On flat sections, climbs and the road it feels just as fast if not faster then my other xtc bike so I might just use this for all and part with the xc bike. The shop guy said to keep both as they a totally different beasts but my early thoughts are that this easily does everything the xc does and better.

I didn’t have confidence though on corners with the tubeless it felt a little too squidy, it felt like the tyre was giving and could pull from the rim any minute, i might just be imagining it, they also seem to have deflated after an hours mainly gentle ride. I ll see how they are this morning.

Is it expected to lose some air, I don’t appear to have lost any pressure at all I. Around 10 rides on my other bike running with tubes?

Question on the forks (t129 standard not the s) the lockout doesn’t fully lock the fork out as it does on my other rock shox recon gold. Although I don’t have a clue what the floodgate dial does I’ve had it turned both ways and can’t really see what it does. They set the ago in store to around 25 percent.

Going to spend a few hours taping it up later today and hit Gisburn trails tomorrow morning for a proper test.

Something doesn’t sound quite right about the tubeless setup? Do you know what pressures you are running?

Setting it up tubeless takes a bit of time, how long did it take them?

Check the valve, the screw down lock ring needs to be done up pretty tight, use a pliers. I found that on set up don’t have anymore that 35psi in for initial set up. Have a look on the stans website on how to set up your bike tubeless and how to shake and rotate the wheel to distribute the sealant in the tyre.

http://www.notubes.com/helpcenter.aspx

The axle on the forks can be a little tricky, bit of grease on it should help.

I had to change the bars on my 129S they had too much backsweep, made the bike feel too short for me.

The floodgate dial sets your lockout, Im not a big fan of it but have a play around with it and it should become apparent.

I’ve switched my bars to 785mm RaceFace Atlas flat, seems better for me. The Whyte bars are a bit narrow for me.

I think the stock tyres aren’t really made for running tubeless, you can do it but it’s normal for tyres like that to leak a bit for a while. Just put some more sealant in and keep going, they’ll seal up eventually.

But having had a burp once, I won’t run that tyre/rim combo tubeless again.

I found the bike climbs fine, including out of the saddle, while leaving the shock in ‘trail’mode, I rarely change it.

Question on the forks (t129 standard not the s) the lockout doesn’t fully lock the fork out as it does on my other rock shox recon gold.

It’s not ‘lockout’, it’s better described as ‘very firm damping’, if you take a hit on them or jump on them, they’ll still move. That’s a good thing IMO. As clink says the floodgate setting calibrates how big a hit it takes to activate this (I think).

I went for 700mm Spank Oozy bars, they are brilliant.

Cheers guys.

I spent some time adding more product then painting the sidewall behind rim. Filled it up to see if it would hold and whilst cleaning up the types noticed a puncture on the side wall. It must have been punctured from the very start. Makes me think they did a quick both up job in store. Obviously they haven’t added enough sealant for it to self repair this very small puncture, no sign of any bubble through.

I’m tempted to add a tube to the back wheel with the punctured tyre rather than keep facing, the front tyre seems okay and I would benefit from lower weight on that more.

Will I need to clean away whatever bit of sealant is in the tyre thoroughly before adding the tube back or is it okay to have some sealant still in the wear. Kind of double bagging?

I couldn’t get the stock tyres to stay up tubeless at all, but I am not convinced by them anyway. Currently running Nobby Nics instead which are proving rather fine!

My only gripe is the lack of tyre clearance out back. The 2.25 is as tight a fit as I can go, it would have been nice to have had a little more clearance.

Are you running the nobby nics tubeless?

I gave up on the idea of he heli taping the frame as well, too many angles and bits and pieces to take into account. The angles make it hard to wrap without creasing. I ve just added a bit on the down tube and on cable rub and bike carrier contact points.

I like biking but suck n the mechanics.

Can’t wait to the trails tomorrow as soon as I’ve sorted the tires out. I’ll take a pump just incase.

I don’t really get the heli-taping OCD we see around here, it’s a mountain bike, made for chucking through the muck and rubble. Dents and scratches are badges of honour.

I read that they easily chip so just thought of preserving the lovely paintwork. It always helps I we don’t get on and want to sell on.

Hi there peeps. I’ve had my t-129s for about two months now and it’s been back to the shop twice! I’ve got a horrible turkey gobble sound from front and rear brakes. Seems its common with avid elixir 5’s?! Went into the shop for first service and they said they couldn’t find anything obviously wrong but adjusted and out new pads in. One ride later the noise/vibration was back. Then the fork started going weird. Started randomly locking out and losing travel intermittently as in it would only compress by 1 inch then go solid. Sometimes it would be fine but if you turned the bars and compressed it it would be locked out. Lock out was fully off, flood hate fully open. Bike went back again, forks went off to sram for warranty work. Got them back and the report said dirt in the lowers and too much oil?! Bit strange seeing as that’s how they were when they came from the factory! They did an oil and seal change. The shop adjusted the brakes again and another set of new pads in the rear.
First ride out and the fork felt good again. Brakes did initially but by the end of the ride the turkey gobbles back!
Went out yesterday and now there’s a knocking coming from the forks too! Arrrgh! It’s weird, hold the front brake on and rock the bike back and forwards and you can feel a knocking from the front end. Headset is tight, disc is tight, axle is tight, caliper is tight. It feels like the fork stantions don’t seem to have a tight fit in the legs?!
I love the bike but it’s really starting to grate a bit now. My lbs is being really good about it but I’m losing patience with it all. Anyone else having problems?
Should I contact whyte directly?

The LBS took your money, it’s their job to make sure what they sell you is fit for purpose, but you can always speak to Whyte if you thing the LBS aren’t doing their job.

I don’t think you want to be riding forks or brakes that are making odd noises, these are safety critical components.

I think I’d speak to the LBS again, if you feel strongly ask for replacements not repair. Or ask for a refund on grounds of “not fit for purpose”, they’ll probably refuse, and you go to the small claims process.

The forks on mine have been fine on half a dozen rides, I’ve not used the brakes as I I tend to sell them.

My Lbs have been really good about it but don’t seem to have any ideas about the brakes. I’m guessing next time I go back they’ll ship them off for a warranty inspection too. Seeing as what’s happened with the forks I’m not that confident they’ll be returned sorted! Maybe I’m just being fussy but if I spend the amount I paid for the bike I’d expect everything to work as supposed to. I shouldn’t have to start swapping components etc. I definitely don’t want to return the bike as everything else on it is perfect and it’s brilliant to ride when it’s all working.
Reading online last night it seems that the turkey gobble noise is a common problem that people are having with avid elixirs, no one seems to have a definitive reason why or solution to the problem though.

I have to admit that mine has been faultless. I have always pulled off and sold any Avid brakes that came with a bike, always replaced them with hope. I hate them, never got on with them.

i went tubeless with the stock Ardent on the front and a Mountain king on the rear, went straight up no problems.

My LBS didn’t do a very good job of building my 129s, I had to stick it on the workstand and pretty much re-build it. The cable routing was all over!

@rr to my mind the LBS have done no more than the bare minimum. For your cash it’s their job to deliver a bike that works and is fit for purpose. That’s the deal when you buy something.

They didn’t. You’ve taken it back twice, you’ve started on rides only to find the issues aren’t fixed, you’ve had to go without your new bike each time and shuttle back and forth to the shop, and neither problem is solved. Given that brakes and forks are safety critical parts they shouldn’t be giving you parts back until they are satisfied they are working properly.

I think you’ve been pretty reasonable actually, putting up with all this.

I see where you’re coming from mattjg. I went out today and the brakes are still down on power and making noises. Hoped they might sort themselves out. Guess not! The forks are still knocking, more so I think. Guy I went using with said if it was him he’d take them back again. So, I shall be following yours and his advice and taking them back again. Going to complain as it’s getting silly, been there three times now so seeing as the shops ten miles away that’s gonna be 60 miles worth if fuel in total, let alone the time without the bike. I might give whyte a call too and see what they say. Thanks for the advice though. I’ve also had a thought that the loose fork internals might be amplifying the brake problems?

By the way, I’m running a hans dampf up front and a nobby nic on the rear, both tubeless on the stock rims. They’ve been faultless. Super grippy too.

I can understand why you ditched the avid brakes twoniner, I remember now getting rid of my last set years ago that were on an old bike, I can remember why now!

Revisited Gisburn forest today for my first proper ride since getting the bike, I didn’t compare times as such but it felt like every section was quicker Han last me on m hard tail. Didn’t climb up the steep fire road as well as I hoped but handled the Ricky technical climbs very well.

Fast on the down hills and very nimble overall, only one tight turn had m struggling, if nothing I over steered on occasion but reacted well to get back on track.

Had one almighty spill though as I slipped a bit out of a gravel off camber and it put me in between a dip which when I hit the front of hit it flipped the bike over and me over the bars. The front tyre which I was running tubeless came off the rim and within seconds was flat as a pancake. It took me two hours last night to fail at getting my back tyre running tubeless so I had no chance at the side of the track so added the tube. It was a bloody mess with the sealant spelling out everywhere.

I was concerned I may have damaged the bike but all seems okay apart from a bit of scuffing and a chip out of he bar end stopper.

Suspension seemed to handle everything thrown a it. The brakes seemed fine to me.
The really narrow wheels though seem to flex and skip about on rocky sections and don’t in still much confidence. Climbed quite well but occasional on slab rock and steep sections with loose gravel the rear pun out lying momentum and dumping me off the back. So may need wider or chunkier types, most probably just need to improve my technique.

sounds like you had a good ride … so you ready to upgrade the wheels to hope/flow 29er set up then lol.

@rr good luck, read up on consumer rights so you know where you stand. You’re probably not far off claiming for a refund or new replacement. If they’re not available don’t worry, there’ll be more on a boat from Taiwan soon. It sounds you’ve been unlucky, perhaps you’d be better off with cash in your back pocket than trying to fix a dog.

Commercially the shop possibly care more about their dealership with Whyte than your experience as a customer. If you’re dissatisfied then a chat with Whyte may be beneficial.

I’m looking for a lightish (but strong of course) short length stem around 40 to 50mm for what im told will be more responsive and tighter control.

Any body have any recomendations?

also ive heard the virtues but like every thing there must be a flip side, for what I gain in control and response what would I be losing. Would it effect leverage to do a manual or comfort?

Stems, until I’m sure of the size, I buy a cheapie from ebay to test for fit, then treat myself if I want and the fit is right. But more often, just use what I bought. Stems at 40/50mm are usually ‘downhill’ spec so a tad chunky, but this isn’t an XC weight weenie bike so it doesn’t bother me.

Shorter stem makes lifting the bars easier. I’m still on the stock 70 on my Whyte but will try shorter.

So…. Dropped bike into lbs and showed them what was wrong. They agreed about vibration on the brakes being wrong and the fork knocking. Back to sram it goes. They were decent enough to lend me a giant trance x2 29er to keep me riding in the mean time. Just hope I don’t prefer it! I doubt it highly though.

Fingers crossed its right this time.

Regarding stems, I tried a 40mm on mine and I found The front wheel tended to wash out in corners. Think it was due to not enough weight over the front wheel. I think a 60mm would be perfect for me. I ride a large though with an 80mm as standard. Remember that if you’ve changed to wider bars it has the effect of making your stem longer. Or so I believe.

Brake making them sort of noises sounds very much like you’ve contaminated the pads. When pads have been replaced were the rotors fully cleaned?