What is a clutched rear mech

DickB – do you use 1×10 or are you on a double or triple chainset?

I think they’re more useful/important on 1×10 set ups, where if the chain moves at the front, you don’t have a front mech to lift it back on but often just end up with a dropped/jammed chain. So the clutch mech will halp keep better tension along the bottom run of the chain and reduce the likelihood of the chain coming off.

I’m still using a top guide though for sure.

I have a SRAM X9 clutched mech on a 2×10 full suss Trance 29er and a Shimano SLX clutched on a 1×10 Hardtail Lurcher. Both are excellent and besides the tiny extra cost over the (IMHO now defunct) non-clutch mechs there seems to be no downside. Riding with the clutches engaged all the time on Mendips and Cwmcarn XCs and downhills. I have dropped chains without clutch mechs and don’t us any other type of chain device. Now a thing of the past.

Don’t think you can get a 9speed clutched mech which is a pain as you need to get the chain and cassette to upgrade to 10 rather than keep you 9s stuff.

Andy

Not 100% true, im now running 9 speed with a 10 speed SLX clutched mech. Thanks to this forum, all it took was a 6mm spacer under the cable and it works perfectly.

Long term how durable is the clutch mechanism? considering that its subjected to all the loads that were previously applied to a spring.

Eventually it must start to go “a bit baggy”? How are the earlier efforts faring?

Eventually it must start to go “a bit baggy”? How are the earlier efforts faring?

At least on the Shimano ones you can adjust the clutch tension. Some people have said you should do that after a couple of months, I didn’t really find it necessary. But the option is there.

Or do you mean the clutch pivot itself could becomes baggy side to side? Possibly, I guess. I’ve only had mine 6 months and it’s still very much nice and tight.

Imagine swapping the sound of your mech slapping about for the sound of your tyre rasping against the dirt. Imagine being able to hear the changes in terrain as you’re ripping down your favourite descent. It’s beautiful. Screw your CTD / Kashima koating / 27.5″ wheels, those things are bullshit marketing innovations. Clutch mechs however are fantastic.

Love mine – and as it’s just a sprag bearing with a band brake around it, it’s easily adjustable and should last pretty well I’d have thought. They seem fairly well sealed, unlike the jockey wheel bearings… 🙂

They’re great but not magic unless my 2 aren’t set up properly.

Slap against chainstay is eliminated, slap against the front mech cage is still there on rough stuff. Don’t see how tensioning the bottom run of the chain can stop the top run of the chain moving from side to side.

As a result bumpy descents still generate clattering 🙁

There isn’t much you can do about the front mech noise, as its generally side to side chain slap that causes it.

The only real solution is to man up and ditch the front mech. You will still get some chain noise, and slap into the spokes etc, but generally it’s a lot quieter.

As an early adopter, I’ve had a Saint clutch mech over 12 months now, and its looking a bit worse for wear, but there has been a lot of riding, racing DH & enduro’s, 3 weeks in the Alps including the Mega & a minging winter. All cosmetic though. I took it apart and get it a clean & regrease inside, but otherwise no issues at all.

I have had a couple for a while and they do seem to get through jockey wheel bearings more quickly. Not surprising with the increased loads/tension the jockey wheels are under.
Still well worth it. Simple/cheap real world improvement.

2×10 and before that 3×9; 3×8; 3×7 and started with 2×5…

Single chainring with a mech does make more sense now you have mentioned it, but again, the bikes I’ve seen with a single up front (a grand total of about 3), never lost the chain…but I suspect they had some sort of chain device.