But the Mini Turtle has a very different case shape and no day complication, and it’s Prospex, a step up to a higher price/quality point in the Seiko range.

Sorry, I meant that Seiko seem to regard it as the replacement. It has a lot of the things that skx buyers wanted/modded to. The case is a semi classic shape which I suppose they hope will catch on and be the next classic Seiko.

The SKX is now, apparently, part of the ‘5’ range – https://youtu.be/j5hxeSfu720

There is a disturbing amount of indistinguishable flesh in that photo.

Hadn’t occurred to me! My wrist is resting on my right knee, and my ankles are crossed, that’s my left ankle with the red line below my sock.
Just for clarity, you understand… 😁

CZ – that photo reminded me of finding hedgeporn!

That fleshy hue you’d catch in your peripheral vision and the subsequent butterflies in the stomach at the thought of an imminent find and some “alone time.”

CZ – that photo reminded me of finding hedgeporn!

😉

You’re a bad man CountZero. I’ve just made a late night purchase of an SKX009 with a Strapcode bracelet

Always fancied an SKX but could never make my mind up between a 007 and a 009. Time will tell if I made the right choice!

Always fancied an SKX but could never make my mind up between a 007 and a 009. Time will tell if I made the right choice!

The bezel’s the only difference, it’s readily available and an easy swap. Have both!

tried posting a pic.
Failed.
Ignore.

DrP

You’re a bad man CountZero. I’ve just made a late night purchase of an SKX009 with a Strapcode bracelet

A fine choice, mine is well used and well loved. Currently on a dark blue NATO for weekend usage but it also looks great on a bracelet and even a leather strap.

The bezel’s the only difference, it’s readily available and an easy swap. Have both!

and the dial. The SKX009 is blue. It is such a dark blue that it looks black in a lot of light.

Anyone know if there is a blue version of the skx171 dial? Love the 009 but would really like an applied markers dial, a la 171. The Turtle faces fit, I believe but they are a lighter blue. Really like the really dark blue of the 009.

and the dial. The SKX009 is blue. It is such a dark blue that it looks black in a lot of light

Of course you’re absolutely right, I forgot the dial. Makes my idea about switching between the 2 more or less on a whim not quite so straightforward.

So you pop off the bezel then unscrew the case back, remove the crown, take out the movement and take off the hands, swap the dial for a black one, put the hands back on, put the movement back in the case and replace the crown then screw the case back on. Then press the new bezel on and hey presto, SKX007!

Easy.

hey presto, SKX007!

Pretty much, yeah. 😁
The real fun comes with modding using dial and hand styled after different models, like the Marine Master, or different makes, like Tudor’s ‘snowflake’ hands.
Then there’s chapter rings, crystals, bezels, bezel inserts, casebacks…
I’m going for the marine master dial and hands, with coin-edge bezel and fully lumped ceramic bezel insert.
Oh, and a 6f15 hackable and hand winding movement with steel Tuna shroud.
Which will add to the original cost, obviously, but will be nothing like what an actual Tuna would cost.
Plus I can buy the bits as and when, then get it assembled later, spreading the cost.

So it turns out I’ve got one of these on the way to try 😁 Slightly worried it’ll be a bit big for my twig wrists but will give it a try.

So it arrived today 😀 it’s lovely!

But is too big for my weedy wrists as I thought it might be.

Seiko 5 on the way now with a view to get something else in the future.

So it arrived today 😀 it’s lovely!

But is too big for my weedy wrists as I thought it might be.

That’s a shame, it’s a handsome piece. I take it you’ve worn it around a bit to get used to it? If I’ve been wearing my 37mm SNK805 for a few days then put on a 42mm diver it seems enormous for the first hour or so then I sort of acclimatise.

phil5556 – I like that. If it’s not rude to ask, what model number is it / where from?

@igm Seiko Men’s Analogue Automatic Watch with Stainless Steel Bracelet – SRPA25K1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01JAQ3G1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tlZvDbVHEKXB8

Amazon was the best price, took about 5 days to come I think.

That’s a shame, it’s a handsome piece. I take it you’ve worn it around a bit to get used to it?

I can’t unfortunately without shortening the strap. It really is big, just measured lug to lug and it’s going on 50mm.

Think I need about 38mm, maybe 40 at a push. And I’m struggling to find anything that size from Seiko.

AWC SEIKO SKX007 PLANET OCEAN *NH35* movement MOD

Not sure how to post pics but I’ve done this mod to my old SKX007 minus the movement change, I have a mate who tinkers with watches for fun who helped me out.

I can’t unfortunately without shortening the strap. It really is big, just measured lug to lug and it’s going on 50mm.

Think I need about 38mm, maybe 40 at a push. And I’m struggling to find anything that size from Seiko.

That 50mm lug-to-lug will certainly tend to make it wear big. Still, if it’s Amazon you’ve a month to get hold of a £2 pin tool to shorten the strap and wear it around the house a bit…

My only dress watch.

Seiko Presage with ice blue starburst dial.

Beautiful watch.

Really not into dress watch styles, but those two Seikos above are handsome beasts for sure.
I’ve had a rethink on having my SKX007 converted to take a shroud, the case is in perfect condition, and having a steel shroud fitted requires a fair bit of machining to make it fit, which would be a shame. If I’d been able to find a bare case for reasonable money, or a really worn complete watch for less than I paid for mine, then it would be worth the sacrifice, but all of the auctions I followed ended up at £175 or higher, so no chance.
I’m going ahead with the other mods, and I’ll get a black plastic Dragon Shroud, which clips under the case to protect the case from knocks, which won’t detract from the overall appearance.
Really pleased with it, it wears lightly, with the nylon ZULU strap, it’s dead easy to read at a glance, and it’s keeping reasonably time, gaining a little bit; ill give it a month or so, then have a go at regulating it.

There’s a six case on eBay right now. $69 US. There’s also Namoki? Namodi? who used to make their own case which was an aftermarket SKX case. They used to be about £50. You could also try chronograph.com or dagaz or yobokies or dlw for a case. Then you’d have both.

Toolwatch is a good app for regulation and free.
Remember it’s a slow patient process, smaller than you thought could be done changes and then use the app over several days to evaluate. Then repeat. Do remember that how you rest your watch over night can significantly alter it’s +/- spd.

how you rest your watch over night can significantly alter it’s +/- spd

Now, I’m in the ambivalent category when it comes to how many seconds my watch is inaccurate by, but this intrigued me – please explain?

The hairspring’s axis of rotation is perpendicular to the dial. Put the watch face down or face up means the entire weight of the spring rests on the upper or lower end of the staff. Slight variations in the finish of the end or amounts of lubrication mean more or less friction. Points between the face up and face down position reduce the weight on the ends of the staff and reduce/increase friction

In the vertical positions (crown up, down and all points between i.e. the dial is perpendicular to the ground) means that the coilspring sinks slightly so the coils get close together on the downside and further apart on the upside, which also affects the weight/friction on the bearing points/jewels. The weight of the coil itself will not be perfectly distributed, so the position of the heavy part up/down and side to side will affect amplitude.
The vertical position also increases friction on the balance wheel (both ends are bearing, instead of one) which reduces amplitude.
There have been attempts to account for this over the years, the Tourbilion movement was supposed to help. The co-axial escapement was another attempt. Or you can just do what Rolex suggested 60 years or so ago “if your watch gains or loses a few seconds a day, remove it at night. To gain a few seconds, lay it flat with dial uppermost. To lose a few seconds lay the watch vertically with the winding button downwards. To lose rather more seconds, lay the watch vertically with the winding button uppermost”

COSC Chronometer certification requires the watch to maintain its accuracy in (I think) 5 positions. Although it might be 7

If that isn’t far enough down the rabbit hole, google “lift angle”

Crikey, thanks.  This thread is a continual education into the history, complicity and shear awesomeness of watch mechanics!

That’s brilliant, my watch is a gainer, I’ll try the night time vertical storage. Thanks!

@cromolyolly – thanks for that, you’ve clarified things better, I reckon, than anything I’ve read anywhere else!
I’m copying that into my Notes for future reference.

HTH.

BTW – @tthew – what works for Rolex won’t necessarily work for you – depends on your particular watch and movement – The general rules will apply – dial up /down should gain, dial vertical should lose but crown up/down dial up/down to get less/more change will vary from maker to maker and movement to movement. Depends, I suppose on where the coils of the spring start/end and so on. You could just experiment or you could Google your watch, someone has almost certainly done the experiment for you.

I find my watches are most accurate when worn 24/7.
Toolwatch is great for this.

cromolyolly- what an explanation! got to love STW! sometimes a real Jem of an answer comes up and that’s one. Will try your suggestions, although I find my watches are most accurate when worn 24/7.
Toolwatch is great for this.

thanks for that, you’ve clarified things better, I reckon, than anything I’ve read anywhere else!

Agreed, I’m aware of the concept but haven’t seen the reasons behind it put so lucidly, thanks.
Personally I’d rather a 10 second gainer than a 3 second loser just because it’s a trivial thing to correct (assuming it hacks!) – just pull out the crown for the requisite number of seconds and you’re good.

Very pleased to be able to contribute to the community! Thanks.

Also just realised I completely cocked up the coil spring bit. gravity pulls it down so the parts of the coil on the low side get further apart, top side get closer together. Got that bit backwards, sorry, but you got the idea

The postman’s just been with my (sort of) impulse buy of a couple of days ago! If there’s any watch style I didn’t need another of it’s a diver but somehow here we are again. This will positively definitely be the last watch purchase of 2019…

Johnners, nice is that the new mako 3?
I’ve been looking for a cheapish diver and i’m quite tempted by one of those.
I’d like to add an automatic watch to my meger collection. I currently have a swiss Actua from the 50’s issued to Italian artillery officers which was left to me from an uncle. A couple of old quartz ediface things and a beater casio diver that refuses to die.

Johnners, nice is that the new mako 3?

Orient call it the Kamasu, at least in the US market. I’ve seen it referred to as the Mako 3/Ray 3 all over the place though. Amazon UK just call it “Orient Mens RA-AA0003R19B” which is super catchy!

a beater casio diver that refuses to die

I’ve an old “Blue Thunder” Casio digital which is pushing 40 years old and still works pretty well. It’s a bit of a mess and the pushers don’t work the module the way they should (I’m stuck with a daily alarm at 11:30 which I can’t disable!) but I still wear it now and then. Casios are great!

I’ve just bought my first NATO!

A navy blue and white number (sniperbay) for my Scurfa Diver One.

Another collection to fund…

Postman arrived with my SKX. I like!

Hummm that Orient Kamasu is definitely going on the list, although I might save a bit more for the Stienhart Ocean One 39, which is lovely.
I keep coming back to the Citizen Ny0040, real tool like look about it, which I like plus its not going to be available for much longer.

For a little bit more than a steinhart you could get a Magrette for a great and much less common diver

So proud owners of SKXs (with good eyesight, a loupe or magnifier) settle a debate – the brushing on the lugs – which way does the grain go? Does it follow the circle of the bezel or does it go straight in line with the strap?

Also, anyone measured the lug to lug?