I’ve ridden in Courmayeur regularly for over a decade now – usually when based in Chamonix as the conditions on the Italian side have often been better, but have also done a weeks holiday there for the past couple of years.
It’s a nice little resort thankfully devoid of of too much apres nonsense, it’s frequently very quiet midweek and although it isn’t a massive ski area, there is quite a bit of variety with some wide open runs and some trees on the Val Veny side (good when the visablity is low)
There are also plenty of opportunities to head into the backcountry off the Yula & Arp lifts, or off the Helbronner on the other side of the valley.
Oh – and the coffee is great!
Courmayeur – Italian Espresso – 1.20 Euro
Grand Montets – French Brown Gritty ‘Coffee’ – 5 Euro