The Rock Climbing Thread

If you lead The Bat with grades in hand you won’t experience the fight only the fact that the big corner pitch is rather scruffy close up and the other pitches a bit so-whatish. If it’s at your limit it then you’ll enjoy the fight. The Bat now has four E6s as neighbours, some of exceptional quality.

Have climbed the Bat the crux corner is pretty full on and usually wet, another great classic that feels like Alpine rock is minus one direct, quite often a bergschrund at the bottom.

Ooft, hard work today. What’s ‘bouldering mats hover and blow away mid crux’ on the Beaufort Scale? 🙂

Ooft, hard work today. What’s ‘bouldering mats hover and blow away mid crux’ on the Beaufort Scale? 🙂

…and take out a kid who’s on a Sunday stroll with their parents – no never happened to me 🙂

(please note – no children were harmed in the making of this anecdote)

Anyone want to buy an Alfine wheel?

@Spin bit of a resurrection but I am actually interested. Can’t work out how to send a DM!

@rsl1 DM working again so yhm.

Suggestions for winter sport climbing destinations please…

Done Mallorca and El Chorro in November before and both were pretty wet. Sardinia was nice then, and Tenerife had great weather in January but not so nice rock.

Really want some nice long lines. Thinking Kalymnos, but flights are apparently bad in winter, which leaves Leonidio as an option… Any experience of it in winter?

Cheers

I did an orange today,

That is all.*

…….

I am pleased, actually very pleased as I tried it about 80 times over two sessions, whereas normally I’m a circuits kinda guy. This is my first orange, and probably my only orange. And it was kinda slabby and soft touch, but you gotta take the wins where you can. (Depot, not ‘bleau)

* Apologies, clearly it wasn’t all :-). But it is now

Oops dupe….

Nice one.

What’s an orange? Is this another bloody grading system?

It was the future twenty years ago…

What’s an orange? Is this another bloody grading system?

Yes, it relates the size of the holds to the size of citrus fruits. You start off on pomelo and progress towards kumquat.

Depot Orange? Quite tough. Good work. Talking of food at the Depot, I understand the rocky roads are not stocked there anymore. Pffft.

‘Kumquats…when clementines aren’t that hard any more and mandarins are approaching a rest.’

I understand the rocky roads are not stocked there anymore. Pffft.

True but the pizza dude  occasionally makes a batch of chocolate brownies when he’s not too busy pizzaing.

Which are very good

Kumquats…when clementines aren’t that hard any more and mandarins are approaching a rest

Well played sir :-).

I understand the rocky roads are not stocked there anymore. Pffft.

True but the pizza dude  occasionally makes a batch of chocolate brownies when he’s not too busy pizzaing.

Which are very good

Kumquats…when clementines aren’t that hard any more and mandarins are approaching a rest

Well played sir :-).

Depot Orange?

These are just pleasing on the eye works of modern art that the setters put up to express their inner selves. There’s no actual holds or anything, you’re just meant to admire them

Fresh chocolate brownies? Sheffield? I’m only there occasionally, but we went to the Works instead last Sunday morning. Good, but busy. Expected though as the crags were wet.  Next time, back to the Depot with this important cake based knowledge.

.

The brownies, or at least these hand crafted brownies, are at Trafford Depot.  But are only sporadically available.

So caveat grimpeur as people on the Franco Italian border might have said 2000 years ago.

Fresh chocolate brownies? Sheffield? I’m only there occasionally, but we went to the Works instead last Sunday morning.

If cakes is what you want, try Puck and Pollen just around the corner from the works. You might not end up going climbing though…

Well yes, can’t be taking any unnecessary risks on serious issues such as this.

Talking of risks, I need to re-sling my cams. (all sorts of makes). Where are folk sending cams off to nowadays? Or diy with a doubled up 30cm sling and something captive to keep it all together? Or fat tape and tape knot?

Puck and Pollen looks good!

Probably will sit lighter than the Norooz kebab I had before a session a while ago. It was good though.

,Ineed to re-sling my cams. (all sorts of makes). Where are folk sending cams off to nowadays? Or diy with a doubled up 30cm sling and something

I’d heard that some companies now refuse to resling stuff older than x years old. Which is a bit of a pisser.

Having said which, the last Friend I had reslung was so old that it had a hexagonal nut on the axle ends…. must have been forty years old!

Ok. Mine aren’t quite that old! I have quadcams, aliens, and friends all from late ’90’s through to c 2004 or so. All well used, but well maintained. Nothing needs doing apart from slings. I will check the x years old thing, so it might end up being diy. No rigid stems! I was a sport climber before trad, so when I started building a trad rack the rigid stemmed friends were already superceded.

DMM will resling their own cams, but otherwise there’s nowt. Some discussion about it here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/resling_bd_camalot_c4s_in_uk_or_chamonix-776279?

DMM will resling their own cams, but otherwise there’s nowt. Some discussion about it here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/resling_bd_camalot_c4s_in_uk_or_chamonix-776279?

You can buy precut lengths of dyneema cord from Needlesport and DIY. Having previously done it with tape and tape knots this is much better.

https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Climbing/Rock-Trad-Climbing/Cord-Tape/Beal-Dyneema-Cord-55mm-Blue075-metre-for-Single-Loop-Cam-Restringing-BEA-DYNEEMAC075M

I’ve got a nice new set and reslung my old ones like this for when I need doublers.

On another note, I climbed with a partner’s Ultralight Camalots. Holy shit, what a difference.

Ok, that looks quite neat, certainly neater than tape knots. I’ll do that then it’s all done in one go. Thanks for the link.

Ultralight camalots? That’s current tech.  I am firmly in the past! Just pulling the rack back together to teach the already very strong kids some trad technique. Talking about current tech, I was handed what I thought was a half rope the other day, only to be told it’s triple rated, so fine as a single! 8.5mm of single rope? Well it might be. All my belay devices say no though.

Yeah, I’ve got one of them it’s a bit disconcerting when you started out with an 11mm single rope!

I won’t be getting out anytime soon. I’ve been bouldering with my nephew but he isn’t too good with heights and routes.

I have been taking my 6 year old to eden rock and he loves it. 

Apologies, can’t be arsed finding the spikes thread

Grivel has 30% off BF just now I’m case anyone needs new crampons or axes

I hummed and hahhed on new tools and didn’t buy anything as really the money spent there would be better used on more trips