Home Forums Chat Forum The Rock Climbing Thread

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  • The Rock Climbing Thread
  • chickenman
    Full Member

    If you lead The Bat with grades in hand you won’t experience the fight only the fact that the big corner pitch is rather scruffy close up and the other pitches a bit so-whatish. If it’s at your limit it then you’ll enjoy the fight. The Bat now has four E6s as neighbours, some of exceptional quality.

    fergal
    Free Member

    Have climbed the Bat the crux corner is pretty full on and usually wet, another great classic that feels like Alpine rock is minus one direct, quite often a bergschrund at the bottom.

    1
    Spin
    Free Member

    Ooft, hard work today. What’s ‘bouldering mats hover and blow away mid crux’ on the Beaufort Scale? 🙂

    1
    olddog
    Full Member

    Ooft, hard work today. What’s ‘bouldering mats hover and blow away mid crux’ on the Beaufort Scale? 🙂

    …and take out a kid who’s on a Sunday stroll with their parents – no never happened to me 🙂

    (please note – no children were harmed in the making of this anecdote)

    rsl1
    Free Member

    Anyone want to buy an Alfine wheel?


    @Spin
    bit of a resurrection but I am actually interested. Can’t work out how to send a DM!

    Spin
    Free Member

    @rsl1 DM working again so yhm.

    thegeneralist
    Free Member

    Suggestions for winter sport climbing destinations please…

    Done Mallorca and El Chorro in November before and both were pretty wet. Sardinia was nice then, and Tenerife had great weather in January but not so nice rock.

    Really want some nice long lines. Thinking Kalymnos, but flights are apparently bad in winter, which leaves Leonidio as an option… Any experience of it in winter?

    Cheers

    4
    thegeneralist
    Free Member

    I did an orange today,

    That is all.*

    …….

    I am pleased, actually very pleased as I tried it about 80 times over two sessions, whereas normally I’m a circuits kinda guy. This is my first orange, and probably my only orange. And it was kinda slabby and soft touch, but you gotta take the wins where you can. (Depot, not ‘bleau)

    * Apologies, clearly it wasn’t all :-). But it is now

    thegeneralist
    Free Member

    Oops dupe….

    Spin
    Free Member

    Nice one.

    jam-bo
    Full Member

    What’s an orange? Is this another bloody grading system?

    chickenman
    Full Member

    It was the future twenty years ago…

    Spin
    Free Member

    What’s an orange? Is this another bloody grading system?

    Yes, it relates the size of the holds to the size of citrus fruits. You start off on pomelo and progress towards kumquat.

    Yak
    Full Member

    Depot Orange? Quite tough. Good work. Talking of food at the Depot, I understand the rocky roads are not stocked there anymore. Pffft.

    1
    martinhutch
    Full Member

    ‘Kumquats…when clementines aren’t that hard any more and mandarins are approaching a rest.’

    thegeneralist
    Free Member

    I understand the rocky roads are not stocked there anymore. Pffft.

    True but the pizza dude  occasionally makes a batch of chocolate brownies when he’s not too busy pizzaing.

    Which are very good

    Kumquats…when clementines aren’t that hard any more and mandarins are approaching a rest

    Well played sir :-).

    thegeneralist
    Free Member

    I understand the rocky roads are not stocked there anymore. Pffft.

    True but the pizza dude  occasionally makes a batch of chocolate brownies when he’s not too busy pizzaing.

    Which are very good

    Kumquats…when clementines aren’t that hard any more and mandarins are approaching a rest

    Well played sir :-).

    3
    johnx2
    Free Member

    Depot Orange?

    These are just pleasing on the eye works of modern art that the setters put up to express their inner selves. There’s no actual holds or anything, you’re just meant to admire them

    Yak
    Full Member

    Fresh chocolate brownies? Sheffield? I’m only there occasionally, but we went to the Works instead last Sunday morning. Good, but busy. Expected though as the crags were wet.  Next time, back to the Depot with this important cake based knowledge.

    Yak
    Full Member

    .

    thegeneralist
    Free Member

    The brownies, or at least these hand crafted brownies, are at Trafford Depot.  But are only sporadically available.

    So caveat grimpeur as people on the Franco Italian border might have said 2000 years ago.

    rsl1
    Free Member

    Fresh chocolate brownies? Sheffield? I’m only there occasionally, but we went to the Works instead last Sunday morning.

    If cakes is what you want, try Puck and Pollen just around the corner from the works. You might not end up going climbing though…

    Yak
    Full Member

    Well yes, can’t be taking any unnecessary risks on serious issues such as this.

    Talking of risks, I need to re-sling my cams. (all sorts of makes). Where are folk sending cams off to nowadays? Or diy with a doubled up 30cm sling and something captive to keep it all together? Or fat tape and tape knot?

    Yak
    Full Member

    Puck and Pollen looks good!

    Probably will sit lighter than the Norooz kebab I had before a session a while ago. It was good though.

    thegeneralist
    Free Member

    ,Ineed to re-sling my cams. (all sorts of makes). Where are folk sending cams off to nowadays? Or diy with a doubled up 30cm sling and something

    I’d heard that some companies now refuse to resling stuff older than x years old. Which is a bit of a pisser.

    Having said which, the last Friend I had reslung was so old that it had a hexagonal nut on the axle ends…. must have been forty years old!

    Yak
    Full Member

    Ok. Mine aren’t quite that old! I have quadcams, aliens, and friends all from late ’90’s through to c 2004 or so. All well used, but well maintained. Nothing needs doing apart from slings. I will check the x years old thing, so it might end up being diy. No rigid stems! I was a sport climber before trad, so when I started building a trad rack the rigid stemmed friends were already superceded.

    1
    stewmur
    Full Member

    DMM will resling their own cams, but otherwise there’s nowt. Some discussion about it here:
    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/resling_bd_camalot_c4s_in_uk_or_chamonix-776279?

    stewmur
    Full Member

    DMM will resling their own cams, but otherwise there’s nowt. Some discussion about it here:

    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/resling_bd_camalot_c4s_in_uk_or_chamonix-776279?

    1
    Spin
    Free Member

    You can buy precut lengths of dyneema cord from Needlesport and DIY. Having previously done it with tape and tape knots this is much better.

    https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Climbing/Rock-Trad-Climbing/Cord-Tape/Beal-Dyneema-Cord-55mm-Blue075-metre-for-Single-Loop-Cam-Restringing-BEA-DYNEEMAC075M

    1
    Spin
    Free Member

    PXL-20241129-155346352

    I’ve got a nice new set and reslung my old ones like this for when I need doublers.

    Spin
    Free Member

    On another note, I climbed with a partner’s Ultralight Camalots. Holy shit, what a difference.

    Yak
    Full Member

    Ok, that looks quite neat, certainly neater than tape knots. I’ll do that then it’s all done in one go. Thanks for the link.

    Ultralight camalots? That’s current tech.  I am firmly in the past! Just pulling the rack back together to teach the already very strong kids some trad technique. Talking about current tech, I was handed what I thought was a half rope the other day, only to be told it’s triple rated, so fine as a single! 8.5mm of single rope? Well it might be. All my belay devices say no though.

    Spin
    Free Member

    Yeah, I’ve got one of them it’s a bit disconcerting when you started out with an 11mm single rope!

    jamiemcf
    Full Member

    I won’t be getting out anytime soon. I’ve been bouldering with my nephew but he isn’t too good with heights and routes.

    I have been taking my 6 year old to eden rock and he loves it. PXL_20241123_144032262

    thegeneralist
    Free Member

    Apologies, can’t be arsed finding the spikes thread

    Grivel has 30% off BF just now I’m case anyone needs new crampons or axes

    wbo
    Free Member

    I hummed and hahhed on new tools and didn’t buy anything as really the money spent there would be better used on more trips

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