The Rock Climbing Thread

Jimmy – it really was a perfect day for it – felt like there was no rush at all. Was that Crowberry Ridge indirect you were on? Recommended?

does it have to be sport climbing? The bouldering in Torridon is ace

Hmmm. I’m very much a circuit boulderer rather than projects, so need loads of easy stuff to get in the zone, then gradually build it up from there. So I love Brimham, and ‘bleau, but never really got much from other places, Torridon included.  I think a few routes would work better.

Have you climbed at Moy? It’s right on your way and there are some great routes but it’s not everyone’s cup of tea.

Mmm. TBH I’m not expecting amazing lines etc. for most UK crags there’s usually a damn good reason why it was never developed pre-sport era. So I’m not expecting much. I only rope climb maybe 5 days in a year, so don’t have the confidence to be doing big serious trad on HellsLum or anything. Just want to get som e mileage in. If you know something with mellow non serious Sev to HVS then tell me that..

Looks like I’ve got a week free to go climbing towards the end of October. Most likely Yorkshire if the weather plays ball.

Shout if you fancy meeting up in the Peak for a day.

Come to think of it, a trip to Almscliffev for a bit of GW and OHG would equally be amazing…. Been a long time.

If you know something with mellow non serious Sev to HVS then tell me that..

Huntley’s Cave, closer to Aviemore.

If it’s good over in Torridon then there are a few options. Stone Valley has lots of decent routes in that bracket.

Huntley’s Cave, closer to Aviemore

I tried a search, but all that comes up on UKC are loads of pictures of the Gunks :-)

It’s just north of Granton on Spey, you’ll find it on the “find a crag” map.

@aldo56 – it was the indirect route, aye. Yeah I’d recommend it – would like to solo it for the experience as it’s fairly exposed climbing out of the gully onto the ridge proper. Would also like to do the Direct route.

Has an STW climbing meet been suggested? I’m really keen to do more climbing but struggle for partners who want to climb beyond Diff grades – not that I’m looking to push grades, but up to HVS kinda territory would be great.

Where you based Jimmy?

I’m in Manchester

Back to this weekend. Any views on the Nose of Sgurr s Choereachan  ( sp,)

(Would be a group of three)

Edinburgh.

My other issue is time and planning, but given notice it’s usually fine.

Looks good @jimmy, I’m Edinburgh based but not doing much climbing these days, I’ve started bouldering again with my Nephew at Eden Rock.
I was always happy cruising and enjoying the movement outside (up to about HVS) but inside pushing it.

Back to this weekend. Any views on the Nose of Sgurr s Choereachan ( sp,)

(Would be a group of three)

It’s superb and highly scenic. All pretty steady and reasonable pro. Could be busy (by Scottish standards) if the weather is good. There’s still a lot of ground to cover up the ridge after the Severe bit including some sections some might want to pitch.

@thegeneralist where did you end up then?

I’m pretty sure I saw a photo of sunset and a barbecue on Sgurr na Ciche in one of the other threads, so assume he did The Nose or a parallel route. (Not really stalking, as such)

Ey up.

Great weekend. Did Cairngorm/MacDui on Thursday.

Friday we did Sword of Gideon from Beallach na Ba.

Couldn’t do the nose as we only had about 3 hours.

Awesome camp on the pass.

Then Torridon Lollipop,

with another late finish

Supposed to do Seanna a Mhallaen(sp) on Sunday but with an eight hour drive on the cards I decided Moy would be more sensible.

Really enjoyed it. Lead 5 routes, which is ok as a three. Tried a lovely 6b+ up the middle of one of the walls. Lovely. Took a few big lobs trying to get the chain.

Anyway, excellent weekend. Not quite as hectic as my weekends used to be, but damn good.

Also quite special as my son is now almost the same age as I was last time I attempted Sword of Gideon 30 years ago. Really great to share these adventures with him.

Nice one. How good is Sword of Gideon?

Not changed very much in 32 years, judging by my old photo…

I recall it being steep, exposed and juggy. Brilliant.

I always had it in my head that I’d like to solo SoG because Patey soloed the FA. Turned up one day with a bunch of mates who were pitching it and just went for it, perhaps slightly emboldened by the fact that they could always rescue me if I bottled it. I obviously had the good head on because I came back down and soloed the direct start. That sort of stuff seems a long way away now!

Show us yer boards!

Anyone want to buy an Alfine wheel? ;)

35deg garden board from when we just built it in June. Now has plenty of wood holds on, some new, some used from a friend and some I made. Also lots more small screw-ons for feet to keep feet off the woods. Some resin slopers added too.

Board is 2.5 full size ply boards + small kickboard on a treated softwood frame. 3 full boards was just too tall for the location, but 2.5 still gives enough board space.

Nice. How practical is that being outdoors? I’m probably a bit further north than you but I know there would be plenty of nights in the winter I wouldn’t fancy doing an outside session.

The board is weatherproofed on the back and there’s a drip on the top edge so water doesn’t run/track onto the climbing face, so it’s always dry. But the landing /mat area will get wet. So dry days only really. Faces W so evening sun.

No space indoors, so only option was the garden. An indoor board would be amazing though. Son is asking for a campus board too, so might have to rebuild the pull up bar bit to the R to have a campus board.

You look you have some good height there for your indoor set up . Looks good.

Yeah, it works for me. It’s been through a few incarnations. Although I probably had the room for a proper board I didn’t think it would have worked much better other than being less boring to train on. I now just take the laptop out and watch something between sets so it’s not too soul crushing!