Tell me about garage roller doors

Thinking about replacing my old up and over door with a roller door. Wondered if anyone has any experiences of them. Any good with security? Do they need to be powered?

I have one and hate it….it never runs straight and keeps poping out of the runners

it isnt powered so that may be the problem, as i may be pushing it to one side when opening

security wise just the same as up and over if not worse as it only secures in 2 locations

Not a roller but I use a sectional door. Mush more solid. Only had it powered because that means no handle for undesirables to try and interfere with.

Hormann sectional door ftw.

Brilliant bit of kit, way way more secure than an up and over since you would have to beat the crap out of it to get in – basically rip it apart, and it’s chunky.

Up and over takes 5 seconds to open, or 15 with a defender attached.

Only had it powered because that means no handle for undesirables to try and interfere with

Exactly this. Garage door seller said that someone had got into a non powered door by drilling a hole and flicking the catch from the other side.

I’ve got a powered one, made out of some form of heavy grade plastic. No problems with security yet, although once when I was cycling to work, I pressed the one touch “close” button on it and didn’t wait to watch it go all the way down. My neighbour had to wake the miss us to tell her it had stopped 2 feet off the floor! It also has a manual “winch” in case of power cuts.

I’ve just nipped out to see what make it is but can’t see any manufacturers name (it was fitted on the house when I bought it)

Mines a Hormann as well. I was told that if someone tries to jack the door up, the motor pushes back to match the force applied.

we’ve got one, love it

you can park closer to it and store stuff closer to it inside. you don’t lose all that ceiling space for hanging stuff too.

can’t remember the make, it’s not powered though

Hmm. House we’re (hopefully) buying has the original double door from the 60s.

I doubt there’s much wrong with it, but it seems to be the easiest way into the house – flip the door, close it, casually set to work on the internal door with my tools.

So, what door and what electrical kit?

Had a powered one fitted a couple of years ago, mainly for security.
It’s needed a couple of minor adjustments to its auto ‘double locking’ bolts (DIY job), after one of our builders thicko labourers decided to play ‘up & downies’ with the door, but other than that it’s been v.reliable. I’ve had similar problem to one of the other postees, in that once it didn’t close fully because of a power cut – my own fault, as the fitter did advise me to watch it close fully before driving off (it also comes with a manual winding handle in case of power cuts). Oh, the one we have it quite tough, as it survived my wifes Panda 4×4 rolling down our steep drive into it – it was ‘parked’ like that overnight aswell :roll:

We got a roller door.
They can rattle a bit in the wind. But solved this with pipe insulation down the one runner channel.

I think they are much more secure than the up & over type garage doors. I bolt mine closed at the bottom also for xtra security.

I have a Gliderol which is v good.

I was told that if someone tries to jack the door up, the motor pushes back to match the force applied.

Not quite – the top section of the door goes into a different track which has a right angled corner. The motor pulls this section back horizontally. So the only way in is to force the top bit back which is quite hard since a) it’s above head height and b) there’s a big solid metal catch holding it shut.

The only way in is large scale destruction. Possible of course, but not quick or stealthy.

We too have a gliderol standard locks in two places but with the addition of a grounded centralized anchor point and lock. Very good IME.

My folks have one and love it, though it was high end one. The security features are great, and an unexpected bonus was that the old garage door frame was taken out giving them a door 4 inches wider, which is quite useful on a narrow modern garage – Dad has measured up and when he wins the lottery, he will be able to fit a Jag in there now!

Pants.
Spent years fitting them and i’d never have one on my garage.

powered Hormann +1 v happy.
good contact for one in Halifax if you want a number

Flatfish you would think if you’ve spent years fitting them you would have more to say than ‘pants’.

Explain please.

Three main reasons,

Cold.
Noisy/Rattly when windy and in use.
Very unsecure.

I’m still in the security business (Locksmith) and if any customers are sure they want them fitted, I’ll fit them. I will however, try and talk them out of it if there is a better solution to their security problem.

My father in law has one fitted, never heard it rattle in the wind and I can’t see how it could be any colder or less secure than an up and over door.

Well, why don’t you get one then.

Well, why don’t you get one then.

Priceless !……….thanks flatfish :D

flatfish,

what would you recommend to make an up and over door more secure?
my garage door is the type with a spring above the door internally.

I’ve got these on both my garage doors

http://www.lockcentre.com/pacri-garage-door-bolt-p-302.html

Cheaper version here, although these have a longer key which is a bit inconvenient if you keep it on your regular keyring,
http://www.directlocks.co.uk/enfield-high-security-garage-door-bolts-with-hardened-molybdenum-bolt-federal-p-2433.html

Cold.
Noisy/Rattly when windy and in use.
Very unsecure

That presumably applies to the roller kind that you get on industrial units, rather than sectional style ones…

What sort of cost are we looking at?

My Harmonn door was about 600 quid or so from the shop, and the opener another 200. Me and my dad fitted it in a day. By a happy coincidence, 800 quid is the figure Homeserve quoted to replace the original crappy door*, so that’s what the insurance company paid me :)

However that was only in one specific colour, finish and pattern. All the other lovely finish options pushed the price of the whole lot up to a grand or so, which I thought was weird. The finish we got was the fake wood grain (looks like painted wood). I wanted smooth and narrower slats but that was more for some reason, as was thicker insulation.

It’s an integral garage btw and the garage itself is way way warmer now.

* that the builders told me cost them 150 quid wholesale.

cheers

If you are near Cardiff I can give you the number – good chap.

We had one fitted after the up-and-over door finally fell on my head!

Lot better than the door it replaced, more space, warmer, quieter – but the old door was really crap!

There are security versions of the doors which have deadlocks. If someone wants to get enough they will do – all this does is to make it more difficult than the neighbours

I’ve got a pair of those locks that Flatfish posted on my Up N Over. Quite discreet (doesn’t scream Look at me!! I have expensive stuff inside!!) and easy to fit / use.

Don’t forget to remove the strange long key from your keyring before flying anywhere though. It looks somewhat dodgy on the X-Ray scanners in airports. Trust me I know through experience :roll:

Had an insulated, electric roller fitted w/remote that looks like a light switch for c.£1200. Loads warmer, really quiet operation, no banging in the wind.

That presumably applies to the roller kind that you get on industrial units, rather than sectional style ones…

Certainly is Mr grips.
The OP is refering to roller doors which are noisy, etc. etc.
Overhead Sectional doors are a lot better.

My first thought was a roller door. The expense put me off – sounds like I was lucky :)