yes if you choose it over someone else’s cartridge bearing hubs. If you stick with the shimano range you need to get xt hubs and those spangly alu spider 6 bolt hubs to get lighter than slx cl and cl rotor for a given rotor size. Weight-for money if you shop around and buy your rotors off the classifieds from someone who doesn’t need them you will get excellent value for money. Hope are of course great, but the cost! If you like qr hubs and are sensible about servicing them its a no-brainer for me.
Splined will always have some slop in it,
7 or 8 centerlok hubs have gone through the wilson household, (currently 5 still on our bikes) and we got slop on 2 of them, which was sorted out with blue ‘pritt stick’ type threadlock and correct torque 🙂 on the lockring.
Perhaps we are lucky but our cl rotors have never needed tweaking whereas 6 bolt ones do from time to time. Can’t say i notice a difference in ‘bite’ changing between cl and hayes/avid/formula rotors on the same brakes/pad/bike.
The 20 and 15mm hubs should be supplied with the lockring which is ludicrously overpriced as a spare from Madison.
Most annoying thing for me would be needing extra tools as the cassette tool needs to be deeper/longer to clear the locknuts on the rear hub so usually means struggling with your old cassette tool before you realise you need a slightly different one. 😕
Oh and my experience of the 20mm front hubs has been rather poor, again you need a specific tool (28mm cone spanner) to service them and its a huge faff getting them to stay done up again.
So if i was buying normal qr hubs I would definitely still go CL over 6 bolt given the positive experience with the 6 we’ve had so far but I really wouldn’t touch the 15/20mm ones again.