Slow set polyurethane adhesive or an alternative for laminations?

One for the hive mind.

I have a structual project that would be made by laminating lots of layers of wood (making a beam essentially). Due to the structural nature I would like the adhesive to be creep free and waterproof. I’ve worked with polyurethane adhesive before but I worry the work time will be too short to lay out all the layers clamp up well etc before it goes off.

I know I could also try a phenol formaldehyde adhesive but i know little about its application.

The other alternative is to alter my glue up procedure and use something like plastic brad nails. Any thoughts on the preference of this? I am assuming I can get plastic Brad’s? I’ve seen plastic staples used for a similar purpose but I would be planning on using thicker laminations.

Any thoughts O’singletrack world?

Cascamite dude been using it to make wooden laminate mudguards and other laminated wood items for years but follow the instructions for mixing to the letter or you will fail!!!!!!!! Now working out and milling some stainless parts for a wheel dishing stick that’s gonna be beyond fancy.

Cascamite has a fair bit of work time.

And formaldehyde is fu(£ing evil stuff I used to use it working for an offshore environmental company and its very nasty stuff.

This stuff http://www.axminster.co.uk/cascamite-powdered-resin-wood-glue-ax21688

Titebond 3 is waterproof, ready formulated, 1-part, gives you about 1/4 to 1/2 an hour working time (and about 24hrs for full strength) and also doesn;t foam and swell and push the laminations apart like polyurethane. Cleans up with water to and doesn’t practically tattoo you like polyurethane if you get it on your hands.

If you’re later going to cut/sand/finish the piece Titebond sands pretty nicely too and takes paint etc well where its exposed on cut edges

Thank both they both look good. Might buy one of each and experiment, do some destructive tests etc. Never heard of Cascamite before.

I read the use sheet on the formaldehyde stuff and will agree it gave me reservation s about it!

I always use Cascamite for laminating as it sets pretty rigid.
Not too sure that the open time is particularly long though in comparison to other popular adhesives.
Get help when gluing up, one to dribble the adhesive on, the other to roller it out, put the laminations together asap to slow down the drying, always do a dry run to get your glue up polished.

We do masses of blockups in the CNC shop.Layers of wood are coated with Sicomin 5550 epoxy resin then vacuum bagged onto a table. PU is just too quick for us, though it is very good.

Another cascamite user here. My go to glue for laminating. It’s quick and easy to mix so I make up small batches and mix as I go along. Fine tile glue spreader to move it around.

Thanks guys some more interesting comments.

I always have a glue up plan but it never horse smoothly once everyone is all wet and slippery and I start to panic!

Haven’t done this sort of work myself but every time I’ve read about it or watched on YouTube I recall people extolling the virtues of two part epoxy when they need a longer open time – might be worth looking into.

I made a gluelam beam for the house 7mx200x95 just with PVA and screwing the layers of 33mmx95 together as I went along. The whole thing was clad so it didn’t have to look amazing.

I thought for a gluelam beM PVA as not up to regs due to creep?

Going to be outside so personally do not want PVA.

West system epoxy is my go to adhesive for stuff like this, although mainly boat stuff, so possibly overkill in your situation.

Cascamite would be easier and less messy.