Running power to shed (excellent plan content)

Planning on running 4mm cable to a shed 15m away spurred off an existing loop which is RCD protected (32a).

I’m going to use metal conduit to run the cable to the shed and it will go into a small consumer unit with a loop for the LED lights nd a loop for 3/4 sockets.

Shed will have a freezer in it, and apart from that it will be occasional power tool usage etc and maybe a printer.

Any fault in my immaculate and excellent plan?

Perhaps need to get it signed off if you plan on selling in near future.

Good idea to use metal conduit. A mouse chewed through the plastic one I used & then a cable, the RCD in the house kept blowing & sometimes the one in the garage where the cable for the shed went from. I temporarily now have no leccy in the shed till I replace the cable.

STW, yesterday:

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/running-power-to-a-shed

If you are using conduit, then use single cables rather than T+E. 4mm t+E down a 20mm conduit is a little tight around bends.
No need (in England) for any Council/Building Authority involvement if you are spurring off an existing circuit. There is a requirement to adhere to safe practice, as well as Part P of the building regs, but no notification involved.

Not many freezers are designed to work as intended in rooms with a chilly ambient room temperature, which your shed may experience in winter. Surprisingly, Beko are an exception.

Not many freezers are designed to work as intended in rooms with a chilly ambient room temperature, which your shed may experience in winter. Surprisingly, Beko are an exception.

Thanks for that bit of info. Initially it sounds counterintuitive, but appears to be spot on advice after a bit of research

Surprisingly, Beko are an exception.

Only because they catch fire and hence keep the shed nice and warm…..

We ebay’d a Beko fridge/freezer, had some herbert give us a right load of grief as it’s a model that had been subject to recall as a fire risk, but if you put the serial number in on their website as instructed, it said no problem. The ‘jockey wouldn’t do it, just kept saying we should warn people – eedjit, wouldn’t have sold it to him anyhow.

Isn’t the issue with chilly rooms limited to combined fridge freezers with a single thermostat? i.e thermostat is in fridge, never runs as garage is only 4 degrees, hence freezer defrosts.

So a fridge freezer with individual controls, or a dedicated freezer as the OP is intending to use, should be fine,.

Isn’t the issue with chilly rooms limited to combined fridge freezers with a single thermostat? i.e thermostat is in fridge, never runs as garage is only 4 degrees, hence freezer defrosts.

I don’t believe so, they probably can’t dump heat properly if the air temp is too low as their heat exchangers aren’t large enough to cope with low temp differentials. Or possibly they are prone to freezing up the heat exchanger…