Roller garage door – more secure than up and over?

Thinking of changing the old up n’over garage door and thought the roller door style were more secure. Now heard conflicting views… Any experiences here?

Only one experience, mate of mine had his n his missus bikes, 3 week old rocket max and a blingy hightower, nicked a couple of weeks ago.

They used a bottle Jack under roller door, popped the lock.

I’m of the opinion now that the best option if you keep bikes outside is a second barrier with a **** off loud deafening alarm when the first door is breached.

Though this ain’t much good if you’re not home, and the thiefs are gamey bastards, or the neighbours don’t give a shit.

No simple answer. A poor quality door of either style will be less secure than a good one. Its probably easier to add additional security to an up an over.

My new Horman roller door is far better in every respect than the up & over it replaced but that was 40 years old to be fair. With the old door you could lift the corners and crawl in if you wanted too (and were on the slim side!).
So basically yes it’s far more secure from casual attack but would it stop someone who is determined to get in…..I don’t know but it must buy some time at least.
It’s also rain and wind proof as its sealed all the way around so at last I can work for long periods in the garage and it’s not damp anymore.

Have a look at this video, we now have a version of the first door, we had one very much like the second which was busted easy, alarm and sirens didn’t stop them in the middle of the day

There’s good rollers and bad rollers. We have a supposedly secure-by-design one which has a mechanism to lock it so you can’t lift it easily. When after 15 years the motor packed up the people who sold it to us recommended replacing it with a Hormann roller which was “a much better product”, but when we looked at it in their showroom it was easy to lift it enough to get a jack or lever underneath. I contacted Hormann about its security who basically said it wasn’t intended to be secure, so we repaired the existing one. Either would be vulnerable to a scrote with a cordless angle grinder, although I guess the same could be said of most doors.

As others have said, you’ll need to research it. I have an up and over, but have shoot bolts to prevent it being forced and bent. But no door will stop someone ramming it with a van.

Multiple levels of security – so the expensive kit is ground anchored.

I don’t know if it makes any difference but mine is actually a “sectional” door and the following applies………

“When the garage door is closed, the anti-lift kit automatically engages in the operator boom’s stop, then locks immediately and is secured against forced opening.
This patented door latching functions purely mechanically and, in contrast to competitor operators, continues to secure the door even when the power fails.”

At the end of the day nothing is totally secure and you can only do your best – all I know is that it is far better than my previous door.

Cheers all. Hormann sounds pretty good.

Just watching those videos above and there isn’t a cover for the roller, hence it’s easy to just lift it up in the second one.

The one I have (nothing special, bought off Ebay), has a steel case for the door to disappear into, so you couldn’t force it up like that, it might rise a bit then it would jam in the case.

What I suggest to everyone who has a roller door is to try and lift it off yourself. Better for you to do it and if it lifts sort it than a thief to do it. It took the scrotes who did ours seconds to get in and out, all on CCTV, and they didn’t need wedges to do it.
The guy who fitted our new one lowered it onto a jack and we couldn’t lift it up with it. Every door can be busted but it’s how long it takes that will make them move on.

Hormann sectional can’t be prised upwards because of the geometry of the opening track. The only way in is to destroy the whole thing.

Actually that’s not true. The mechanical opening ones can be drilled then a hook inserted to operate the catch. The electric ones, you could drill two holes, shine a torch in one and use a really long pole to press the button. The buttons should be on the side of the opener unit really. I must fit a baffle.

What I suggest to everyone who has a roller door is to try and lift it off yourself.

I installed ours, lifting it up onto the stands, whilst stood on a lader was flippin hard work, I do recall dropping part of it on the wife’s head at one point. A lot of swearing was involved. I’m sure you could break in, but it would be an effort, which is the main deterrant; that and only owning 10 year old 26″ mountain bikes, which no one wants anymore 😉

The difference between you trying to break in and a thief is that the thief doesn’t care if he destroys it in the process. That opens up a lot more options!

my rollers inside the garage – and is bolted to the wall. – i lifted it there with my buddy lifting the other end… never been so happy for the nut runner on the impact driver to get the weight supported quickly as it was bloody heavy

Youd have to be inside the garage before you lifted it off…after you undid all the bolts from the inside.

If i was breaking into my garage i wouldn’t go through the door.

never been so happy for the nut runner on the impact driver to get the weight supported quickly as it was bloody heavy

That presumably was a roller and a load of fixings – in the video the guy lifts just the door slats. Plus the thief doesn’t have to hold it up for long. And (s)he can use the floor for leverage.

Without going into details you won’t be doing that on my non electrified door

My roller was/is inside the garage, the ease of how he lifted the door and how it broke the internal lock pin in the motor had to be seen to believe. I still have the CCTV footage. On the video above the guy is breaking in from the inside of the garage to show how its done, you wouldn’t see the roller from the outside.

Without going into details you won’t be doing that on my non electrified door

Out of interest, have you ever actually been burgled via forced entry?

Do you really need a big door ? My up n over door is dead and is screwed shut into the frame replaced old side window with steel fire exit door , one day/year will remove old upnover ,build block wall with ‘secure ‘window maybe with shutters or steel mesh at least can’t then leave door wide open with lights on,🙄well only to garden side

in the video the guy lifts just the door slats.

Only worked as there is a huge void for the RSD to rise into. Mine has a steel case it rolls into, so there’s only a few ” of space. If I remember I’ll try manually lifting it and see how much slack there is. I suspect not much….

Ours had a steel case, the case can hold a full door when rolled up. Once the stop pin on the motor was sheered there was nothing stopping it rolling up into the case far enough for them to get in and out

federal d613 locks.

Never liked motorised doors for this reason.