Reducing lever throw on SRAM code rsc levers

So, brakes does and feel ok but the lever throw is too much. I’ve adjusted the adjusters and can’t get the shorter throw.

I’m thinking I’ll reattach the bleed system and top up without screwing everything back off…that should mean the throw is reduced, shouldn’t it as it should essentially just add more fluid.

I’m expecting this to fail but posting in the hope someone agrees and the world keeps spinning!

Used to bleed various brakes every month or so as I was to go to for brake bleeding with all my mates but haven’t done it for a while and I’m well out of practice.

Haven’t RSC levers got bite point adjust as well as reach adjustment?

My Code R’s haven’t got bite point adjust but they bite fairly quickly into the lever travel. If you want to run the pads closer to the disc and the bite point adjust doesn’t do that then you can take the wheel out and pump the lever to move the pads closer to where the disc would be. Just don’t do it too much or you’ll have pads that rub / disc won’t fit back in.

If you bleed them as SRAM describe them the contact point adjustment can only be used to move the bite point nearer the bar. I’ve seen various people recommended bleeding them with the contact adjustment dial set half way so that you can then use it to adjust the contact point in or out. That said, advancing the pistons will also work and then you can use the contact point adjustment to fine tune.

A nicely set up set of RSCs with the contact point would right the way in has insufficient throw for most people’s taste; it’s unlikely you’d want less as the brakes will be super draggy with the slightest wet/mud – so I would start with whether the brakes are working right at the moment. Have you:

Got a thick enough rotor? Shimano’s are thinner than SRAM’s for example.
Are all 4 pistons advancing at the the same rate? This will effect lever feel a lot.
Is the system free of air? Factory bleeds aren’t always that reliable.

A nicely set up set of RSCs with the contact point would right the way in has insufficient throw for most people’s taste

I hate they way they label the levers. To avoid confusion, when you say “right the way in” I think you mean pistons out. The “Contact In” arrow on the lever points in the opposite direction. I think of it as “Contact” adjustment, arrow points to moving the pistons “In”.

What I described in my post are hacks to get things working, because sometimes pistons stick and the bleed isn’t perfect and you just want to ride your bike 🙂

I may have just spotted my issue…when I normally bleed them it appears that I adjust the contact pad all the way out (opposite way to the arrow), so suspect I’ve been bleeding them full adjusted so there is no more tweak to reduce throw!

I think I’ll do another bleed but with the contact adjustment all the way in (turned fully the way the arrow is pointing). Currently when I turn the dial all the way ‘out’ (away from arrow) the lever feels almost spongy and has loads of throw. When it is dialled in it firms up and reduces the throw but not by much…so I’ll bleed it with the contact all the way in and see if that helps.

I’m saying that as after I bleed, the contact adjuster reduces the throw to lever (and firms lever up), so if I start all way in, it might mean a tweak to increase the throw slightly.

My hope then is that there is minimal lever pull (almost none) and as I screw the contact dial out the lever throw increases and feel remains the same – I hate a squidgy lever but also don’t want a wooden on-off feel either).

All 4 pistons moving equally and the rotor appears centred in between both sides. Pads hit rotor at same time. Rotors appear thick enough and are SRAM, but I’ll measure them. I’ve also done the bit of locking the syringe hose and pulling plunger to get ride of the air in the syringe, so I’m fairly sure I’m not adding any new air in to the system.

I’m clearly well out of practice as I never had this issue with my Hopes with the Tech 3 levers, they were a breeze to bleed and adjust – screw everything out, connect syringe to caliper and push plunger…fluid escapes from reservoir and once syringe is almost empty, close the system. Tweak the dials on the levers a couple.of wee turns and off you go!

Rebled with adjuster screwed all the way in…brakes feel great now, less through, more solid feel but with some modulation.

Quick happy with this now!

Yes, from memory Sram tell you to bleed them as you were before, which makes no sense. Treating the arrow like it’s an old Juicy 7 lever and turning the dead point adjuster in the direction of the arrow to bleed, and them firm up by backing it off again results in much better lever feel.

Edit: Yes, this results in a system with loads of lever throw, and the system in a slight vacuum state even with new pads as the pistons have to advance once the bleed has completed rather than setting the fluid level with the pads installed. Very odd. I’ve bled hundreds of current Sram brakes and soon learned to ignore their process.