Race Face Next SL crank arm play on drive side ?

Friend of mine has a Pivot Switch Blade with a Super Boost + set up, so the crankset is a Race Face Next SL with an interchangeable spindle. He asked me to look at it because it had some play in it. The play was from both sides and it simply needed the pre-load ring tightening on the non-drive side for most of the play, but there is still play in the crank arm on the drive side but I haven’t time to remove the crank set yet.
Is this likely to be just a case of removing the spindle and tightening up the lock ring behind the chainring or is it more likely a problem that shouldn’t happen ?
I’ve had a similar problem on a Sram crankset which doesn’t have a removeable spindle and ended up with a whole new crankset.

Thanks in advance.

Race Face carbon cranks have a habit of de-bonding between the Ali and carbon materials axel end and pedal insert. I’d say you’d need to remove the cranks completely and fully inspect.

Yeah, those are about to fail, as all RaceFAce carbon cranks do.

Get them warrantied, sell them, and buy different cranks, they’re a badly made and dangerous product.

Both the above apply to play between pedals and the crank arm. If this is not what you have then the preload should remove play from both sides. It only has so much adjustment though and you also need the shims on the axle to take most of the space. Another possibility is that one side is not properly tightened onto the axle (both arms can be removed from the axle). If this is the case there is the possibility they have fecked the splines.

The lock ring behind the chainring holds the chain ring onto the drive side crank.

Are you sure the play is not in the BB bearings.

The play is on the drive side crank arm and definitely isn’t in the BB bearings. Looking at the video it can’t be the lock ring either because that’s straight and the movement is only in the arm. As its an interchangeable spindle it could be the that the arm has come loose from the spindle. I’ll take it all apart and check everything over for him and make sure its all as tightened up on the spindle before reinstalling with the pre-load done correctly etc.

This. Took me two bloody replacements of my NEXT R to just buy alloy and forget about issues.

Yeah, those are about to fail, as all RaceFAce carbon cranks do.

Get them warrantied, sell them, and buy different cranks, they’re a badly made and dangerous product.

Take the crank off, stick the bb axle in a vice, give it a wobble.

Raceface carbon cranks are notorious for falling apart.

Yep. At this point STW must have enough crank arms left over to make up some complete sets?

Hey, mine are still fine after about 6 years of riding!

Finding a decent long lasting BSA 30mm bottom bracket, however , is the bigger issue in my experience, but I appear to be a special case with regard to these cranks

I’d say knackered as well, they are very well known for it. I went through 5 sets (SLs & Rs) in 3 years before getting a set of Turbines as warranty the last time they went. They’re still going strong 3 years later.

Finding a decent long lasting BSA 30mm bottom bracket, however

Isn’t ever going to be easy. They’re all pants because they’re trying to fit a 30mm BB on a space that’s not designed for it, largely because we all get shirty about new standards and want bsa.

So, took it apart at the weekend and yes, they’re fecked ! The threaded insert inside the drive side crank arm is moving around which is causing the crank arm to rock even when its tightened up with the chainring.

This is on a Superboost+ groupset so it has a custom interchangeable spindle. Is there an alternative to the Race Face cranks or does he have to buy the same again ?

Well at least you found the issue. I’ve put mine on the gravel bike so they get less abuse – but I’m still waiting for the day when im miles from home and start to feel play….

Unless your mate specifically wants a light carbon crank I’d buy some raceface cinch alloy arms and re use the chainring/BB.

Turbine or atlas crank arms will fit the axle. If it has SL’s then Turbine is a closer match. The current ring will also fit.

@monkeyboyjc I wouldn’t worry, I did a fair few rocky Peak District rides with loose pedal inserts with no issues 🙂

Yep. At this point STW must have enough crank arms left over to make up some complete sets?

I’d load them into a modified cannon and fire them at raceface, that product should have never been let out into the wild

TheGingerOne
Full Member
Hey, mine are still fine after about 6 years of riding!

Finding a decent long lasting BSA 30mm bottom bracket, however

@TheGingerOne – Chris King Threadfit 30. I’ve been using one for almost 2 years and haven’t had a problem nor seen anyone with a bad word to say. Well, except with respect to the initial outlay.

Or wheelsmfg. Fraction or the price and i’ve had similar experience to daffy. 2+ years & Burnley winters and still spinning.

I just replaced the bearings only in the OEM RF Cinch BB, put in something decent like Enduro Bearings and the rest of it is fine. For balance my Next carbon cranks are still fine after 4 years. I am careful to not overtighten the pedals and use a torque wrench for the 40Nm crank attachment.