Paint stripper favourite?

Want to strip a Salsa frame and wondering what the hive mind like paint stripper wise currently?
Thanks

I just use whatever. The important bit on any paintstripper when doing frames is to apply it liberally, then to wrap it in cling film, as one of the issues they have is drying out. Sealed in it does the job considerably better.

Another thing is not to try to coat the entire bike in the one go, but instead work on one tube at a time. Apply, wrap, then onto the next tube.

Get blasted.

Not expensive, actually works, no mess.

You don’t get off your tits though so its not alll good.

Thanks both.

@joshvegas doesn’t blasting result in a rough surface finish? I’m looking for a smooth bare metal hence why I thought paint stripper. Cheers

If you can find a blaster then talk to them. There’s loads of options and if they know their stuff they will be able to set up accordingly.

Industrially people use pretty heavy materials but you can use lighter materials for delicate jobs and drop the pressure.

I assume this is an aluminium frame? It will still corrode. It might not look that good just as bare metal. It will still tarnish. Don’t people normally get it lacquered?

Otherwise paint stripper is a commodity. I’d just buy own brand from a big DIY shed.

Starchem Synstryp is the only one with the good/bad stuff in it but it is difficult to get hold of now. I’d get it blasted or dipped if I did it again, even with Synstryp it was a PITA

I buy the industrial stuff from an auto paint shop… you essentially have to sign a waiver to say you are a professional, but i’ve never seen anything like it, strips everything, powdercoat from car wheels etc, requires ventilation and protective clothing

Thanks all, steel frame so fairly solid. Hairline crack that needs welding so hoping that blasting won’t make it any worse.

Will check out local skills. Cheers

Having messed with paint strippers in the past I’m firmly in the blasting camp. Find someone local who can do small parts and doesn’t spend all day nuking tractor chassis or something.

You can’t even buy good paint stripper in a normal shop becasue the main ingredient was banned in 2010. NItro-mors and similar are useless now. You can get Starchem at trade places but it’s still a grim job to do properly.

I wouldn’t worry about blasting making a crack any worse. Any crack will need to be prepped anyway probably by grinding it down.

Look for stuff on eBay with methylene chloride / dichloromethane / MeCL2 – that’s the active ingredient that nitromors no longer has. It’s nasty stuff though so follow and MSDS to the letter.

Thanks all. Found a local chap who will chemically dip for £20-30 so will get it done there.

While we’re on the subject, where are you?

If anyone can recommend someone in Sheffield I might get my cruiser done.

I have used a local frame builder before but they closed down.

Thanks all. Found a local chap who will chemically dip for £20-30 so will get it done there

That’s the best option.

Although the easier option is to just attack it with wet and dry and sand through any chips and scratches then give it an undercoat which will show up anything you’ve missed. Keep repeating the undercoat/sanding until it looks good.  Sanding all the paint off is only worth it if it’s flaking off or you’re worried the new paint won’t be compatible with it.

@sharkattack

Im based just south of Birmingham but my local shot blaster has a link with a place in West Bromwich so I’ll let him send it them