Hi, B.A.nanas bro in law here.
We found using Google maps instructions and simply following the road numbers/towns was easy enough to get round Paris. Just don’t expect an M25 style ring road, it involves plenty of slip roads.
We stopped in Limoges first (don’t miss the martyred village at Oradour sur Glane) at the Ibis.
Then we camped just south of Castlenorde on route to see the castle at Carcasonne (if you get to the campsite, which might be called Le Chat? It’s on your left, early enough then the campsite owner will deliver home made cassoulet to your tent! We were too late 🙁 )
This might be a detour for you as we then camped in Ax les Thermes for a few days before heading to Luchon.
We loved Luchon, it feels like a mountain biking version of Après Ski at the end of a day. Sipping Kronobourg Blonde after a days lift assisted riding is a little slice of heaven.
We camped at the campsite on the left ad you head out of town towards Superbagnerre. Nice people, I enjoyed my bizarre conversations with the old bloke that runs it. He don’t do English and I’m defo pigeon French!
The lift accessed stuff is all marked out. Don’t avoid the blue after the park bit, it’s sweet. Do try the black (K bourre) it’s a lesson in switchbacks but has one or two corners that I will never ever be able to ride 🙁
The routes that head over to the far right as you look at the mountain are really good fun.
As for the local XC stuff, i regret not hooking up with AQR. I exchanged a few emails with them and they were really accomodating but with a wife and dog to please it just didn’t work out. You will not find the good stuff without them.
And second the walk up to Lac D’oo. Do yourself a favour and have duck confit and French fries at the bar/ restaurant near the car park. If it wasnt for the size of the hills you could think you were in Yorkshire!!