New Hope Pro 5 Hubs!

Weights?

There’s probably a lot of variation – CL/6bolt/Ebike/bike/XD/MS/HG/142/148/157…It’s a nightmare for manufacturers.

“weights”

Enough, probably.

than the Pro 4’s but it would be good to get confirmation, I may be wrong

My thoughts too, it would be nice if they could compete with dtswiss

The rear hub is getting all the attention and spotlight, what about the front, mind you at £95 you’re better off picking a discounted £60 pro4, can’t see much to improve on, wonder if the torque caps will be the same on the pro5.

I’ve never had an issue with pro 2’s, pro 2 evo or pro 4’s.

All my mtbs and gravel bike have pro 4’s, some with boost, some with boost adapters.

The good news about pro 5’s coming out is that pro 4’s should be cheaper, both new and 2nd hand. They might even be slightly lighter.

Unless new standards come out that force me to change, I think I’ll carry on with the pro 4’s for now.

@ratherbeintobago

Anyone know what axle lengths? Will there be 142 or just Boost?

Hope confirmed standard lengths will still be supported.

@noltae

Will they make the SS/Trials in a Pro 5 ?

They will (I suspect you know that already or else someone else asked the exact same question on Facebook)

Unless new standards come out that force me to change, I think I’ll carry on with the pro 4’s XC and Bulb for now.

😉🤣

I’d like to see more material around the disc mount. Mine started to crack there, 2 of the mounts with cracks in the threaded areas. Took a few years to appear and they’ve been ok like that a few more .. but it’s a weak point.

I get through axle bearings yearly on average but it’s a SS that does decent miles. Freehub bearings lasted 5+ years.

That freehub sound is awful.

Can’t have noisy hubs myself but Hopes are fine when greased up. I pack the pawls with Finish Line grease and they’re quiet.

A quieter than normal Hope hub was usually a sign that the pawl springs had broken. Strangely my ss Pro2 has recently gone fairly quiet but all seems OK inside. I do prefer the having some Hope noise – my silent work bike Alfine is awful for creeping up on people.

Hoping they are still doing the axle most important to me – solid 135mm with M10 bolts 🙂

Talking of solid axles, I wonder if the increased diameter in the freehub area would be enough to solve the fatbike axle bending and associated pawl destruction? Maybe they need to give our forum friend a test sample?

Edit: Can’t be arsed to fix this – why does the stupid forum not link to the actual forum topic but instead links to a different thread that was within the original one???

Custom frame for a big heavy guy – groupthink

noeffsgiven
Free Member

The rear hub is getting all the attention and spotlight, what about the front,

Fronts are boring basically, just a tube with 2 bearings and another tube in it, there’s not really any “15% more” or similar you can write about. Weight, standards and whether the end caps fall off or not are pretty much it.

Yeah I wasn’t looking for anything in depth about the front hub, but they could’ve dedicated 10 seconds to tell us the differences though, seems like a bigger left flange on standard 6 bolt version, probably same bearings and endcaps as pro4.

Can anyone recommend a wheel builder in the South East / South West?

I’ve got some Carbon rims that I’d like to get built onto some Pro 5’s but none of my local bike shops do wheel building.

Strada or Sharp Precision Wheels?

If Bristol counts as the South West then Ryan Builds Wheels.

Saw the news about 5 minutes after finally biting the bullet and ordering some DT 370 based wheels (with the ratchet upgrade). A bit gutted as I like hope stuff usually.

Then saw the price. I guess a price jump was inevitable at some point, pro4’s were starting to look almost cheap with everything else rocketing up around them. Makes the DT’s look like a bit of a bargain.

Is anyone selling any cheap Pro 4’s yet? I fancy some wheels and they don’t need to be latest and greatest.

I’ve seen some one-off wheels, but not hubs. What are you after? Note that Pro5 are higher priced so less impetus to reduce perfectly good Pro4 stock.

I’ve a new rear wheel(142-now 148 boost kit) pro4 straight pull. But its on the older enduro rim, so maybe suitable for up to 2.4″ 32h, black.

Bought for the ebike but i fancy the pro5 on the rear, as they are doing a specific ebike model. maybe laced to the rims i already have.

Winstanleys and twelve 50 bikes have reduced pro4 prices, some options pre order though, more could follow though if there’s stock knocking about.

Last time I ordered 2 rims and 2 Hope hubs from Winstanleys they arrived in 4 separate packages over a period of 5 weeks. I ended up collecting the finished wheels from the builder the morning we were driving to Morzine.

Heh, I ordered some hope hoops with flows from Winstanleys, they kept saying they’d arrive in a week even after Hope were saying they weren’t going to make any more. Any day now, I’m sure.

The good news about pro 5’s coming out is that pro 4’s should be cheaper, both new and 2nd hand.

Im having new wheels built and was just going to buy a pro 5 rear, and supply a new pro 4 F and the rims
Had a look on CRC out of interest and the price is £75 for a pro4 front,whereas a new pro 5 is £95, so probably be better just getting a pro 5 as its not a great deal more.

The pro 4 front is 190grms approx, i cant see the pro 5 weighing anything other than about the same. Not enough to write home about anyway.

I’m resurrecting this thread because I could do with some help please.

I’ve got a Shimano Pro 5 hub and I’ve just bought the compatible steel freehub for touring/commuting/general extra reliability.

However, I’m damned if I can get my Shimano R8000 11 speed road cassette to fit. The freehub isn’t long enough – the 11t sprocket only gets a fraction of a mm engagement on the splines, and I can only get one turn on the lockring if I try and tighten it up.

I’ve not mistakenly got a spacer behind the cassette, and I have correctly got the spacer on the axle inboard of the freehub.

It’s as if the new green seal and the black ring with the “Hope Pro 5 56POE” writing on is taking up the necessary length on the freehub splines.

Any ideas what I’m doing wrong?

Do you have the seal compression ring fully located? That black ring is a friction fit. Will it slide down any further?

<goes to garage to find out>

Shimano 11 speed road cassettes are wider than mtb cassettes. You can get a R8000 equivalent cassette in mtb width:

https://bike.shimano.com/products/components/pdp.P-CS-HG800-11.html

@hedgehopper, cheers – I do know that, but I’ve not read anything to say the Hope Pro 5 steel freehub isn’t suitable for 11spd road cassettes, and I’ve already just got a new cassette so I’m not buying another.

@Onzadog, I’ve just checked the seal is seated properly, I think it is. Here’s a photo side on with the lockring cranked down, and one of the top cog protruding past the freehub, after the lockring has been tightened and then removed. It’s still not looking like it’s down far enough (e.g. the one on my turbo is almost flush with the end of the freehub). Any ideas?

Hmm got me thinking now. If a Shimano road width fits on the free hub then you would need to use a spacer for a Shimano MTB one. Quickest way for me to check would be to go and have a try in the garage. Will update later.

If you’ve got the same hubs and you don’t mind the faffage, that’s tremendously kind of you, thanks 🙂 .

There’s a high chance it’s user error on my part somehow, but I can’t figure out what I’m missing!

Partial success. I can fit an 11 speed Shimano road cassette on a new Pro 5 stainless steel freehub but I can’t find my tool to tighten it down so can only get a hand tight turn or two. What I would say on looking at your photo is that I don’t think you should be able to see any green in the seal like you can in the photo. I certainly can’t see any green on mine so I think Onzadog has it in that it should go in a bit further. Hope this helps, if I manage to find the tool I’ll update again but I’m think getting the freehub on further will fix it hopefully.

If a Shimano road width fits on the free hub then you would need to use a spacer for a Shimano MTB one.

I’ve just fitted an 11spd XT M8000 cassette to a new pro 5 hub yesterday with a single 2mm spacer behind the cassette, 3mm was too big and the lockring wouldn’t engage properly. It is an alloy freehub tho and I definitely can’t see any of the green seal behind the cassette

Cheers pothead that helps, that makes sense as the road cassettes is 1.85mm wider (I think) so should fit without the spacer. So I’m definitely going with freehub assembly isn’t fully on as you can see the green still. I’m sure there’s a video on the Hope website. I remember being annoyed that my old Pro2 tool didn’t work so had to get a new one but there are other methods I believe.

https://www.hopetech.com/how-to-videos/#

Thanks so much @Hedgehopper, it’s really kind of you to make time to look, and @pothead too. I’ve given up for the evening now and I’m on the turbo ready to be late for Sunday dinner! I’ll try and seat the seal  more fully tomorrow and update 🙂 .

Looking directly down on the hub like that, you shouldn’t be able to see the green seal. At least, I can’t on the MS version I’m looking at in my hand. Try removing and refitting the freehub body, then locate the seal, then add the seal cover

The seals are directional – make sure its on the right way round as well. It will stick out more one way round.

If this is at all helpful great, if not carry on as usual 🙂

I’ve just dipped my toe in the Pro5 waters and picked up a wheel set that I specced (from Hope) with a steel free hub.

I can confirm that an 11 speed MTB cassette fits fine with the (provided) spacer fitted and fits an 11 speed road (105) cassette without the (provided) spacer fitted.

I did note that the wheel came with a note to say that to tighten the cassette lock ring the end cap should be removed first.

I’ve put on the green seal upside down before which adds space. Have you done that?

I’m at work so won’t have chance to sort this til the weekend, but I think me putting the green seal on the wrong way round is the likely culprit (I hope it is; nice and easy to resolve if so).

I did say it was probably user error 😀 !