Mini R53 Re-Map

So recently purchased a 2006 Mini Cooper S which I believe has the R53 engine.
I’m thinking of doing a remap to give it a handful of extra horsepower and torque…..I know nothing at all about cars so I’ve no idea if this is a good idea or bad.

The local tuning place thik they can add on an additional 32bhp. I’m not a driving god by any means, but I do like fun cars. This isn’t my main car, even though since buying it it’s the first car I jump in.

Any downsides to doing this? The cost of the remap is £240, I don’t mind paying extra, maybe to a total of £600 should I need to buy a new clutch or something else?? Be good to get the thoughts of much more experienced folk than me.

It’s a damn fun car. My other car is a large Merc, uber comfortable and does shift as well, just not as much fun as the mini.

Can’t comment on a remap.
What about changing the pulley ratio on the supercharger too? Should eek out a few more ponies.

Hi Dirk, I have no idea about the change you mentioned, means nothing to me. But will ask the tuners about it. I’m presuming they do other tweets as well.

R53 is the vehicle code the engine is a Tritec.
On a standard engine a remap is a waste of time and money, if a tuner is telling you they can add 32bhp without mods go somewhere else.
First mods are typically air filter, exhaust. You can then start with reduced supercharger pulley if you go to something like a 17% reduction you would be then looking at better intercooler, cooler plugs and then maybe a remap will improve it some but not really needed until you start getting into bigger injectors, big valve heads and cams.
Hope you have deep pockets.
I’ve kept mine simple with just exhaust and air filter mods and uprated brakes.

Best thing I did for mine (R54 N18) was nice tyres! Corners and roundabouts are where it shines.

I’ve not spoken to the tuner, just from online. Put my reg plate in and the details came back.
It’s an ECU remap. Came up with the 32bhp and in crease of torque by 60.

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Any suggestion on the exhaust modification?

As Dirk says, ‘standard’ Stage 1 tune for an R53 is a reasonably simple pulley swap.
Lohen (or 1320) were the go-to’s for this type of swap/tune.

https://www.lohen.co.uk/lohen-cooper-s-starter-pack
https://www.1320.co.uk/1320-bmw-mini-cooper-s-r53-stage-one-tuning-package

Really silly question but is your local tuning place confusing the supercharged R53 for the later turbocharged versions?

On the clutch front – the clutch on my unmodified ’53 plate Cooper S has just started to slip after 120000 miles (we’ve had it since new). The engines and clutches are pretty robust (there can be a few issues with the ancillaries…).

EDIT – I type slowly! Definitely worth ringing the tuner and confirming their website!

Get on the R53 owners club on facebook so much info and advice on there

Thanks guys. The 1320 website is useful.
The 1.2 package seems affordable, £450. Includes the following:-
KMT Pulley of your choice – 11%, 13.20%, 15%, 16% or 17%
Supercharger Belt
NGK Plugs
Health Check
Dyno Before and After

With regards to the pulley, what does the % mean?

@windyg, I don’t have Facebook. Have no idea how to get to see the groups.

Hi, it would be worth calling Hybrid Tune. They complete all things performance upgrade and run a mini race team including performance partner to Mini Challemge UK

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The % is the size of the reduction from the standard pulley.

I’ve had 3 tuned cars. 1 full, head, crank work, inlet, exhaust, brakes suspension etc which was ace. A second NA petrol with cat back exhaust and a mild remap giving 5HP or so across the rev range which was subtly better. Then a third which was remapped. It was fast in a straight line but shite because the extra power overwhelmed the suspension making it feel wobbly like a boat and the brakes were not as good. I had this removed and then later upgraded the dampers and brake pads which made the car better but a firmer ride.

My advice get some better brake pads and updated dampers keeping the standard springs. This will make the car more fun and not interfere with how the experts set it up in the first place – more emphasising the good bits.

What else does that pulley drive? Changing then can make others areas more marginal for reliability, Im not sure on the mini.

the pulley mod is a smaller pulley on the nose of the supercharger, which means it spins faster, creating more pressure.

Smaller pullies on supercharged cars deliver the best bang for buck. The cost comes in upgrading the ancillaries!

I came very close to buying a R53 (looked at XKR’s, a supercharged VTEC and mercs) as the spiritual successor to the Polo G40 I used to own. It wasn’t the fastest (stage 4 tuned) but the most fun and characterful car I’ve ever owned, without looking or sounding like a boy racer fart can special. I got offers to buy it all the time and weirdly people used to stop me and the missus (she didn’t have a clue) to ask about it!

Peeps were chucking Eaton chargers in them way back when the scroll G-Laders reached there limits or let go.

Rare beasts supercharged cars but so nice to drive, everyone one should own/try one!

Join a MINI Forum….

Some right cowboys out there calling themselves remappers.

I’d not go on the r53 forum and ask about servicing some Pikes!

Duncan, I’ve been looking at quite a few and I’m being bamboozled by the tech speak.
I’ve had a car remapped in the past and that went well. But that was a completely different type of car (Porsche 996).
I’ll be giving 1320 a call on Wednesday to book in for the Stage 1.2 upgrade. Then new tyres and then exhaust….I can see this getting expensive considering it’s just supposed to be my station car.

Another quick question. It’s got red paint, in some places the clear coat is flaking, probably two biggish sections. Any thoughts on whether this is fixable or is it only a repaint? I’m not too fussed about this, if there’s a fairly cheap fix I might do it, but defo not paying for a respray.

1320 have a decent rep so it’s good place for you rather than some random online company.
Chilli red Minis are well known for lacquer peel, you can try and carefully fine sand it back and re clear coat it but not easy to make it look good.
I have managed to strip a whole panel clean using a pressure washer and then applied clear coat but most times it’s a respray.

I’d say, with my limited knowledge, that that’ll need a re-spray.

The absolute best mod I made on my R53 – many moons ago now – was to ditch the run-flats. Light and day in terms of ride and grip – but ride most importantly.

Enjoy.

My R53 has a

17% reduced supercharger pulley, cold air feed air box (the Oranje ‘stealth’ one), larger intercooler and different spark plugs to cope with the higher temps.
There’s some interesting stuff on one of the American forums about exhaust back pressure with std and the various aftermarket exhausts, I’m on a stock exhaust as it’s far quieter for normal driving.

I took it to a local guy for a remap and he told me himself that the R53 doesn’t really give large gains through ecu tuning. It was more a case of tweaking the fuelling etc to work best with the alterations I’d made. To get much more power than I’m getting now would mean bigger injectors, different cam etc but the 204hp I’m getting is plenty.
I’m on non-run flat tyres which made a massive difference to the ride quality.

Listening to it on the dyno was fun-the supercharger whine was immense!

Looks good that @mattbee !! I’m intrigued as after tuning the acceleration is slower ? Maybe struggling to get power down ?

That’s not on the road acceleration time. I think it’s the time taken for the power run. The modified tune spins an extra 1000rpm so unsurprisingly takes longer.

Yeah, the figures are for the dyno run.
On the road it’s definitely a lot quicker acceleration wise.
Mine also has a later gearbox fitted (with the LSD). This has shorter gearing than the early ‘boxes.

Phew all good then 🙂

On a standard engine a remap is a waste of time and money, if a tuner is telling you they can add 32bhp without mods go somewhere else.

Surely depends on the engine? The 1.0 three cylinder EcoBoost motor that Ford use in a whole bunch of cars is rated for output as 95bhp, 125bhp and 140bhp, and AFAIK, the difference is entirely down to what mapping Ford decide on as regards the spec of the car. Mine is the middle one, so a remap should take it up to 140 quite easily, with a corresponding boost in torque. I’ve been told that it could go as high as 156, but the turbo can’t go higher than 170. There’s a kit with a new billet-machined turbo, cold-air feed and improved exhaust system that can take it to just over 200, but for the cost involved it would probably be easier to fit the 1.5 three-cylinder EcoBoost from a wrecker and uprate brakes, etc.

None of that applys with a supercharger though which is what your part quote was refering to -what with specifically stating the tritec engine

Yeah of course it depends on the engine, there are plenty that you can gain more from with a remap a R53 Tritec isn’t one of them and this was the only relevant engine in this post.
If it was a standard Cooper you could though.

If it is a 2006 it could be either a (late) R53 which is the supercharged TriTec engine or early R56 which is the turbo Peugeot (N14?). Simple way to confirm is open the bonnet; if the headlamps are attached to the bonnet, its a R53, if the headlamps remain static and the bonnet lifts away from them, it a R56.

As others have said, the R53 is more easily improved by fitting a smaller supercharger pulley, then upgrading the intercooler and spark plugs. Being a late model it would have the improved supercharger and better gearbox with LSD.

If its a R56, before doing anything, get the timing chain checked and get it decoked as these engines are notorious for issues. If all well, then ECU modification by a reputable tuner, ideally on a rolling road.

I used to love my R53 Mini. The supercharger whine was great and it felt much better than the turbo’d ones that came after.

Here’s a bit of fun footage of 90’s supercharged power vs 2000’s supercharged power.

Bare in mind the Polo is 1.3L and uses a variation of a centrifugal charger as opposed to Mini’s 1.6L and a twin screw Eaton charger!

Knockhill what a track!

Good video. Looked a bit of a beast to handle that car, especially compared to the mini in front of it.
The drivers car seemed the quickest in a straight line but he was losing time in every corner.
Made a great sound though.

Spot on. The Polo chassis was mass produced narrow unibody shite (needed top and bottom strut braces for any kind of racing) and the standard brakes are horrifically bad. People used to describe mine as broken, they were/are dangerous in a car that light, easily tuned and fast!

Also the Polo might be stripped out and tuned to it’s limits. Could have a larger charger G60, Eaton or turbo conversion!