Leonardi General Lee Shimano adaptor availability

A google search only throws these up on eBay in the states at a ludicrous price. Anybody know when they’re on sale in Europe? Bike discount only have the SRAM versions

Thanks

I’ve just got one off eBay, seller name mop18795, who seems to be in Portugal. It turned up in about 4 days.

Found him earlier but he’s pretty pricey, the auction on the latest one is up to nearly USD200 already!

Hmm, he was doing them as buy it now last week. Anyway, you’ll not find them for less I don’t think, it’s a dear thing.

Leonardi only sell their products in Italy, so if you are looking to buy one, you need to find a shop like Bagnoli Bike in Castiglione della Pescaia who are willing to ship internationally

Off the review – tried them? Is it not only SRAM?

Will try them, thanks Nick. Although not sure the above is strictly true; bike discount sell the SRAM ones and they ain’t Italiano!

In stock at Bagnoli bike, many thanks all

Wait a month until you know what X01 will cost, as that’s a far better solution potentially for similar cost?

Stunned at folk forking out so much for half a cassette!

XO1 will still need a new cassette body if you are converting from 10 speed, which, depending on your current wheelset will either add a chunk of cost or make it totally prohibitive. Also, I’m a lot less convinced by SRAMs implementation of the clutch mech, my X9 one lost a lot of it’s clutch effect over 6 months riding. I’m going to try the General Lee cassette with XTR/XT shifter for a bit and see how that works out.

Going XX1 or XO1 is not viable. I have all Shimano stuff at the minute so would need new freehub body, cassette, chain, mech and shifter. Not worth the hassle plus I really like XTR and have an inherent distrust of a lot of SRAM stuff from previous bad experiences. I’m going to see how i go with a 32 front and 11-36 at the back to start with.

Cheers all

So what was the problem with triple chainsets again? 😆

Can’t see why people would want to spend a load of money to have poorer shifting, massive jumps between sprockets and voided warranties when the solution has existed for decades. 😕

sbob – Member

So what was the problem with triple chainsets again?

Ground clearance, weight, and jagged holes in your legs?

sbob – Member

So what was the problem with triple chainsets again?

1×10 setups are better for ground clearance, weight, simplicity, silence, less clutter. No carrying around a load of gears you barely use.

My 1×10 setup has been faultless, everywhere in this country and the Alps.

What poor shifting?

Embrace change, might widen your world. 😉

I simply cant get my head around the general lee route – a 36T at the back is plenty! If not, just walk, its likely to be as quick!

Can’t imagine you’d save much weight, once you’ve added those clunky Italian sprockets (which is where the poorer shifting comes from) and the chain device you now need.
More cogs at the back and thinner chains just seems to mean components don’t last as long.
My 3×9 setup has been faultless since 2000, with lovely evenly spaced jumps between sprockets.
Never had a problem with ground clearance myself, but I appreciate other people might (I’ve always ridden HTs).
Front mechs are far simpler than rears.

With regard to change, the only actual improvement made in changing gear I’ve witnessed with current systems compared to my old gear is that when changing to a smaller sprocket or chainring, the shifter now moves when you pull the trigger rather than release it.

I simply cant get my head around the general lee route – a 36T at the back is plenty! If not, just walk, its likely to be as quick!

Not everywhere it’s not, and not for every rider. I’m not super fit but I’ve been riding for 20 yrs plus, I’m very keen and I’m in reasonable shape and for me, where I ride, even the 32 to 42 first gear that the General Lee will give will be at the limit of what I’d consider acceptable. Sure, I’ve had bikes with a higher 1st gear than that in the past, but the lower gears are better, they have improved my enjoyment of my riding, so why do without them?
Plus, and this is the big thing, it’s nice to have a bigger range, so why not? If 36t was enough SRAM wouldn’t have bothered with, and wouldn’t be selling XX1 and XO1.
Slow as it seems, even plugging away in a 22t front to 36t rear is faster than pushing. If you are fit enough to carry your bike and run then that argument stacks up but most folk aren’t quite at that level.

If going 1×10, do you still need/want a bash guard or is it ok to smack the chain off rocks?

Can’t imagine you’d save much weight, once you’ve added those clunky Italian sprockets (which is where the poorer shifting comes from) and the chain device you now need.

Well, I was already running a chain device on my 2×9 and 2×10 set-ups as the chain won’t stay on with 3x and no device for me, so that’s no change, and in fact I’m going to try one of the alternating thickness chainrings with the 1x set-ups, so hopefully I’ll not need a device, or if I do, it’ll be a lighter one than the 2x device I was using. Also, I’ll lose the weight of a front mech, front shifter, cabling and a bash guard.
On the weight of the General Lee sprockets, I’m converting an XT 11-36 10-speed cassette, so I’ll be replacing the 3 large sprockets, the ones on the aluminium spider. I weighed them at 186g for those three. I weighed the General Lee replacements at 164g, so that’ll actually be a little lighter.

If going 1×10, do you still need/want a bash guard or is it ok to smack the chain off rocks?

Usually o.k without as it’s higher up and the chain protects the teeth of the chainring which is the usual vulnerable spot.

sbob – Member

Can’t imagine you’d save much weight, once you’ve added those clunky Italian sprockets (which is where the poorer shifting comes from) and the chain device you now need.
More cogs at the back and thinner chains just seems to mean components don’t last as long.
My 3×9 setup has been faultless since 2000, with lovely evenly spaced jumps between sprockets.
Never had a problem with ground clearance myself, but I appreciate other people might (I’ve always ridden HTs).
Front mechs are far simpler than rears.

With regard to change, the only actual improvement made in changing gear I’ve witnessed with current systems compared to my old gear is that when changing to a smaller sprocket or chainring, the shifter now moves when you pull the trigger rather than release it.

If you go down the Italian sprocket route, they are lighter than the rings they replace.

What chain device? NW chainrings and clutch mechs do the job. And if you do need a top guide they weigh nothing.

If you need 27 gears then that’s cool. It’s just not for everyone these days as there is a ‘choice’.

My 1×10 gets me up everything and down everything. The bike is silent too, which adds to my enjoyment 😮

Thanks Robin.

Not sure the Ground clearance thing is really the most significant benefit, TBH ground clearance is about on par with a 2xN setup, weight and simplicity are the major reasons to go 1xN IMO…

Having resisted 1XN for a while, I do find myself more and more tempted to bastardize myself a 1×9 trial setup just to see how it goes… More fixie / SS riding lately is helping me with the MTFUness, so getting rid of some ratios might be a good thing…

My trouble is that I go and calculate the ratios my drivetrain can achieve and my current 36/22 with 11-32 cassette can go silly low, not that I need those gears 98% of the time

What happened to that fella who was flogging 38 and 40t replacement steel sprockets on ebay? still going? couldn’t find them in a search

I’m just going by what I read on here.
No-one ran 1x last time I was shopping for a bike (other than dirt jumpers), and it seems like lots of people do need a chain device.
I can’t believe the hunks of Italian metal weigh less than the sprockets on my bike, which is all I had to compare to, but I’m not 100% au fait with current set-ups.

I can’t believe the hunks of Italian metal weigh less than the sprockets on my bike, which is all I had to compare to, but I’m not 100% au fait with current set-ups.

They do though, regardless of whether it seems likely. I weighed them myself last night on a set of digital kitchen scales. It’s not going to make your bike noticeably lighter but they definitely are measurably lighter.
They are far more machined out on the back than you are likely to have appreciated from the photos on the net.

robinlaidlaw – Member

They do though

How much do my sprockets weigh then? 😉

How much do my sprockets weigh then?

Which 10 speed cassette are you running? 😉

Robin, are you using a SRAM cassette for this or have they released a shimano compatible one? I’d be tempted but I thought they hd decided against shimano cassettes because of the spider and don’t fancy new SRAM cassette and the adapter.

Cheers

They’ve released a Shimano one, just available in last few weeks. Works with XT & SLX (not XTR) only

How much do my sprockets weigh then?

and XT setup vs the General lee:

FWIW i’m awaiting the delivery of my shimano 40T sprockets (should be here 13th Aug) and works components fat/thin chain ring (monday)… so no chain device needed…. not that weight is a huge factor for me but i’ll have lost:

a front ring
front shifter
front derailleur
2x chain device
front gear cabling stuff
and a bit of weight in the sprocket section (lol)

I just see it as losing a lot of clutter (that I don’t use much) rather than the weight.

I love the silence of my bike now.

also, watch this if you’re thinking about it for Shimano:

click me

I’ve ordered one of these from Bagnoli Bikes and it should be here by the end of the week. Can anybody tell me if I should use a medium or a long cage mech with it. Also, if I get a clutch mech such as the SLX M675 Shadow+ does that do away with the need for a chain guide altogether?

Thanks in advance

Did you just email them then Paypal them the money Johnny? Might be looking at one later in the year. The consensus is that a medium cage will be fine as long as you’re running a single ring up front, think it says so on a couple of places like bikeradar/pinkbike on their reviews.

If you’re using a thick/thin front chainring and doing XC then probably get away with no guide but if you’re riding rougher stuff, especially with short/no rear travel the I’d use a top guide

Yes Rob. A couple of emails and it was all done. All seems very efficient thus far! Just going back to the rear mech, if I still need a chain guide even with a clutch mech and a thick thin chain ring, why bother with the extra expense of those components? The bike they’re going on is my Orange Alpine 160. It’s a pretty bombproof build so more intended for the rough stuff, I’m confused!

If this setup is comparable with xx1, & let’s face it, that’s the point, then you should not need any kind of chain guide or device… My adapter will hopefully be here by this weekend and will be put to use/tested in the lakes straight away

If this setup is comparable with xx1, & let’s face it, that’s the point, then you should not need any kind of chain guide or device… My adapter will hopefully be here by this weekend and will be put to use/tested in the lakes straight away

Rob – where have you ordered yours from?

Looking at getting one at the end of the month……..(payday!!!!)

From eBay a seller called mop18795 based in Portugal….

robgclarkson – Member

If this setup is comparable with xx1, & let’s face it, that’s the point, then you should not need any kind of chain guide or device

Plenty folk not finding that to be the case with XX1

Im not one of them. I have xx1 on a hardtail and have been blown away with the silence and chain retention, hence why I’m doing this on my full sus…

I can’t afford the full xx1 conversion though and I can do this for just under £200…

If it’s going on a 160 I’d be running a full guide like you said and not bothering with thick thin chainring and cluth mech.

Anything with ISCG tabs are worth using in my book