Lacquer over decals (or not)?

I have a Chinese carbon glossy frame, and some custom decals to apply. Should I apply lacquer over the top of the decals, or not bother?

I’ve seen mixed information, and am now a bit concerned that the lacquer may react with the decals and it’ll look rubbish.

Any thoughts or experience of doing this?

I’m in a similar situation with a frame I’ve just had resprayed. Think I’m going to apply the decals then cover the lot in Helitape or similar, seems the simplest option to me.

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Untitled[/url] by Plus one2010[/url], on Flickr

Matt finish frame .. Low sheen laquer applied over frame/decals no issues .. Tatty decals look rubbish 🙁

I think we have similar frames plus one, although mine is the cantilever version.

My finger is hovering over the nozzle of a can of lacquer, but I can’t bring myself to spray the frame. A test run on an old fork with an extra vinyl sticker I had worked fine. I’m hesitating now as the decals I have are quite intricate in places and some of the thinner sections are lifting (especially where they follow a line or curve on the frame). A good overcoat of lacquer maybe the thing to hold them down, but I’m worried that they’ll still lift and I’ll be left with a horrid mess.

The decals would have looked great, but I just don’t think I want to risk it.

How complex are the decals? Maybe ask a vinyl lettering company make you up some new ones? Fixing dodgy decals could be way easier than fixing dodgy lacquering, which will be extremely easy to do…

Just to add I got decals from Gil m(used him for couple of years) decals of high quality and lacquer friendly..
Cycling buddy has a car body shop so he done the prep/lacquer ..

Was quoted £75 from another local body shop when I started looking.. Worth the money for a quality job and frame looks mint after 9 months of abuse 🙂

mainly depends on the make up of the decals, if they are a single colour cut vinyl there is no need to clear coat them, this should be the same quality as Automotive vinyl, used for vehicle liveries and should be good for at least 3-5 years

you can tell if the reverse of the decal is the same colour as the front “pre-coloured” vinyl

if they are a solvent print onto a white media base and the bike will see regular use its worth clear coating the frame, just watch how it’s cured, in most cases don’t oven bake the frame to cure the clear coat, the very high and then low temperatures expand and contract the vinyl and cause cracks around the edge of the decal

if you use a 2 pack or air dry lacquer you should be fine, but always best to do a test if possible or talk to your painter

other option is request the decals have a laminate after print, ideal for large “wrap” decals but not really for small individual decals

if you have some “unique” decals always worth getting a scan before fitting, just in case you need a second set

Hope this helps

I’m in “no lacquer” camp,seen some horrible sights post crash where decals torn-up through lacquer,so to fix you have to have it refinished. Bikes like Orange*/Cove use decals over paint finish so you can change graphics whenever you like. Thin factory applied transfer type decals have to be lacquered* as this “fixes” them as they would scratch off very easily.*AFAIK. It is possible to scalpel-cut around a lacquered decal and cut it out,done this my self. If decal is in a wear area just cover in heli tape to protect. Hope this helps..

Just noticed that’s a rubbish photo …

This ones better ..

Yes mine are single colour vinyl and Gil did say no need to lacquer .. Seeing as the bike was going to see lots of mud/filth I reckoned this would be my best option .. But the decals are really good quality and adhere well so no reason they won’t look good for a long time without lacquer ..

My frame/fork were left in drying oven but not a clue if low temp etc.. ?

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Untitled[/url] by Plus one2010[/url], on Flickr

Thanks for all the replies. Very helpful, and underlines how little I know about this process.

These are vinyl decals. Thickish, so have a distinct edge to them. They are lifting in just a couple of places where the sticker is quite narrow.

one of the flaws with a self coloured vinyl, it will be between 0.8 – 0.6 micron in thickness so will always have an “edge” to it, not really ideal for thin line work or small text, but fine for 2-3mm and above if not in high wear areas

certainly know of one frame refinished who regularly bakes my decals but I only use Cast vinyl and this makes a big difference – always go with a cast vinyl over a calendered if you get an option – a little thinner and more stable at higher temperatures, with better adhesion