Headset problem…quick advice needed

Just pressing in a headset to frame using homemade press. Top cup is going on straight however lower has gone wonky.

What should I do? Will this have damaged headset or more importantly the frame?

When you say going in straight sounds like you’re pressing them in both at the same time? Pop the lower one out and start again pushing it in level. I do them one at a time.

Yep, just knocked it out and can’t have been very far in as knocked out with hardly a hit! Do you think frame will be ok. Tried doing just the top cup but won’t go in easily at all!

Looking at it the headset only went in about as far as you can push with your hands. Now deciding whether to buy new h/set and tool or take it to the shop!

What’s the frame made from.

Can you not drift it in?

Use some smaller washers so that they sit inside the cup; tighten the press as far as you can without forcing, then gently tap the cup along its circumference with a rubber mallet. Repeat until cup is seated.

It’s a steel 853 frame

It’ll be fine, even with an alu frame you have to make a titanic cock of it to have any chance of hurting the frame- the headset’s by far the weaker part. But chances that even the headset’s damaged are very slim. I’d batter it in with a hammer, personally, never fails.

(I own a headset press, never use it now though.)

There’s no marks or deformation of the headset. May get LBs to take a look and stick a headset in for me.

Took it to the shop and he said absolutely no damage. He said the headset would be damaged long before the frame and the headset has no mark on it. He said the cups were not even going in due to paint overspray, the frame needs reaming and facing.

he frame needs reaming and facing pressing in, then charging for reaming and facing.

Stick the headset in the freezer first..

Yup that’s a sales pitch!

Some frames do need reaming and facing. That’s why Park and others make reaming and facing tools, and why bike shops invest lots of money in them. It’s a precision bearing, it’s quite important to get it reasonably straight.

I usually tap them in with a hammer and block of wood by eye then give a good wack to seat it properly. not had any problems or premature failures. would be different on carbon frame though

If it’s a well made frame, you can remove paint overspray/powdercoat overgloop without reaming tools- you’re just taking it back to the metal which hopefully is made right.

Reaming and facing should be a myth. It should be done before they leave the factory but manufacturers can get away with cutting that corner, so, no reason to assume the shop is trying it on.

You could see the paint overspray and he measured it with his calibration tool. I’m often pessimistic about things like this but on this occasion think its worth doing.

Sounds like you did the right thing to me. What frame was it?

853 Prince Albert Classic

PA?

Tough as boots, knock it in with a bit of wood. I’m sure I’m a miracle of good fortune but i have never used anything other than a soft mallet or a bit of wood and I’ve never had premature headset bearing wear in 20 years of building bikes.

^ as said up there, it might be a precision component but it doesn’t really go round and round a lot does it?

it doesn’t really go round and round a lot does it?

Bit more to this bearing lark than that.