Headset Press – Which are a dream to use?

I’ve put headsets in with a mallet and a lump of wood etc.  More recently I’ve been using a basic cheapie threaded rod affair that is a right pain to use due to multiple washers and bearings that all have to be placed in order and then a nut threaded on from the end.  If this wasn’t arduous enough the whole lot requires careful use to keep everything in line and not go askew.  And now I’ve trodden on it and the rod is banana shaped.

Instead of a new bit of rod I’m tempted to splash the cash on a good quality press.  Currently looking at Park and Unior as they look like solid lumps, have one end that is quick release and are not made up of multiple little bits that bounce across the shed floor.

Anyone used either and found it A1 or had some niggles?  Any better suggestions?  Ease of use is king here and if it can withstand being trodden on even better.

My Park one is 20 years old and I intend to pass it down to Hatter Jr. Its a rather unsubtle but effective lump and the quick release end is handy.

I’m sure there are far eastern cheapies out there but I like the fact that 20 years down the line I can still get spares for mine.

I’ve always done mine with a bench vice, two big flat surfaces seem to work very well.

I did treat myself to a proper star nut fitter though, much easier to get it straight than the ‘bolt and hammer’s approach of old.

I’ve used Park and Unior presses when working in shops but I do my own using a threaded rod, two flat plates and two nuts. For all the times I’ve needed to fit a headset, that’s fine. Having said that, I did invest in a bearing press and in a derailleur adjustment tool and they get used with about the same frequency so what do I know? No man shouild be discouraged from buying the “proper” tools.

I did treat myself to a proper star nut fitter though,

11mm socket works a treat.

I have a headset press but it’s way more faff and slower than an irrigation fitting i have and a hammer.

It’s another thing to have a quality press, and do so in a way that makes everything simpler to use. I have used some small parks but not park or unior particularly but i have heared some good about them.

I have a Park one. Takes seconds to use although now I’ve got a carbon frame I daren’t use it..

I’ve got a bearing pro tools press which is good.  You don’t get a nice box, it’s not anodised a fancy colour, but they work. I got some thrust bearings for it too.

At the end of the day they’re all bits of threaded rod with drifts on.

I also have some bsc press handles which are nicely anodised. There are a range of drifts from bearing pro tools and RRP (via Wych bearings). 

I’ve managed quite well with and old school fork with a long threaded steerer tube, then used the top head set nut to press in the cups.  It took a bit of bodgery to get the right length right, but the results were fine.

Finally went “pro” with threaded bar and big washers.

The thing with hammers and sockets for headpresses etc is they are all well and good when they work. But a right faff when it doesn’t go to plan.

RIP NJS dura ace headset…

Decision made, Park version ordered. I’m almost looking forward to giving it a go

You won’t regret it, the park one is all you need

My Park is getting on for 30 years old. It’s solid kit. Go for it. I suppose you might get a used ine? Make sure you get the required bits with it tho. .

I think I’ve got the old Unior one. It’s so heavy  just resting it on the upper cup is enough to get it started…Has downsides though as its a bit unweidly to use.

I have a cheap one and it works fine. However it is so old it only has 11/8th drifts. I just use it on the 1.5 cup and adjust with a hammer if it not straight. Never really happy doing it.

Can you buy just drifts for more modern sizes? Seems a waste of money/resources/energy to buy a whole new tool.

My cheap one is all but guaranteed to see the headset cup start go in wonky before it begins to bind.

I assume the park one resolves this issue?

block of wood and a hammer is all I use…

My cheap one is all but guaranteed to see the headset cup start go in wonky before it begins to bind.

I assume the park one resolves this issue?

That is what I’m hoping.  Most frames don’t appear to have perfectly round head tubes, only a carbon Kona and a Nicolai were spot on that I remember and I do remember because it seems so rare.  I’m hoping a more substantial press is going to do a better job of keeping everything straight.

I’ll just add my usual recommendation to stick the headset cups in the freezer overnight before fitting.

mrl
I have a cheap one and it works fine. However it is so old it only has 11/8th drifts. I just use it on the 1.5 cup and adjust with a hammer if it not straight. Never really happy doing it.

Can you buy just drifts for more modern sizes? Seems a waste of money/resources/energy to buy a whole new tool.

Yes you can – I bought a set for my press when I went from 1.25″ to 1.5″ headsets –

Here’s an example – Headset Cup Press Tool – BearingProTools – Bike, Bicycle, Cycle | eBay 

I’ve a cheap (Cyclus?)one and I do miss the quick release as it’s a pita to wind it in and out every time as the things far too long. Having said that it’s better than the bit of threaded road and some washers I used before.