I’ve done a number of belt drive conversions on various bikes.
What I learned was the most important feature on the bike was lateral stiffness in the chainstays. Basically it comes down to bikes designed for singlespeed work better because you are less likely to get misalignment under power. The belt then tries to ride up the cog and then cracks back into place and if that happens often enough you risk breakage.
The cog you show is the improved version from the early ones, so it is probably more able to self correct for a small amount of misalignment.
If you’re looking to split a frame that does not already have a joint, then go for a frame with a flat plate dropout because that makes the job of conversion something you can do yourself rather than pay a framebuilder.
Here’s a link to a conversion I did 11 years ago.
I’ve tried various systems from V to 8mm to Gates, but this system looks worth a try because it appears to have better mud/grit clearing capabilities than the other, and its USP is it is a split belt, therefore no frame split needed.
Split Belt™ Pro Belt Drive