Replacing the rear shock on my enduro bike.
With the shock removed, found the suspension linkage was feeling 'notchy' and traced this down to the non-drive side main pivot bearing feeling like it was seized (i.e. I couldn't rotate the inner race with my finger).
Removed both main pivot bearings, the drive side came out without any drama but the non-drive side was very tight.
Following the removal of the bearings was surprised to find that they both moved freely but ordered some new ones anyway.
Have just fitted the new bearings. Fitted the drive side first using the correct bearing press and it went in smoothly. The non-drive side went in perfectly straight but was significantly tighter than the drive side.
The drive side bearing rotates but I can't move the non-drive side with my finger.
I suspect the bore that seats the non-drive side bearing is slightly too small, effectively crushing the bearing once fitted?
Any one else had a similar problem?
Is this something that can normally be repaired under warranty or would it be a replacement frame job?
I would rather avoid the hassle, and lost bike time, of sending the bike back under warranty so am open to low risk solutions I can perform myself....
Thanks
I'd suggest that's a warranty issue.
I had exact same issue on my orbea rise. Cheap aftermarket bearings (blue seal). Smooth out of the bike. Notchy and awful in the bike.
i swapped for same BO bearings orbea use and problem solved. Wych bearings I think as I couldnt wait for orbea delivery times.
if you havent yet get some decent brand bearings with better tolerances. Possibly direct from the bike manufacturer / supplier if you can. At least that way you know the frame is designed around them and their tolerances. FWIW orbea supplied bearings cheaper than i could source here so ordered spares.
Thanks for the replies.
Replacement bearings are good quality.
I think it's the bore to be honest as have used two different bearings in the drive side with both moving freely and two different bearings in non-drive side with both being tight.
Using my analogue calipers am getting the following measurements:-
Bearings OD 24.0 mm
Drive side bore ID 23.9mm
Non-Drive side bore ID 23.8mm
Reluctant to press any more bearings in case I risk damaging the frame.
Looks like a warranty job :-$
Pushed it in from the middle- bolloxed the bearing?
Blue Seal have always worked well for me. Your non DS at .2 undersize does seem tight. Hard to DIY that I’d think.
and yeah never push in using the inner -pressure only on the outer race.
Depending on the bike, age, willingness from the importer/manufacturer, if he tempted to try a honing tool on that. Chances are, that's all that will happen if you post it off to them.
Is the non-driveside bore the same in all dimensions or is it ovalised?
Also how old is the frame and who is it from?
Can't see or measure any ovality in the bore.
Bearings were pushed in using the correct size bearing press and went in square.
It's a 2022 Whyte G180.
Don't really want the hassle of sending back for warranty if I can fix myself.
Will have a look at honing tools.
Don't Whyte do free bearings for life
I would let Whyte sort this out as 0.2mm is a relatively large difference but going to difficult to machine unless you have the right kit. See what they say before having a go.
In my experience, albeit a few years ago, Whyte are really good with with warranty stuff, very helpful. Definitely ask them what they think, you don't want to try something which doesn't work but does invalidate the warranty, at least if you ask first and they say 'go ahead' you've still got a warranty to fall back on
I'd be trying for warranty first, but if that doesn't work out, before I went to the hassle/risk of increasing the bore size, it would probably be worth trying a C3 spec bearing if they're available in the correct size.
C3 have increased tolerance to allow for tight press fits