Fox remote lockouts….

WTF…
How rubbish are they?
Does anyone have one that works properly for more than 5 mins….
Garbage

Is this a grievance thing or a genuine question as if a question, I’d be interested in hearing users thoughts on this for a rear shock.

Mine has worked fine for the last year. It’s getting a bit sticky now so I’m going to replace the cables and outers. What problems are you having?

Even with new cables it lasts a week or 2.
It will lock out ok but won’t unlock from the lever.
I either have to reach down and manually pull the cable with my finger and thumb (making a remote lever pointless) or it just won’t unlock at all….
Ive resorted to just leaving it unlocked and putting a bit more air in the forks
Rubbish

I had the 1x version, mounted upside down on the right, for a while. It worked well until I had an off and smashed it.

I’ve now got the 2x version and it works a treat.

I use them front and rear with Scott’s twinloc lever. Mostly faultless aside from a mid season quick turn of the barrel adjuster to get the fork cable tugging far enough to get full lockout.
Never used fox’s own lever.

I’d be interested in hearing users thoughts on this for a rear shock.

My Instinct has a remote switch for the CTD settings – I like it, pretty intuitive, works well.

Thanks Dez and Bearback.

Will look into getting one and a new ks remote lever thingy so it’s more like a wolftooth lever.

jonny m – what fork is this on? If it’s a FIT4 damper then there were issues with the blue dials binding on the back housing and there’s a fix in the form of a blue dial with a pressed-on bearing > solves the issue.

In 4years of use I’ve had very few issues with Fox remote lok-outs front and rear.

I removed all the remote lock outs from my bike at great pain.

Waste of time and bar space.

Not a fan of the fox 3 position remote, very tempted to get a scott twinloc but they’re expensive (£70! Really?!) and I’d have to change my dropper lever back to the normal ks one instead of the under bar lever I’ve got at the minute.

The bearing in mine died quite quickly but I got it replaced on warranty and it’s been spot on afterwards.

@ everyone, interesting info as I’m going to opt for a southpaw lever for my ks and will probably leave the idea of having fox remote lever for shock due to levers fouling one another issue.

Thanks

It is the FIT 4 version…
However the forks have been back to Mojo after a couple of months, they said there was nothing wrong with them.

Just so frustrated that something which should be so simple just doesn’t work and not sure how to solve it…

@Bearback

Would being interested in your feedback on the remotes in the Scott.
The 2018 Scott Genius is on my shortlist for my next bike (assuming I can find one in XL!) but I really dislike the crowded handlebar and am wary of proprietary parts so was thinking maybe I could just remove lockout levers and cables.
I rarely twiddle with suspension settings or bother locking out the fork/shock on my existing bike so I don’t think I’d miss the capability of it wasn’t there.
So, I guess my questions are (a) is it possible to run the bike without the lockouts and (b) whether the “traction mode” is even worth considering?

I had the twinlock on my Scott. Worked brilliantly and I was amazed at how much I used it. Made a difference to my riding that I didnt expect. Recommend it.

had the twinlock on my Scott. Worked brilliantly and I was amazed at how much I used it. Made a difference to my riding that I didnt expect. Recommend it.

Interesting…what sort of trails do you normally ride?

I know Bearback rides in Squamish BC and I live on Vancouver’s North Shore (and ride Squamish occasionally,though not as often as I’d like!)
I don’t generally tend to ride trails which undulate much – they are usually fairly long climbs followed by fairly long descents.

“Most” local riders pause for breath/re-group and twiddle with the bikes before descending so trails aren’t constantly up & down so {IMO} remote not that useful (there are exceptions, of course)

Mark,
I’ve been running tracloc and then twinloc since 2006.
Its like a clutch pedal on a car.. its there, its a thing, but you just use it. It doesn’t take any thought.

We have some guides that remove the remotes and run stuff fully open all the time.
I’ve liked the traction mode on every length travel 3 mode bike I’ve had (pretty long list).
Lock out for relatively smooth climbs, traction mode (reduced travel rear, added compression to fork) for tech climbs and any descending where I’m not balls to the wall. Fully open if stuff is getting steep or super fast. I’m in traction mode way more than in descend mode.
I can’t actually think of a Squamish descent trail that I would be stuck in open mode for. Maybe p’nuts/19th but everything else has at least some point where I’m going to be pedalling even a short section and clicking into traction (simply because its there as an option)

Scott have constantly improved their integrated cabling but yes there are cables, but it doesn’t bother me in the slightest. I absolutely appreciate that can be a thing for people though.

If you remove the remote setup, you may as well switch the forks remote top cap for a lever top cap. Direct swap, I do it pretty often when swapping forks. Rear shock, totally fine to just run it open and set your sag that way, but if you’re going to be using the bike as a 150mm North Shore ‘crusher’ then I’d consider a Float DPX2.. but the Nude with its Evol can is plenty of shock as is.

@BB:thanks!

markgraylish – where I ride it’s constantly up or down in the space of a few minutes or yards. Im trying hard to keep up with my mates or drop them, so all and any advantages are worth having.

Lots of short sharp climbs followed by bumpy descents. With the occasional longer climb on smooth ground. So for me being able to switch to locked out for the longer smooth climbs makes sense.

The for general hard sprinting I’m in the middle setting. After that its fully open for the descents. Just when I get to the bottom I switch it for the climb. No stopping, all done on the fly.

This is how most of my rides are in the UK. I figure that with good suspension it seems I might as well make the most of it.