Externalising cable routing…

I have a Sonder Camino with internal routing, which has suffered from slightly heavy shifting since new. I’d like to externalise the cables, to get easier bends and smoother shifts.

I’m happy to just bodge it with cable ties, but is there a smarter or better established technique?

Youo can buy little sticky on hose/housing guides. I’m looking to externalize the rear brake hose on the ebike because changing it required removing the motor and no way im getting involved in that.

eg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203557068720?itmmeta=01J5B2N64KQHYRA10QM62EP6E2&hash=item2f64f25fb0:g:FkcAAOSwiKJhFADx

I was thinking use these for along the middle of a tube, and zippies are the ends where the hose/housing is going to get moved about from steering/rear movement.

Internal routing is a right royal pain in the 4r5e.

Beaten to it

Just buy cable ties in a color that matches your frame and run the cables under the top tube or down tube, whichever gives the best routing.

Weirdly this is exactly my current project for the same reason as dyna-ti. I have had the motor out before to replace dropper cable but managed to damage contacts costing a new speed sensor. There really isn’t much clearance between motor and frame so taking the brake hose out of the equation is a real plus

I used those self-adhesive hose guides in the past. Great solution but the adhesive was always crap and never lasted, Pairing them with some mega sticky numberplate ahdesive pads was more successful IME.

https://www.freewheel.co.uk/m-part-self-adhesive-cable-guides-brt0302

Something like this maybe?

Why not dona full run inner by drilling the cable stops

Have you tried SP41 optislick cables for the shifter ?

It looks like it already uses full length inner cables.

I’d be suspicious this is the problem, rather than the fact they run internally.

I’d try some sort of low friction cable and housing.

Youo can buy little sticky on hose/housing guides.

They always fall off in the end though. You can buy packs of cable mounts from places like Ali Express that are pop-riveted, much more permanent. Although you’ll void your warranty if that bothers you.

Use slick stainless steel as opposed to the coated Shimano shite optislick or teflon coated

The dropper cable route on my ebike is shocking but still works beautifully.
Maybe something else is wrong.
Surely you have an internal dropper and you’re trying to make it external?

m-parts fall off.

so far these have been excellent:

https://jagwire.com/products/small-parts/stick-on-guides

did shape them before removing the film on the sticky:

For the sticky clips I’d look for ones with 3M VHB tape, if such things exist

Or get clamp on cable stops and never need to worry about the stickiness of sticky tape.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/down-tube-stops-fittings/

FWIW my Camino Rival has super smooth shifting. I take it you’ve tried replacing the cable, including the outer?

You used to be able to get heavy duty zip ties with the slot for the hose/cable incorporated – like a more flexible variant of the clamps above. I’ve had mixed results with stick-on guides.

Partial solution:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123911019762?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yhVf7NOtQ4i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=fskVY7jvSgK&var=424677296048&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

FWIW my Camino Rival has super smooth shifting. I take it you’ve tried replacing the cable, including the outer?

+1 My Camino, built from frame with Shimano GRX stuff shifts just fine, there’s no issue with the arcs of the cables and none of the reviews I’ve ever read has suggested that the Camino has an inherent issue with smooth shifting, so I suspect there’s a specific issue with your cables. I’d fit some premium cables and see if you still want to plaster your bike with zip-ties and adhesive cable guides.

I also found one of the cheapo internal cable routing tools from amazon worked well for feeding stuff through the frame. Not saying I love internal routing, it’s a pain in the backside with brake hose in particular, but the issues tend to be convenience rather than day-to-day shifting ime.

Assuming the outer gear sheath is still in place, just use a tandem rear inner gear cable (~£4) to allow easy replacement of the outer sheath.

Am I missing something with internal routing? What makes it such a pain?

Even with hoses you can presumably replace them by running a cable through, pulling the hose off that and then pushing the replacement hose over the cable? Much like swapping vascular catheters mid-procedure.

My past experiences with sticky shifting have usually been due to corrosion near the ends or in moisture-collecting upward bends. The suggestions to try new cables and outers are where I’d start.

If the outers are sections though I’d definitely replace with full outers even if that meant external routing and ignoring the designer’s plan for the bike.

Have now done this job using the eBay stickies mentioned above and all came together very well. After three rides the cable guides have not moved and  of course didn’t have to disturb the motor. It also took a fraction of the time to thread internal routing.