Home › Forums › Bike Forum › Expander cog/cassette question – sorry!
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Expander cog/cassette question – sorry!
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rascalFree Member
I know there’s a few threads about this at the mo…just need a quick yes or no please re: 1×10
I have a 10 speed Deore 11-36 cassette that’s pinned through except for the 2 smallest cogs.
Could I lose the 11 and get a different sized lockring to go against the 13 to make way for a 40/42 expander cog at the other end? Reluctant(ish) to get an XT as this Deore is only 4 rides old…apologies and thankyou.nickjbFree MemberCan’t see the point. Why not just keep the cassette as is and use a smaller front. The purpose of the expander is to give a wider range.
Deore cassettes can be split. Either hacksaw the pins through one spacer (you’ll need a new spacer from an old cassette) or drill the heads of the pins and pull them through. Then you can lose a middle cog and get the wider range.
reggiegasketFree Memberwhat nick said. Drill/pop the pins and go from there. Better to keep the 11t and swap the 15+17 for a 16.
mikewsmithFree MemberReluctant(ish) to get an XT as this Deore is only 4 rides old…apologies and thankyou.
Ebay the deore and get an XT/SRAM the difference in weight will shock you too
alexhFree MemberAs above, or praxxis.
The cost of expanders are not far off the cost of a whole cassette.
nickjbFree MemberStill waiting on a longer term quality review of these new cassettes. The praxis was quite a bit more expensive than a shimano plus expander but that Sunrace looks promising. Even at deore quality/weight that’s decent.
bustaFree MemberGetting rid of the 11t and adding a 40t would give you 20% less gear range overall, so a definite step backwards!
hamishthecatFree MemberIf you need to split the cassette the pins drive out very easily – I just pushed mine out with a hammer and nail…
rascalFree MemberArrrgghhhhhhhh!
I might be making this 1×10 thing more complicated than it actually is BUT…few more questions…If I get a 40T expander or if I get an 11-40 cassette like the Sunrace, will I need a long cage rear mech (SLX) or need a get a rad cage (or whatever it is) or will it be fine as it is? Sure it’s NOT a short cage anyway – on a Cannondale Trigger.
Are expander rings all similar? I notice the Hope T Rex has shifting ramps or similar but Superstar and Works Components don’t seem to – does it matter? Are the cheaper ones mentioned any good?
Getting rid of the 11t and adding a 40t would give you 20% less gear range overall, so a definite step backwards!
Is that so? If I could that would be loads cheaper – I realise I’ll have less pedal-able gears descending but how come 20% less? I might be being a dumbass here 😉
I know it will work if I throw loads of money at it but I want to use as much of what I have as possible – if it will work that is. I want to stop pissing about asking questions on forums and just bloody do it – I just need confirmation on a few things first…cheers
jfb01Free MemberTo answer the original question,Yes ,they are made by Absolute Black for that very reason.
nickjbFree MemberMedium cage is the best option but long cage will work fine. You don’t need a rad cage but it does improve shifting. I use a superstar expander and shifting is a slick as the rest of the cassette. Starting from scratch I’d seriously consider the sunrace but it’s easy to modify a shimano cassette so fine either way.
Gears are all about ratios rather than absolute numbers. Use the rear to get as big a range as possible then choose a front to give you the best overall gearing. Normaly choose a ratio that works for climbing and end up a little compromised at the top end unless you like walking.
bustaFree MemberGetting rid of the 11t and adding a 40t would give you 20% less gear range overall, so a definite step backwards!
Is that so? If I could that would be loads cheaper – I realise I’ll have less pedal-able gears descending but how come 20% less? I might be being a dumbass here [/quote]
11 to 36 tooth cassette gives you a 227% overall change.
13 to 40 tooth cassette gives a 207% overall change.
By comparison, Srams 10 to 42 tooth has a 320% change…It’s not just the size of the biggest cog- the smallest ones matter equally as much, hence why Sram have gone to a 10 tooth.
rascalFree MemberThanks all – jfb01 – that Absolute Black would do the trick but busta’s thrown the whole taking the 11t off into doubt.
Got home and used an old 8 speed cassette as a test – it was pinned through (minus the 2 smallest) but only with one pin – it was easy enough but need to do that x4 so still easy in theory.
Read on One Up site that you can used a split SLX cassette but as they’d then all be separate cogs you do so ‘at your own risk’ or words to that effect…that’s what I’d end up with.
Even if I could find a reasonably priced 13t lockring and got a Superstar one off here for @£20 it’s £30 all-in plus the faff-factor (not knowing if the sep cogs will damage the freehub body as per One Up comment).
Makes more sense to get the Sunrace…then again an XT will be lighter but I’d need a 16t tooth…..Jesus – shoot me now. Will someone decide for me? 🙄StainypantsFull MemberThere’s also an alloy sunrace cassette for £60 that isn’t such an anchor. I might give it a go.
rascalFree MemberHad a go on someone’s 1×10 setup today – in a car park so hardly a true test.
32T Hope on XTR cranks up front with an XT 11-36 with Hope Trex out back. Felt like a big spread.
Felt like there would be enough oompff to get down something and very granny gear-esque in the 40.
Just thinking though….will my 30T up front and 11-36 without 40T expander feel similar when climbing? I know I’ll lose out on speed with a 30T instead of a 32T when descending but if that’s the only difference I’d do that instead of buying a new XT cassette and expander…reggiegasketFree Memberthis is your friend http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/
32-40 is 21.1 inches*
30-36 is 22
so very similar
*on a 26er setup, for comparison
rascalFree MemberCheers – will have a proper look when have more time….mine’s a 650b.
reggiegasketFree MemberIt’s a personal thing of course, but on a 27.5/650b my advice is – if you want to stick with 11-36 at the back – then run a 30t at the front. 32 is just a bit too hard on steep stuff and when you’re knackered. Sure you’ll lose some top end but that’s not as big a deal as the low stuff.
If you go the expander route then it’s a closer call and a 32t ring is doable. I run 11spd on my 27.5 so it’s a slightly different set of choices for me (I run a 32 oval on a 11-42).
If you do run an expander then the 15+17 swap for a 16 is worthwhile.
chestercopperpotFree MemberGot the Sunrace MX3 11-40t, the all alloy cassette. I usually put up with the weight of steel for the sake of longevity and not having to straighten the teeth every other ride! The last alloy SRAM cassette I had kept bending and needed constant attention toward the end of it’s life, so will see how this go’s.
Not ridden in anger yet but it does sound a bit noisy and tinny when spinning in the stand, setup is a bit finecky, shifts are plenty fast (Deore med cage mech & rip off Rad Cage from the off) quick peddle about the street seemed to quiet down nicely and shifted without problems.
Had to space the front ring (32t) to get a centre chain line (used a thick crush washer) it was miles off, due to the BB spacer I should imagine, on press fit so more likely to knacker the BB getting it out.
Hmmmm I going to hesitate recommending anything until I’ve thrashed it for a bit, could see this set-up being temperamental when the chain stretches.
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