Drop bar position and shape

Everyone’s different, but for me before I put the brakes on I like to set the bars level as they sweep forwards so the lead in to the hoods is level. Then the brakes go on with a really small up lift on the hoods, erring on the side of flat.

For me the OP’s photo has the bars rotated too far forward (clockwise in the photo) and the brakes are too high on the bars.

Rotating the bars back and pushing the levers forward on the bars would both give me a more natural position and bring the lever tips closer when in the drops.

But you’re not me.

Like I said, this is how they are designed to be set up

LOL. The photos on that link you posted don’t even have them set up like that 🙂

OP’s issue is NOT the position on the hoods but reaching the levers on the drops. Rolling the bars forward will bring the levers CLOSER to him at a more neutral angle.

It will actually move the levers further away. It will only help him reach the levers if he puts his hand in a different place on the drops, which could be achieved without moving the bars at all. The relationship between the levers and the handlebars is determined by where the brifters are positioned on the bars not the angle of the bars themselves.

OP also says that the angle of the hoods tips his wrist upwards so having them set closer to level might offset this. Flipping the stem and therefore lowering the bar will increase the angle of his wrists.

Totally agree, having the hoods level with certainly help. Flipping the stem won’t have any impact on the angle of the wrists, unless you change something else as well.Moving the levers on the bars will achieve positioning of the wrists on the hoods and reach to the lever on the drops.
Even on a road bike, if your seat is too high, you don’t generally solve it by installing longer cranks.

Yep, they appear to be pointing up, which will make the levers further to reach.

Not sure how the OP hasn’t worked this out himself.

I’m hoping these pics work

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It’s my first time fitting drops. I’ve got Ritchey Beacons after some great advice on here last week.
I’ve given these a quick spin, and they feel good. Does this seem like an ok set-up?

I’m aware that the reach of the levers is very tight. It was the only way I could reach them with the old bars. I’ll loosen them off a bit when I’m sure I have a good position.
PS comments about state of garden, dirtiness of chain, etc all considered.

I’d always assumed the levers on those types of bars should angle in towards the front wheel slightly, to match the angle of the drops – otherwise you will need to pull your fingers back a long way to get them around the levers when on the drops – or you have to angle your wrists backwards. But give it a go and adjust as needed. It’s about comfort for you, not some theoretical ‘rule’

I see what you mean. It felt ok when I was riding – I think as the bars are so wide my arms were angled in that direction.

I’ll give it another try, though, before I put the tape on, and I’ll bear your comment in mind.

Finally some bar tape arrived to enable me to have a play.

You can see old lever position (background) after I’ve rolled the bars flatter. The new rolled up bars with moved down lever position does indeed increase reach, a lot. I’ve moved saddle forward.

To me it looks like your bars have a classic bend, where you’re not supposed to get a flat ramp leading into the hoods. Like on Scotroutes’ first photo above. That way you just hook your thumbs on the lever, which really isn’t the way modern brake levers are meant to be used. It will also lower your hood position significantly.

So new bars might be in order…

I’d roll the bar forward and move the lever up the bar a bit (quite a lot, actually).

I’d roll the bar forward and move the lever up the bar a bit (quite a lot, actually).

Which would take me back to my starting position, that doesn’t work for me…

I do think new bars may be needed…

I don’t think you’re far off. I’d move the hoods up a touch, not much, and you’re about there.

That’s what I’ve settled on @lunge – bars as is, shifter nudged up a touch.

Give it a go, but you may prefer a bar that has the same shape at the top but curves round closer to flat (or even slightly upward) at the end.

I certainly like that kind of shape, so I’ve got something to push against when honking out of the saddle.

Matt,

The bottom section of your bars should be parallel to the floor (or as near as dammit).

How tall are you? I’d wager your bars are too high, and your saddle is too high – this is a combination that’ll force you in to an upright position. Lower both, and try and stretch out more.

The bottom section of your bars should be parallel to the floor (or as near as dammit).

I don’t think this is true. Modern bars come in such a variety of shapes this would really curtail your fit options if it’s even possible.

I tweaked the bars on my new bike and the position I ended up with is pretty much the same as how it is in this pic, maybe rotated forwards a smidge:

The bottom section of your bars should be parallel to the floor (or as near as dammit).

The 90’s called and want their bike-fit back.

The 90’s called and want their bike-fit back

Out of order. In the 90s we actually looked at the rider on his bike before advising.

I have the same problem with reach to the levers. From experience a short reach and drop works best for me. I set my bars with an imaginary ball bearing in the open end that would slowly roll out. So,not parallel to the ground. Then hoods which would give as smooth a transition as possible from top of bar to top of hood.

The bottom section of your bars should be parallel to the floor (or as near as dammit).

So slightly worse than I had to start with?

I’ve only done one short ride so far. It feels a longer reach, however the drops and reach to levers is much better, my wrists also felt less ‘pulled’.

The bottom section of your bars should be parallel to the floor (or as near as dammit).

1. “ground” no need to thank me 🙂

2. I set mine with a bit of a tilt, perfectly flat means my wrist is bent uncomfortably on the flat section. But they aren’t compacts.

3. Not sure I would say everyone should have their bars set up a specific way, you can then get into stuff like KOPS which I don’t agree with.

An update.

The bars are better rolled up more and levers further around. I prefer them.

I am still not convinced that I have the ‘right’ shape of bar for me / my wrists. It is princess and pea stuff still – it feels that when I ride on the hoods it is a good pull forward. it feels a touch ‘odd’ to be in the drops, it pulls my arms in (too narrow? no flare?) and means the reach to the brake constantly feels a stretch in my hand.

Please recommend some other bars to try – I ride 80% road, less reach would still be good. Cheap too as I cannot spend dafty money trying out ideas.